Just when I think I have my steering bugs all worked out...

[75GmcJimmy4x4]

my death wobble got started after i had new wheels put on and the shop told me they couldn't ballance the tires cause they were too big.... so on the way home when i hit 35 or so it started shaking hard... i guess i got to get that ballance done asap at a real 4x4 shop ... kinda sucks they charge 12 a wheel ....

 

[75GmcJimmy4x4]

I got a 10 bolt and have mad death wobble always have i have just delt with it and tried to fix it. Im now doing cross over and all new ball joints and then having it aligned by a pro.Mine does it at the same speed as you're truck and it always seems people drive the perfect speed to cause it. Best trick i have done run less air in front it helps a ton. My pinion points down and i think it does to much i herd 3 to 5 deg is the correct caster. But i dont really see a good spot to check I.E. why im going to take it to a pro and then buy the right shim and install it.
1. I tried new shackles and the bigger frame bushings also nothing has worked except the air pressure.
2.Also different springs in front
3.New tie rod
4.New drag link

how much air pressure are you talking

 

[mr.smartass]

Ended up wheeling instead of fixing things. Never went into full DW on the way over to the spot though...

I balanced the tires with airsoft pellets when I mounted them, then I had a shop transfer the tires over to my 8lug rims and they were supposed to keep the pellets in but I haven't noticed my morocco sound so I might have to dump more in myself.

 

[mnstrburbon]

how much air pressure are you talking

my iroks say a max of 25 yes 25 psi they are byas i run 20 in the rear and 15 or 12 in the front.


What ever you are at know drop 5 and drive it repeat till you see a differance and go up or down.
Also i noticed if it starts and i see saw the whell slowly side to side like a turn i can fight it off most times.
Accelerating out of it works on my rig also.
I just installed the cross over it seems to do it less but i noticed before the cross over it woudl do it and the steeringwheel would not move much, Now it shakes back and forth. Im guessing do to the axle and steering moving in the same direction now.

 

[mnstrburbon]

Ended up wheeling instead of fixing things. Never went into full DW on the way over to the spot though...

I balanced the tires with airsoft pellets when I mounted them, then I had a shop transfer the tires over to my 8lug rims and they were supposed to keep the pellets in but I haven't noticed my morocco sound so I might have to dump more in myself.

I am also using the the pellets in my tires.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

The Airsoft pellets are good stuff if the tires are "round" enough that they don't need fine balancing. I have them in my Michelins.

 

[mr.smartass]

Bump, I've just been living with this for a while. I have a new idea... back when I assembled the D44 front I did not properly set the preload on the upper ball joints, I installed the screw in sleeve without the ball joints in there... shouldn't the joints be sticking through when you tighten the sleeve down? So with basically no preload couldn't this be the problem? Seems like when people have issues with their D60's and DW it's usually preload on the upper king pin. Thoughts? Thanks.

 

[Stomis]

Bump, I've just been living with this for a while. I have a new idea... back when I assembled the D44 front I did not properly set the preload on the upper ball joints, I installed the screw in sleeve without the ball joints in there... shouldn't the joints be sticking through when you tighten the sleeve down? So with basically no preload couldn't this be the problem? Seems like when people have issues with their D60's and DW it's usually preload on the upper king pin. Thoughts? Thanks.

Was thinking that while re-reading through this.

Theres a very specific method to doing balljoint preload and torque but I dont remember it.

 

[mr.smartass]

Yeah I'm not sure what I was thinking when I did it, but I torqued the preload sleeve down to 45ft lbs as per the guide I was using and was confused as to why the thing stuck so far through the "C", so I backed it out flush and assembled it.

So if I disassemble and resassemble the uppers correctly I'm hoping that'll fix it... not sure if I need new parts or not though... I barely drive the truck.

 

[rufusbooth]

, so I backed it out flush and assembled it.

So if I disassemble and resassemble the uppers correctly I'm hoping that'll fix it... not sure if I need new parts or not though... I barely drive the truck.

I would just about put $ on that being your problem. Make sure you break loose the upper joint from the adjuster sleeve before trying to adjust it or you will never get it to turn. You might end up having to replace the ball joints. They don't take too kind to being out of adjustment. Once you get them loose move them around and see if they are still tight. If they have loosened up, replace them.

Cheers,

Rufus

 

[AJMBLAZER]

Random factoid but that weird socket you need to get the ball joints out of a D44/10 bolt can still be gotten from NAPA. It's in their big tool catalog.

Ran into that last fall while doing mine.

 

[Kenny78]

Or O'reilly's. I think its about $20 or you can make one from instructions on the forum.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

We had a homemade one and it didn't work well. Got the actual one and viola, worked great.

I've only lived in a place where O'Reilly's existed for 6 months now. Only visited twice and never bought anything.

 

[BBC]

i had the exact same problem when i did my x-over/52" spring swap on my 10b. i had the dw around 30 mph or so. i ended up throwing some shims under the springs and it helped out a ton. i can kinda still feel it wobble just a touch, but it doesn't shake the fillings out of your teeth. i am running a longer shackle so i'm going to try to tie them together one of these hot summer days

good luck getting rid of that dw.

 

[thatK30guy]

track bar.....I know it sucks but its reality, only way mine would stop wobbling and mine was BAD just like yours. As soon as the track bar went on, it stopped 100% ,out of everything that is the best upgrade by far on my truck.......do you happen to have 52's in the front?

Or panhard bar.

If you can get ahold of dcubb to make one of his infamous engine crossmembers, get the whole shebang from him to install the panhard bar. Doing so will have to eliminate the sway bar but the DW will likely be gone if you do this swap.

 

[mnstrburbon]

Twisted engineering makes a cross member and pan hard bar kit check my build or look in the vendor section. I have the cross-member with the tabs for a pan hard just have not ordered the pan hard kit yet. The dcubb ones is good but waiting 2 years or more is not very piratical the twisted product you will have at you're door in a week or less.

 

[mr.smartass]

Alright so I got the adjusting sleeves out and then retorqued them a little above spec, guide I had said 50 ft lbs I went to 60-70, then retorqued the upper ball joint nut to about 120 instead of 100, just wanted to make sure I had them on good especially since they have a few miles on them already.

Took it for a test drive and drove at the most annoying speeds, 20-40mph,
never did get it to break lose into full on crap your pants dw.

I could still feel that little underlying movement like it wanted to start but never could make it start so it's an improvement but I think I'm going to throw some air soft pellets in the tires next. I shook my tires when I had them off and heard nothing, apparently they didn't make the transition over to my 8-lug rims.

So maybe it's been a lot of different things adding up to give me the shakes. Thanks guys. I'll let yall know if balancing helps.

 

[mr.smartass]

So I broke one tire down to throw some pellets in and found out there actually is some type of balancing media in there, it's just these tiny clear plastic beads, the size of grains of sand. I'm not sure how much is in there though, so I went ahead and added my 11oz of air soft pellets anyways.

It didn't go smoothly so I only ended up with the one tire done, but I thought I'd go ahead and tire the tire pressure idea, they were all at 35 psi, bumped them all down to 20 and didn't notice any difference.

So after I get the rest of the tires done, does anyone else have any more ideas?