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I took a 4 bolt main 350 to a machine shop once to have it bored .30 over, lined bored and the heads reworked and assembled. A few weeks later the engine blew up so I tore it down. I was shocked when I found out I got back a 2 bolt main engine with one cylinder .60 over 3 that were .30 over and the rest were standard bore The real kicker was there was a 2" long chunk of the block between #3 and #5 cylinders that had been broken out and filled in with weld and gound back into shape with a die grinder I was so fawking pissed, but I kept My cool and got ahold of the BBB and I got My money back plus extra for being hosed and losing out on My 4 bolt main 350.
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You gotta be real careful with some machine shops. I once took a factory steel crank into a machine shop, and they tried to give me back a cast iron one. Make sure you mark your stuff with a die grinder or punch before you take it in, and then tell them you have done this, so they will not get any bright ideas. Machine shops will usually only take advantage of people they think are not aware of what they have.
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READ THIS POST AGAIN AND AGAIN BEFORE YOU BRING ANY PARTS TO A MACHINE SHOP!!!
( I worked a few parts stores with machine shops--this guy is right!.I saw one guy bring in a 454 to one shop--he got back a 396 with a sleeve in the # 6 cylinder--the owner laughed as he counted the cash--seems he got the 396 for free when a garage swapped a targetmaster motor into a crew cab and the guy didnt want the core--he had the machine shop rebuild it,and they found a crack in the cylinder while boring it,so they stuffed it in a dark corner until the "right person" came along--I was quite amused when the 396 started steaming after its first long trip,and the owner of the truck sued them for damages over 5 grand to cover the loss of his 454 block and getting his truck back on the road with another motor! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
Not to say they are all bad--but a lot of shop do look for people who might not know the difference between a steel crank or a cast one--or a 366 instead of a 454--seen that too!.It best to mark your parts,and record the engine codes before they get shaved off when they deck the block--and write the BIG casting # down on the bellhousing too.I've seen busy shops give a customer the wrong motor accidently when they are doing a lot of similar engines at the same time.
And when junkyard hunting,ALWAYS check the codes against the Hollander book--you dont want to buy a 366 out of a school bus with 300,000 miles on it,thinking its a 454 or other desireable motor!.Dont assume a motor was a "new" replacement motor just because it has "Mr.Goodwrench" or "Target Master" valve covers--the covers are cheap at the dealer and fit nearly all small blocks,I think the stickers are available too--and those motors are mexican made by the way--even if it is a "real" one,they arent that great of a motor. As they say--Let the buyer beware! /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif