K10 upgrade --> 3/4 leafs and 2" lift?

[JoeliusZ28]

Hey all,

If all goes to plan, I'm looking at doing a 2" lift on my all-stock, LWB K10. At the same time, I'd like to swap to a 14-bolt rear axle and add a little spring to increase the tow/haul capacity. The main issue is that it seems like they don't make 3/4 ton lift springs. I can't seem to find a good source of info on what the factory spring rates and ride heights are so that I can determine what parts i can mix and match to accomplish 2" lift and increase my towing capacity. I'd like to avoid using blocks if possible. I am open to the shackle flip method but concerned that I'll unintentionally end up with 3.5" lift in the rear vs 2" in the front if I mix that with a 3/4 ton spring. Also open to going with custom springs but only if there isn't a more affordable way to accomplish what I need.

Has anyone been down this road before that can offer recommendations?

 

[CK10]

Tuff country makes 56" lift springs for K20s, check ORDs website they have plenty of options for you

 

[Bent77]

For spring rate stuff look up "the suspension king"
They have spring rates, lengths, spring counts...

 

[Vombrown]

Are you also going to 8 lug? I was thinking of this very thing but want to keep the 6 lug stock pattern. Just want to ditch the 10 bolt. Some of the late 88-89 Chevy trucks have the smaller semi float 14 bolt in six lug. They bolt right in to our trucks.

 

[JoeliusZ28]

Are you also going to 8 lug? I was thinking of this very thing but want to keep the 6 lug stock pattern. Just want to ditch the 10 bolt. Some of the late 88-89 Chevy trucks have the smaller semi float 14 bolt in six lug. They bolt right in to our trucks.

I am planning on building a 6-lug frankenstein 14-bolt SF so I can keep my factory wheels/appearance. The 88-98 version doesn't quite bolt right up, the perches need to be modified. My plan is to get a square body 14 bolt SF, and use the 88-98 axles with a spacer, its described in one of the current threads in this section. My other primary motivation for doing this is correcting the track width in the rear.

Tuff country makes 56" lift springs for K20s, check ORDs website they have plenty of options for you

Well I admit I completely overlooked the fact that they have 3/4 ton springs, but ORD only lists them 4" and 6" lift. Tuff Country's website doesn't even mention 3/4 rated springs.

For spring rate stuff look up "the suspension king"
They have spring rates, lengths, spring counts...

good resource, thank you!

 

[JoeliusZ28]

Anyone? Considering just doing the half ton springs and adding helper bags. Might be better anyway for both articulation and towing.

 

[Vombrown]

Anyone? Considering just doing the half ton springs and adding helper bags. Might be better anyway for both articulation and towing.

They certainly work, until they don't. Check them before towing. I have had mixed results with them. Here where gravel roads are the majority of what we drive on they don't seem to last long before a puncture develops.

 

[CK10]

I wouldn't be too concerned about using a good set of 2" blocks on a truck that is primarily used on road to tow and just swapping to stock 56" springs of your choice (there were a variety of different ones based on truck options). Lots of new 3/4 and 1 ton trucks come from the factory with blocks in the rear.

 

[JoeliusZ28]

My concern with blocks is wheel hop... the truck already wheel hops as it is without blocks. I know a stiffer spring would help counter act that, but im just not a fan of them. But youre right, 2" isn't really a whole lot of added leverage vs a 4" or 6" block.

Truck is "all purpose" - fair weather cruiser, light offroader, and part time workhorse. Probably only driven 3k miles a year.