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k20 vs. k5

resurrected_jimmy said:
MOGULMASHER...... when you get tired of that K20 let me know. I got a nice warm, dry place for it to sleep at night. That is a sweet truck
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Thanks for the kind words man! Might be getting a little sick of when gas goes back over $3/gallon this summer:(, unless I go forward with the diesel swap I'm thinking about!:D
 
bowtiepower00 said:
Articulation has little to do with wheelbase. It's all about spring rate and shock length. Lots of flexy leaf sprung rigs on here, both SWB and LWB.
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You couldnt be more wrong... Springs/ shocks play a huge role but so does wheelbase. Because of the length, whatever happens on one end is magnified on the other. Like a pivot arm, the farther away you get, the more movement. So you need less movement to flex the same amount.

This is specificly why on an rti ramp you figure in wheel base. An rti score of 1000 for a rig that has a 105" wheel base flexs less than a rig that scores 1000 on the same ramp with a 131" wheelbase
 
Yes, to some extent it does, especially on a built rig. However, (I assume) we are talking about a bolt-on leaf suspension in this situation. If you're putting a standard bolt on leaf suspension on a GM truck, you're not going to see a large difference between a K5 or K20 LWB.

This really didn't sound like a Center Of Gravity question, but more of a general Garage question.

Really, for most of the wheeling out there, the average joe isn't going to see a large amount of difference between wheelbases- one isn't going to work signifigantly better than the other for most things. It's all going to be preference.

If we're talking about the hardcore guys that build and thrash their rigs HARD and that care about building link suspensions, etc., then yes, it will all figure into the big picture.

IMO, things like weight reduction, and building a balanced drivetrain that isn't going to break all of the time are more important than WB.
 
bowtiepower00 said:
Yes, to some extent it does, especially on a built rig. However, (I assume) we are talking about a bolt-on leaf suspension in this situation. If you're putting a standard bolt on leaf suspension on a GM truck, you're not going to see a large difference between a K5 or K20 LWB.

This really didn't sound like a Center Of Gravity question, but more of a general Garage question.

Really, for most of the wheeling out there, the average joe isn't going to see a large amount of difference between wheelbases- one isn't going to work signifigantly better than the other for most things. It's all going to be preference.

If we're talking about the hardcore guys that build and thrash their rigs HARD and that care about building link suspensions, etc., then yes, it will all figure into the big picture.

IMO, things like weight reduction, and building a balanced drivetrain that isn't going to break all of the time are more important than WB.
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A long bed pickup will weigh almost as much as a K5. My K5 comes in at around 5500# anyone know how much a K20 LWB weighs?

Ira
 
Ya, I am deinatly a begging wheeler. I mean i have screwing around experiance, but i have never had a truck that I could beat on. So now, i am going to have something that I can thrash and not really care about.

So no, i doubt that I will know the differance between driving a K20 LWB and a K5. I mean I will be attempting extreme stuff, because that is what I am building it for.

It will have bolt on leaf springs. I am looking for 6's of lift, so what is the best way to get the most articulation with this set up? I will have sway ba disconects too.
 
sandawgk5 said:
A long bed pickup will weigh almost as much as a K5. My K5 comes in at around 5500# anyone know how much a K20 LWB weighs?

Ira
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I have a REALLY hard time beleive that they will weigh the same. I know that my 2003 Ext. Cab SB silverado 2500 comes in around 7500#. And those old trucks are just heavy I think.

I would imagine that I am probably wrong though.

Zach
 
Take a look over at ORD and DIY4X, they both have lots of great products.

A set of Tuff Country EZ-Rides, and a rear flip would work great. Add a 1" BL to make wrenching easier. 3/4 ton axles with a rear locker.

Lots of build threads on here, just start digging and you'll find what you're looking for. You don't need to spend a ton of money to have a capable rig.

Start with the body style you like the most. Keep in mind though that a K5 is going to get a lot of body damage if you're wheeling it hard. Nothing a little armor won't fix, but then you're adding weight.

The earlier rigs are typically lighter than the new ones. All of the safety stuff and fluff adds up quickly. The new 3/4 ton rigs also have bigger heavier frames, etc.
 
bowtiepower00 said:
The earlier rigs are typically lighter than the new ones. All of the safety stuff and fluff adds up quickly. The new 3/4 ton rigs also have bigger heavier frames, etc.
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Crap, i forgot about that stuff. I knew I would be wrong.
 
bowtiepower00 said:
Take a look over at ORD and DIY4X, they both have lots of great products.

A set of Tuff Country EZ-Rides, and a rear flip would work great. Add a 1" BL to make wrenching easier. 3/4 ton axles with a rear locker.

Lots of build threads on here, just start digging and you'll find what you're looking for. You don't need to spend a ton of money to have a capable rig.

Start with the body style you like the most. Keep in mind though that a K5 is going to get a lot of body damage if you're wheeling it hard. Nothing a little armor won't fix, but then you're adding weight.
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It is good because i could really care less about what the body looks like. I will probably add a few things, though just to keep it up a bit.

I have a set of 1 ton axles on the way, and will probably run a front and rear locker. 5.13's.

I have a question about the lockers...if i have a front locker, in 2 wheel drive is it going to affect anything? I know that the axle isnt engaged, but the shafts are still tied together.

Thanks, that is my new set of questions.
Zach
 
mogulmasher said:
I was searching for a K5, but found my K20 and couldn't pass it up. Turns out I love the lwb....it rides much better, and I rarely ever need to carry more then a couple people anyways.

Probably still will get a K5 when I'm sick of this one....just can't pass up the cool factor cruising with the top off in summer!

77K20Pics005.jpg
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Wow Nice Clean New England Truck


If you ever get rid of it let me know.

Tom Ford
 
SmokinLB7 said:
Dang mogulmasher, looks like you got it made when you get board of that.
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Yeah I ought to start taking bids....jk of course. I got this truck cause I was getting a little bored with my '71 Nova in the garage. Of course when I got bored of that I didn't/won't sell it.

It's too nice to do any serious wheeling, but I am getting anxious for all the snow to melt and get out and try this thing out on the trails! I've had a '79 shorty stepside, an '85 K5, and an '87 K10 before this, I'm curious how this one will fair in the woods, especially vs. my old '79 swb, that truck went to hell and back on several occasions and kept coming back for more!:bow:
 
SmokinLB7 said:
What is bobbing the bed and how do you do it?
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heres a pic of what i ment. narrowing the bed compliments of Bmorby or whatever his user name is. killer rig:bow:

now tell me thats not sexy!

DSC02425.JPG
 
Very sick. I have no idea what to do. This is stressful...

Is that a long or short bed? I cant tell from ths angle
 
i believe thats a shortbed, but a longbed would be pretty much the same thing. thats what i would do. only reason im not doing that to mine is because i drive mine on the street, and the cops wouldnt like that without mega huge fender flares.
 
Maybe ya'll could help me out real quick and post up a few pictures of your rides. Hopefully someone can show me them wheelin' their long bed. And pictures of the trucks with roll cages too, because i dont really get that either...do they just drill 2 holes in the cab or what?


Thank guys,
Zach
 
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