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just stop it

fishnk5

fishnk5

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tabernash co
O K i am getting a couple of answers on whether to replace my proportioning valve on my 72 K5. D60f 14B rear with disc brake conversion. i have heard that my front disc brakes are large and my rear disk are fairly small and may or may not need a disc/disc style proportioning valve. answers anyone and maybe a source for parts?
 
I have got an 85 short bed with d60 and 70 with disc all the way around, stock 85 master cylinder and stock disc /drum proportioning valve , and it works great, also a 02 silverado ,d60 14bolt combo and 4 whl disc,with a 85 chevy master cylinder and a disc /disc proportioning valve, and it works great
 
I'm with ya bud. I'm in the middle of this myself. I've tried to do research beforehand, but you get everything from 'works fine' to 'replace master/prop valve and re-plumb brakes'. I finally decided just to go ahead with the 1 ton/disc swap and change the hydraulics as I see fit.
 
Dana 60 front 14 with 1/2 ton calipers. Stops on a dime. Saying a lot for a truck with 40s.
 
When I did the disc conversion in my K5 I changed nothing on the truck but the hose. Stopped on a dime.
 
mine was originally drum front and rear, changed axles to 14 bolt with disc and 3/4 ton ten bolt with disc and put 1 ton master cylinder on adjustable proportioning valve and a residual pressure valve in the line to the rear. A little experimentation and it works very well.

I ordered the valves from jegs if I remember correctly. I was told that the drum brake lines could allow the discs to back off too far and that could cause air in the lines. :dunno: so it needed the residual pressure valve. Anyway they work great.
 
A question for you guys that have a bad pedal feel.

Did you bleed them the old manual way? Somebody sitting in the truck and pumping the pedal?

If so, this simply won't get it done in my experience.
 
cybrfire said:
A question for you guys that a bad pedal feel.

Did you bleed them the old manual way? Somebody sitting in the truck and pumping the pedal?

If so, this simply won't get it done in my experience.
Click to expand...

x2 I had to buy a power bleeder to get mine done.
 
jekquistk5 said:
x2 I had to buy a power bleeder to get mine done.
Click to expand...


Kinda odd to. Plenty of brake fluid coming out of the bleeders. No air whatsoever but there is air in the lines. Its just not moving toward the bleeders.

The power bleeder solves all of that and after you use it, you'll wonder why you ever bled them the old way.
 
70jimmy said:
my bleeders are pointed up so they took them off the rotors, put a spacer in between the pads and bled them with the bleeders pointing down.
Click to expand...


That would be a problem. Bleeders should point up and should be bled pointing up. Air goes up to the top in the fluid in the caliper piston bore.
 
Ok maybe I had it backwards, yep thinking about it the bleeders on the back to point down. I remember seeing the calipers sitting on top of the rotors with the spacer in the pads.

It was 7 years ago so memory is a little fuzzy.
 
The power bleeders are cool, but I already have a vacuum pump that is also a transfer pump/bleeder. In principle, it should work the same - High pressure at reservoir (atmospheric, in this case) pushes fluid to a lower pressure (vacuum, in this case) at the bleeder. Anyway, figure I'll give it a shot.
 
I have only done about mmmmm 500 or more brake jobs over the years and done easily 50 or more disc conversion on different trucks,, 'the old manuel way' of bleeding brakes is still a good way to do brakes,, theres usually a reason you dont have good brakes, master cylinder on proportioning valve calipper problems,
or so other kind of thing,,
 
Don't forget on some trucks the calipers will fit on the wrong side just fine, but the bleeder will be on the bottom and you will never get the air out.

You have to swap them left to right.
 
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