Junkyard AAM 14bff (factory disc) pinion question (bought it, pics added)

[Hogback Fabrication]

I don't know much about the crush sleeve eliminators...it makes me question the purpose of a crush sleeve and how the eliminator substitutes in there. I understand preload, but what else does a crush sleeve do and why ever use one if a spacer can work?

Axles (any make/model) are ~50/50 whether they use crush sleeves or shims.

Shims are better every time. The ONLY reason that crush sleeves exist is because they can be installed in one shot, with shims it's likely it will have to be assembled, measured, then changed. Repeat. Crush sleeves are simply exist to cut install time.

 

[JoshHefnerX]

@JoshHefnerX I just read some of your build. I'm glad I had my driveshaft fitted with 1350 u joints a while back (long story) so I can buy a conversion joint to 1410. I thought to check it but forgot. I'm also going with ord for tabs, perches, plates, and ubolts. I hear you with the old perches too. Those 3/8 perches burn through cut off discs in no time. My ebrake lines are a little rough but hopefully useable. My brake cables both run on the left so I hope I don't need to mod them. Did the rear brake line work out ok? I'll have to use my splitter and I hope it bolts up

The hydraulic line fit - however because the hardlines placed the T on the driver side whereas the 10bolt was on the passenger side, I had to get a much longer softline. With the 4" of lift and the moving of the T to the other side, I ended up getting I believe an 8" extended rear line. Got mine from Ord. Bolted right in. If you want to rebend the hard lines to move the T block you could get away w/ something shorter.

The e-brake lines are tough SOB's. and the best way I found to cut them is a cutoff wheel. Zips through nice and clean. As long as you got the plastic ends that were on that line, you should be able to cut them and reuse them.