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k10 getting a new transmission, need some information

ciffer

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the transmission on the k10 finally died. it lost everything but first and reverse.

i have a spare late-87 700r4 sitting around with a shift kit and a heavy duty servo installed. to the best of my knowledge, the transmission works great, assuming i did everything correctly with the shift kit.

i am going to install the spare into the 85 k10 and pray that it works. i have not changed a transmission before but i am no stranger to the greasy side of trucks.

here is my understanding on the step by step.

remove driveshafts and disconnect shift linkages, tv cable, speedo cable etc.

unbolt transfer case from transmission

remove cross member and remove transfer case

unbolt transmission and remove transmission from engine.

here are my questions.

1. what do i need to do with the torque converter?
2. did i miss anything on the step-by-step?
3. is there anything i need, or need to do to prepare, parts, tools, etc.
 
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you need to unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate. it sould come out as an assembly with the transmission.

Jack stand to support the engine when you remove the T-case and crossmember is helpful.

Once you get the t-case out of the way, you can sit behind the transmission and see the bellhousing bolts on top. A very long extension makes it a breeze to get to the top 2 bolts of the bellhousing out without tearing up your arm.
 
both driveshafts are out now, the bolts for the crossmember are loosened. i have having trouble getting the 4 bolts that hold the transfer case to the transmission loose. i soaked them in PB blaster before heading into work today, hopefully that will help me get them loose tomorrow.

this may be a dumb questions, but what is the correct size for those 4 bolts? i can't keep straight which bolts are SAE and which are metric on these trucks.
 
when installing the new trans be sure to flush the trans lines out with trans flush in a can. The can hooks up to one of the lines and blows a foamy rinse through the lines and cooler.
 
is there anything i need to do with the torque converter, or is that a direct swap over to the newer transmission?

any idea on the bolt size?
 
I would only use that convertor if the pan in the tranny your taking out is free of steel particles, and has good clean fluid. You can check end play in it with a dial indicator and make sure the input splined shaft only turns in one direction.
Better yet how many miles on it? maybe you should save some grief and replace it.
 
transfer case is unbolted from transmission, cross member is loosened from frame. i'll take out the transfer case and the transmission tomorrow when i've got some help.

any tips on unhooking and lowering them safely?
 
i'm in the process of doing yet another transmission swap in my Burb, i always remove the 6 bolts from the t-case and adapter, drop the transfer case first, so i can leave the crossmember in place to hold the rear of the trans up. then go about loosening all the bolts for removal of transmission, set jack up under trans, relieve weight, remove the crossmember, remove all loosened bolts and drop trans.

as far as reinstal, raise the trans up, align it up to motor, install a few bolts in bellhousing, then reinstall crossmember, tighten everything up, "benchpress" the transfer case up to the output shaft of the trans, set it on it's spot, and then you can rotate the t-case to line up the holes for the bolts.

honestly i think raising the trans is more difficult than lifting the t-case unless you have an old iron unit. :crazy:
 
i'm in the process of doing yet another transmission swap in my Burb, i always remove the 6 bolts from the t-case and adapter, drop the transfer case first, so i can leave the crossmember in place to hold the rear of the trans up. then go about loosening all the bolts for removal of transmission, set jack up under trans, relieve weight, remove the crossmember, remove all loosened bolts and drop trans.

as far as reinstal, raise the trans up, align it up to motor, install a few bolts in bellhousing, then reinstall crossmember, tighten everything up, "benchpress" the transfer case up to the output shaft of the trans, set it on it's spot, and then you can rotate the t-case to line up the holes for the bolts.

honestly i think raising the trans is more difficult than lifting the t-case unless you have an old iron unit. :crazy:

i can unbolt the 6 bolts on the transfer case side instead of the 4 on the transmission side? i had all 6 of those loosened, then thought that was part of the transfer case's case. i got the 4 bolts out now but 2 of them gave me the biggest fight i've had in years.

i have a few extra jack stands, i'll use them to support the rear of the engine and the rear of the transmission.

the woman that owns the k10 will be helping me tomorrow, and possibly another friend. i am hoping to have the transfer case and transmission removed and replaced tomorrow.

anything i need to do with the jack stands being used to support the transmission, engine etc. other than supporting the weight of the part?
 
the transmission and transfer case came put yesterday. everything is now back in, just need to hook up a few things, fill the fluids and hope for the best.

fun fact about the transmission swap is that i did all the work with the wheels on the ground, only time the vehicle was jacked was to raise the passenger side frame rail up 2 inches to get the transmission out/back in.

the torque converter had a sticker saying something to the effect of "remanufactured for general motors". this makes me think that the torque converter has been replaced, meaning that it has less than 134k on it.
 

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