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(Junkyard crawl) Found a Factory oil cooler, new Parker lines.

beags86

beags86

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Ok blazer guys,
I was doing my monthly Friday junkyard crawl and came up on a 91. It still has the factory sandwich oil cooler, lines, and cooler. It wouldn't be much in cost to grab it, prob under 50 bucks. Everything seems to be in good shape.
Should I grab it? I like the idea of running a cooler, I don't however think it's necessary for most of my needs. I do like the idea of the oil cooler. And I also like the idea of the extra capacity (an extra qt or two might be the difference of a hurt engine). I also don't like the idea of another failure point on my engine. (I.E. cut or broken lines or cooler) Similar kits go for around 125$. Would I need to change my oil filter threads for the sandwich adapter on a sbc 400?
Thoughts? Thanks.
 
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Id buy new for something like that..you dont know what kinda crap is in that cooler, cruded up oil, etc etc.
 
maybe the adaptor on the engine . and fyi the 2 bolts are allen head button and are required to swap it on a engine.

then buy new cooler and make 2 lines .

then you know its good / clean / bolt on adaptor .
 
sweetk30 said:
maybe the adaptor on the engine . and fyi the 2 bolts are allen head button and are required to swap it on a engine.

then buy new cooler and make 2 lines .

then you know its good / clean / bolt on adaptor .
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Ok I did not know that, I was hoping it was more then the oil filter threads.
 
easy swap in/out.

spin off filter.

remove 2 bolt factory spin on adaptor.

get new gasket / oring kit for oil cooler adaptor .

install with 2 allen button head bolts .

spin on filter and check for leaks .

some need to run shorter filter also if its close to exhaust down pipe on custom systems.
 
Ive always felt oil coolers were bad joo joo if not needed. Like you said, why add two hoses as failure points and the cooler if you really arent in a situation to need it.
 
Stomis said:
Ive always felt oil coolers were bad joo joo if not needed. Like you said, why add two hoses as failure points and the cooler if you really arent in a situation to need it.
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Yeah I am kind of on the fence of the NEED. I am currently rebuilding my 400, into a fire breathing-aluminum headed, full roller, 406 beast, I feel like my new setup might need some extra cooling, but that's really a different convo. Anyway I think I will grab the adaptor next week and go from there. If nothing else I will have it in the "just in case/future use" parts stash.
 
But if you have it cleaned, that adds to the cost. Gets you closer to a new one. Factory lines are not great, so why not get new, clean new ones built?

But , again, what is it doing? Does it really need a cooler?
 
6872xtc said:
But if you have it cleaned, that adds to the cost. Gets you closer to a new one. Factory lines are not great, so why not get new, clean new ones built?

But , again, what is it doing? Does it really need a cooler?
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Not sure if I need it yet, just going to grab the adaptor on Monday and if It runs hot with the new engine I will add it. Run an aftermarket cooler with some braided lines. Everyone knows the story's of the sbc 400, just want to make sure I don't waste my new engine. Just apprehensive that its going to run hot.
 
The story I know on the 400 is that both mine and my dad's run fine with the right tune. Don't be scared to experiment with the timing.
I have a temp gauge on my big block, and I can tell you that the temperature doesn't get very high quickly. Low speed like slow wheeling is where it makes the most heat for me. Still I think it is determined by what you are doing with it.
 
I have removed LOTS of oil coolers and eliminated them for customers.

Unnecessary.

Martin
 
82355 said:
I have removed LOTS of oil coolers and eliminated them for customers.

Unnecessary.

Martin
Click to expand...

Why did gm put these on k5s?

Well that's where this turns into a bigger conversation. What are someone's NEEDS?

I guess my question now turns into this.

Maybe it's not needed for a stock k5 or mildly built k5. But would it benefit my uses? Do I need it? Is the risk of another failure point worth the return?
All questions I don't know.

I do ask you a question. Are your customers running a legit 500bhp sbc 406, with a Dana 60/14b, pulling a toy hauler camper with two atvs and loaded down with camping gear while pulling 10,000ft mountain passes?

I doubt it. Everyone's needs are different. I will grab the the adapter and use it if I feel I can be fit from more cooling.
 
For towing I wouldn't think twice, install a good quality cooler with better than factory lines. Any line can fail, so I would get high quality lines to better your durability.
I still would play around with the timing to see what it likes. I have seen too many engines that didn't get good timing numbers and advance curves. That made a difference in engine temperature.
I am assuming that with that power level, you already know that a good water pump is also key. I had problems with a new one from Napa.
 
Ebke placed in Drag Week with his 427 screaming down the highway with no overdrive, and no oil cooler. You'll be alright.

Martin
 
6872xtc said:
For towing I wouldn't think twice, install a good quality cooler with better than factory lines. Any line can fail, so I would get high quality lines to better your durability.
I still would play around with the timing to see what it likes. I have seen too many engines that didn't get good timing numbers and advance curves. That made a difference in engine temperature.
I am assuming that with that power level, you already know that a good water pump is also key. I had problems with a new one from Napa.
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Yeah, I will for sure be playing with timing once my new mill is done. Just getting ready to buy a new ignition for it now, I have a idea of which way I want to go but nothing is bought yet. Same goes for my cooling system. I do have a nice rad for it but nothing in terms of fans or water pump. I will run new fans switched off the efi system and nice high quality water pump. I see it as I should spend my money wisely on the main system with the oil cooling system as secondary system.
Any suggestions on some high quality lines? The lines that averyajc used on his hydro assist come to my mind, I think he had got them local to him. I would have to check my local vendors to see if they have carry them or a equivalent. Or source them on the net.
 
I would suggest checking local shops, but also other sources. I have had good luck with my local Parker products store, but I have also used some stuff from Jeg's and Summit. If you use push-loc for the oil lines, spring for the higher temp rating. I have seen a longer service life on the mixers at my work with the higher temp stuff. When I ran a heavy wrecker, we always had good service out of Parker's lines.

As far as ignition, if you are not going with ECM controlled, take a look at MSD's E-curve distributor. I put one in my 406 in my 2wd. So far I really like it and the ease of adjustment. I don't have many miles on it though. The price is some what intimidating.
 
IMO run braided stainless or bust. Its not that expensive, you can service them yourself, theyre super rub/wear resistant on the exterior and carrying a roll of line can make it so you can field service any fitting on the truck that size.

I used to not like stainless braided stuff, but after successfully using it in a few applications I would take that over pushlok anything or crimped rubber lines any day of the week.



As far as needing the oil cooler, Im with Martin. Oil coolers come into play more so with diesels and some newer gas stuff when the oil is actually used to cool the combustion under the pistons. The oil is going to run the radiant temp of the engine. Keep the engine at the proper temp and the oil in turn will stay at the proper temp. The 400s running hot is a myth derived from people replacing the heads and no properly accommodating the steam holes.
 
6872xtc said:
I would suggest checking local shops, but also other sources. I have had good luck with my local Parker products store, but I have also used some stuff from Jeg's and Summit. If you use push-loc for the oil lines, spring for the higher temp rating. I have seen a longer service life on the mixers at my work with the higher temp stuff. When I ran a heavy wrecker, we always had good service out of Parker's lines.

As far as ignition, if you are not going with ECM controlled, take a look at MSD's E-curve distributor. I put one in my 406 in my 2wd. So far I really like it and the ease of adjustment. I don't have many miles on it though. The price is some what intimidating.
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I have used Parker before. Personally and for work. In fact they were the first place I was going to check tomorrow.

E-curve looks nice, I assume it will work with a 6A box?
 
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