Just picked up my 14 bolt, few questions

[Fry]

How can I tell limited slip or not from looking in the carrier?

I gotta pick up a conversion u-joint, 1330-1350 is what the general consensus of the board but have seen a few posts about a spicer 44 or something. I don't have a napa around here so the 447 part number doesn't mean anything. Where does the 1350, 1330 numbers come from? Theres a driveshaft guy who sells awesome heavy duty joints here but usually only compares the joint to the old one. Will he know what the 1330-1350 means, hes a little slow and doesn't speak good english but has truely great u-joints.

What else should I look for while its waiting to go in the truck, I don't want to spend very much money but want to go through the diff quickly before it goes in this week, any specific areas I should look for?

Oh yeah it a FF 4.10 cost about $100 in us dollars

 

[heavy4x4]

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How can I tell limited slip or not from looking in the carrier?


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Where the two carrier halves go together (held by the ring gear bolts), spin the carrier and count the number of cross-shaft ends you can see (if you're confused, don't worry...you'll understand when you look at it). 4 cross shafts and it's an open rear, 3 and you've got a gov-lock (limited slip).


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I gotta pick up a conversion u-joint, 1330-1350 is what the general consensus of the board but have seen a few posts about a spicer 44 or something. I don't have a napa around here so the 447 part number doesn't mean anything. Where does the 1350, 1330 numbers come from? Theres a driveshaft guy who sells awesome heavy duty joints here but usually only compares the joint to the old one. Will he know what the 1330-1350 means, hes a little slow and doesn't speak good english but has truely great u-joints.


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Okay, if you're replacing a 10 bolt then yes, it is that odd size you're talking about...something like R44. The 1330 is the same cap size, but the width is just a little too long...you'll have trouble getting the locking clips in. I'm pretty sure 1310, 1330, etc are spicer numbers.

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What else should I look for while its waiting to go in the truck, I don't want to spend very much money but want to go through the diff quickly before it goes in this week, any specific areas I should look for?


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Take a pry bar or just your hands even and grab onto the ring gear. Shake back and forth, up and down. There should be no play. This is a pretty crude, non-exact method, but bad carrier bearings will indeed show play by doing this. If they're bad, they'll need replacing. Do the same thing by grabbing onto the pinion yoke. Twisting action there can be a little slop, but should be no slop up and down, in and out. Then, just check the obvious like busted gear teeth, bad metal shavings in the diff, etc. And, you'll want to look at the bearings and brakes to make sure they're in good shape.


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Oh yeah it a FF 4.10 cost about $100 in us dollars

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You suck. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

 

[rockink5]

An open carrier will have two pins crossing each other to hold the spider gears, 4 ends visable around the carrier.

A Gov-lok will only have three ends visable around the carrier.
1330 and 1350 are spicer part #s

 

[Fry]

yeah I'm replacing with a 10 bolt.
Thanks for all the help.
I could have picked up a matching front diff for an extra $75 but it was the 1st gen and I just bought new warn premiums for my 1/2 ton 44 and didn't want to see them go to waste. This 3/4 ton diff had spicers on it though but the front diff was all gummed up.
Thanks for the quick responses.
The machine shop/ driveshaft guy sells spicer so he should know the numbers
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