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Just a word of caution regarding LMC

gonefishin said:
Not sure if it helps, but I normally drill a small hole at the end of a crack then weld it up
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This^. Stop drilling as it is called gives the crack a place "to go". It is standard practice in the aviation industry. I always drilled slightly ahead of the crack because the metal is usually cracked already but it's to small to see yet. I was not aware more folks don't know this. Always a good idea...
 
To save on the LMC shipping, a buddy and I ordered together. I needed a new tailgate window regulator and a few other things. I also ordered the little hard nylon rollers, just in case I could save my old regulator. What I got from them convinced me to repair the old regulator. I will have to keep what I ordered from them, but it will only be an extreme emergency that I will use it.
 
86caliblazer said:
I just wanted to let everyone know what happened to me regarding ordering parts from LMC. I am in the process of restoring my newly bought 86 k5 and converting the tailgate back to electric. The previous owner changed it from electric to a manual and I wanted it back to original.

So I went to LMC for all of the electric parts their catalog said I would need to make this change. So after I ordered all the parts LMC neglected to illustrate in their catalog that one major part you would need was the Jack screw transmission gear assembly, because with out this part for your "electric regulator" this whole change would not work. After my research and several calls to their customer service who by the way I had to educate on this part the conclusion was that LMC does not show this part because they 1 do not know about and 2 don't know where you can get it. So basically they sell you what is the full list of parts to make it electric but REALLY DOES NOT.

So just be aware that what their catalog says is what you need for a electric tailgate window is not everything you really need. Be ready for an additional cost and time in locating that part.
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Sounds like its time for a trip to the local junk yard/U pull it.
 
I know this is totally about the tailgate assembly. And this has turned into a complaint department about LMC. So here is mine. I Ordered a power window switch for my Jimmy. First time user. I received a used part. Now i thought when they advertised OEM i thought it came from a junkyard. They took care of it and replaced it with a new one cheap plastic. 2nd ordered a kick down, cable for my 700r4. Part was a cheap plastic replacement not of original quality. The damned thing stripped its teeth adjustment first time out. I never ordered again. But now i am finding myself wanting to convert my rear gate from electric to a manual.
 
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gonefishin said:
Not sure if it helps, but I normally drill a small hole at the end of a crack then weld it up
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Big Ray said:
This^. Stop drilling as it is called gives the crack a place "to go". It is standard practice in the aviation industry. I always drilled slightly ahead of the crack because the metal is usually cracked already but it's to small to see yet. I was not aware more folks don't know this. Always a good idea...
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I'll second what Big Ray said- stop drill it just beyond the end of where you can see the crack in the bare metal. Then weld it up, and you will have a better repair.
 
Has anyone had better luck with Brothers Tricks? I'm about to start a '56 Chevy pickup project and this topic interests me greatly.
 
Leisure said:
Has anyone had better luck with Brothers Tricks? I'm about to start a '56 Chevy pickup project and this topic interests me greatly.
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I've used both. Like somebody else said, LMC is a necessary evil for certain parts. Surf and you'll find somethings can be had for less. Brother's I've found does a lot of monthly sales but if you wait for them you can get some stuff at a good price. Price is comperable to LMC before the sales, shipping in some cases is thrown in free during specials except for oversized stuff.

We restored a 59 Chevy Apache fleetside truck a couple of years ago at work. A co-worker tipped me off to Brothers. We were doing a full blown frame off resto on this truck and needed a bunch despite this one being 100% complete. I ordered 90% of the parts from Brothers. Spent a mint with them really. When we were not sure on the rear plate bracket when used with a chrome deluxe rear bumper as they didn't list one for a 58/59 fleetside but did for the 60-66 fleetsides I called and asked about it. The guy I spoke to actually took the time to go pull the bracket and confirmed it would work. It's a little item, but the fact he took the time to physically confirm it was awesome. He was right too. Shipping wise, I found the big sheetmetal we ordered came in excellent packaging. We ordered both doors and each one came crated up and then mounted vertically to a small pallet. Not a scratch or ding on them. I'd use them again. The squarebody selection isn't as good as LMC, but it's growing.
 
BEAR VALLEY said:
My situation was idenical. In searching for a jack screw it took me 6 Mos to find a rebuilt one on cragslist. , the guy was asking almost 300.00. Outrageous . I went to manual. Then I found one in a wreaking yard. Turned out to be a very expensive tailgate project. LMC is simply a pars house, it is advised you know exactly what you need and investigate. If it don't show in their book I guess they believe it don't exsist....lol... My lesson was frustrating and $$$ . But they do have parts that are very hard to find. A catch 22.
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THE END OF THE JACK SCREW!!

Go to https://www.nu-relics.com/ and talk to Dusty about a direct drive regulator! This thing is amazing!

53B1860F-E60C-4AD2-869B-98A707522BDD.jpeg

A3E1AFFB-C878-48FC-805A-597CE8CCC3A5.jpeg
 
What is the price on that?

Do you think it's possible to take 2 stock regulators and make your own direct drive like that? (obviously a lot of cutting and welding involved).
 
Blue85 said:
What is the price on that?

Do you think it's possible to take 2 stock regulators and make your own direct drive like that? (obviously a lot of cutting and welding involved).
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No need for 2, just seat a motor on a gear of similar teeth pitch to replace jack screw. Anything is possible!
 
Does that motor work the same as factory - grounded through the case and positive on either of the plug connections?
 
This particular one needs a ground lead to the tailgate, not hard, there are bolts everywhere. I’m changing the switch to a milled version Nu-Relics has, this weekend’s project, so I’ll know more about the particular connectors. I’ve seen weatherpak connectors and old school connectors on different years...maybe somebody has experience with knowing which years had what?

FAF0E35A-1C7D-42E4-B494-FA026D92690E.jpeg
 
86caliblazer said:
Thank you, I was able to find the part after some research. Unfortunately it's one of those things where they know they have you over a barrel for it. I just to inform others on my experience with LMC on these parts.
Thank you
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I have heard, and read that Brothers is very bad.
 
I believe weatherpack started right around '84 or '85 for the rear window.

What does that motor take for a plug? The original round one? And as already asked, what was the price?
 
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