just got a 77 K-10 yesterday- pass side dana 44 spindle ?

[R72K5]

anyoen know right off hand if the 77 dana 44 spindles on the k-10's were flat top ?

just picked up a good running stock factory unmolested original '77 k-10 cheyenne longfleet with 400sb TLS and th350 and 44/12 axles and 33" and alot of new parts such as alternator and tranny and power steering pump, aftermarket aluminum 15x10 wheels, etc, what i gave for the truck is what just the 400 engine alone is worth, so i basically stole the truck in all reality, it runs and drives great except for the steering slop, so thats what this thread is related to


i like the truck alot and it only needs a few minor things done to it to make it all perfect

it needs new drag link ends to take care of this typical steering slop,

but i would just go ahead with a crossover if the pass side spindle is flat top- in which is what i understand is what is requird in order to do this conversion ? no ?



unless theres another way to connect the tie rod to the spindle- other than by bolting a plate to the spindle top ? pics ? part numbers ?


what rod do you get that is the right length from the pitman to the spindle ?

anyone know of any links to any writeups to do the X over swap using factory/stock parts,
really all im unsure/stuck on is what rod tube to use from the pitman arm to the pass side spindle, and the ends


what do you guys use? are there any stock application ones that are the length that works ?

im only considering the X over since i already have a 2wd sector shaft and pitman arm on an 81 pickup out here, and since the cost either replacing the drag link, or going to X over will be really close to the same- if i can use stock parts that is

the cost of the good replacement link ends are 60 a piece at advance auto and such, thats pretty crazy, really think i could go to x over for the same amount or damn near it, by using a stock rod, if i can figure out which you use?

otherwise what are the part numbers for stock replacement drag link ends and sleeve for a 77 k10 ?

thanks for anything

 

[thatK30guy]

Just to correct you, its not the spindle you are asking about. Its the knuckle as the spindle is what the bearing hub spins on and the spindle also is bolted to the knuckle. The knuckle is what pivots and allows steering ability.

 

[neverendingproject]

Maybe, but prolly not. this link will hep on identification. http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/flatop_knucles.html 77 was the last year. Also, crossover is not something that you want to be cheap about, you will get what you payfor and depending on if you buy or make the stuff will determine the cost. I bought ball joints and 4 tre's along with a pitman arm for about 350 or so. another 30-75 for the machining of the knuckle, so It can add up pretty quick. I know alot of guys buy thier draglinks but i will be making mine, so that cuts cost.

 

[R72K5]

ok knuckle yep


so on a cross over the draglink is the rod that you run from the 2wd pitman arm over to the pass side knuckle

right?

thats really all im stuck at, is with that, where how to get/make one ?

i heard that stock 80s rod is good for doing the crossover rod ?

but then still also stuck on attaching the rod end to the knuckle

im having a hard time justifying spending around 60 bucks a rod end(the stock links ends)

i dont plan on doing balljoints or anything else

just steering rods stuff only,

thanks

 

[neverendingproject]

You will still have to get the rod bent to clear the crossmember, and I would buy new rod ends for peace of mind.

 

[mouse]

Although a possibility, I doubt its got the flat top knuckle. It seems the later years are harder to find.

 

[Beast388]

My '77 D44 did NOT have flat top knuckles......but I saved the flat tops off of my '71 D44 and used them.

 

[R72K5]

hum, well thats crappy then, cant say it rained on my parade, cuz well its been rainign for over a day now, non stop.....

boo!

i guess il have to fork 120+ bucks over for a draglink

as i dont know any other way- with here where i am located,

and i dont want to buy mcquay norris cheap stuff

unless thats not actually cheap junk ?

is that brand actually ok, or not ?

i think ive heard both ways in the past

who knows what about this?

we have napa and auto zone and o reilly auto stores here and no others

if theres anything you know about this then lemme know

part numbers even ?

for stock factory '77 k-10 pickup

want ot fix it ASAP, then all i have left to do is get fuel guage working again and get the door glass replacement job done, and maybe find another cargo lamp lense and harness, oh and turn signal switch assembly, in which ive started on already also, then thats virtually it

where do you find a cargo lamp lense and the orange/white wire bulbs sockets harness that runs from the cab corner up the pillar to the lamps ?

thanks

 

[R72K5]

well my slop is in the front drag link end, it is shot,

and it seems no one knows anything about the brands and quality of these things these days, cuz no one is replying

so i guess im stuck with getting whatever the local O Reilly store has


cuz i need to get this fixed now, while its not raining

for once


hope i dont end up with a piece of junk link end


thanks

 

[YZEATER]

just go to the parts store and buy stock replacement stuff, usually it'll have a warranty. it'll also be better then what you got right now.

how do you over 8700 posts and not know anything about stock steering on one of the most popular trucks/ drivetrain here?

 

[R72K5]

20 bucks at O Reilly auto parts! lol, housebrand

it was that or moog for 40 something

i asked what the housebrand was and he said its just a reboxed one, box for the store,

so i got it


got like hardly any slop at all in the steering now

thanks

 

[R72K5]

YZEATER, thanks, well i know how 4x4's work and everything, im not a noob to them but im not extremely experienced with them either,

i was just had some Q's regarding the current market stock replacement steering parts brands and qualities, since it seems it change every day or week, with merges and other stuff, etc



what kind of Q was that? you having a bad day over there or something ??

im sorry that ive had very little experience with 4x4's and that they are so uncommon here, i cant do anything ot fix that, but at least i have a daily driver 4x4 now, only the second one ive ever had, and the last one was quite a while back, couple years or little more, theyre just hard to get a hold of here, not many to see,
thats why i snatched this one up immediately when i found out it was for sale, such a vehicle is a once in a long time chance around here,


thanks

 

[diesel4me]

Welcome back!..

Congrats on the new ride!...good to see you posting here again..!My 74 K20 actually started out as a 77 K10,and it mutated into a 74--used an older 2wd cab,and the 77 frame,86 K20 axles,doors,and bed..I put a 400 in it from a 79 burb..sadly,the truck was too rotted to fix anymore, its now in China being recycled into Kia's or whatever..

I just sold the 400 motor yesterday for 150 bucks,(an insult,it was worth more! )--so I can keep my car insurance paid for the month..still need to figure out how to pay for 3 inspection stickers for 3 vehicles--one expired in Jan,other two due by next month!..

I usually buy the "cheep" generic brand parts now..I used to be anal and buy only Moog ball joints,etc..but I have seen several of their tie rods and ball joints fail in only 6 months time here in the past few years,ones my friend replaced on customers cars at his shop..low mileage too!..
I think ALL brands have an equal chance at being good,or crap now..the name is all your paying for, as far as quality,well,they could be China made like all the rest nowadays..

I sold Mquay-Norris brand front end parts for a long time..they were one of the top names,as was Moog,TRW,Perfect Circle,Spicer...now its a toss up as to who's parts are better,so much is farmed out to subcontractors overseas..
I have had cars I put Auto Zone's cheapest tie rods and ball joints in last 5 years and still feel tight as the day they went in,and the prices were not just 10-20 bucks less,I'm talking the difference of 30 bucks PER ball joint! --the Moogs that failed early had a 6 month warranty--the Auto Zone cheapies were lifetime gaurantee!..

 

[R72K5]

Congrats on the new ride!...good to see you posting here again..!My 74 K20 actually started out as a 77 K10,and it mutated into a 74--used an older 2wd cab,and the 77 frame,86 K20 axles,doors,and bed..I put a 400 in it from a 79 burb..sadly,the truck was too rotted to fix anymore, its now in China being recycled into Kia's or whatever..

I just sold the 400 motor yesterday for 150 bucks,(an insult,it was worth more! )--so I can keep my car insurance paid for the month..still need to figure out how to pay for 3 inspection stickers for 3 vehicles--one expired in Jan,other two due by next month!..

I usually buy the "cheep" generic brand parts now..I used to be anal and buy only Moog ball joints,etc..but I have seen several of their tie rods and ball joints fail in only 6 months time here in the past few years,ones my friend replaced on customers cars at his shop..low mileage too!..
I think ALL brands have an equal chance at being good,or crap now..the name is all your paying for, as far as quality,well,they could be China made like all the rest nowadays..

I sold Mquay-Norris brand front end parts for a long time..they were one of the top names,as was Moog,TRW,Perfect Circle,Spicer...now its a toss up as to who's parts are better,so much is farmed out to subcontractors overseas..
I have had cars I put Auto Zone's cheapest tie rods and ball joints in last 5 years and still feel tight as the day they went in,and the prices were not just 10-20 bucks less,I'm talking the difference of 30 bucks PER ball joint! --the Moogs that failed early had a 6 month warranty--the Auto Zone cheapies were lifetime gaurantee!..

hey man thanks hows it been going there ?

kia's lol, good one :P

poor truck, RIP, but it happens

so sold the 400 for just a bill and a half ? wow, thats kinda crazy lol :P


good info on the brand and such, good to hear that someone is using house brand parts and such and having no problem with them

good deal

its not worth fretting over, everything seems good and its got nice steering now, all better and thats what counts,


the only one time i recall ever buying steering joints parts that were junk was when i bought some for a `68 to `71/`72 c-10 disc brake conversion project
-i got the ones in the JC Whitney catalog


that was a bad choice, they ended up getting returned

even the boots were rotted, let alone the joints being crappy


thanks again, lemme know how its been going
here its been work sleep eat and nothing else until recently when i got laid off from the plant for a bit(thank god, so i can maybe catch up on some things around here possibly)

peace out
R