KOW with Keys
Newbie
To preface this I've been researching this for 5 years and I need some things lined out by K5 owners before I start to build my own in a few years. I know these questions have all been asked before, BUT NOT LIKE THIS. The little kid in me is thinking this will be what the K5 was intended to become before it's untimely demise. I'll tell the build first then explain why for all you who won't read the why before the what.
1980-1989 K5 body, 1992-1999 2 door Tahoe(Blazer) Chassis, 3/4 ton GM 14 bolt IFS front end, Ford 8.8 inch rear, LS 5.3 v8, 4l65 or 6l80 or NV4500 Trans. 4 inch Suspension lift, 2 inch body lift. 35 inch tires(BFG K02)
So, understandably K5's are a beast off-road. Could they be better, more comfortable, more reliable, FASTER? We all have a rivalry with the Bronco and it's twin traction beam. We all know that the TTB has too much going on and are costly to build and repair. GM's IFS was just as capable, however it had some setbacks. Everyone knows IFS's weakest link is the tie rods and occasionally the CV axle. On the other hand, custom IFS are expensive. Being a mechanic myself I've noticed that the second gen Toyota Tundra IFS is similar(identical in size and structure) to the 3/4 ton Chevy IFS. Well, apparently through research and a date with a tape measure, I've found that 3/4 ton IFS in the OBS Chevy's will bolt to the 1/2 IFS Chevy's with a cradle drop found in 4-6 inch lift kits. So why all this for IFS, as a general rule most off-roaders(when honest) use is that solid axle can negotiate more extreme terrain although with less speed and more discomfort and the threat of death wobble at high speeds. IFS can do similar work with more haste and more passenger comfort at the cost of strength, performance, and a minor amount of stability. So if you're not rock crawling and occasionally envy the 4runner in front or behind you on the trail then this mod would make a degree of sense(although extensive). I've found that so long as you have a solid rear axle and pick a good line you really have no loss.
EVERYONE knows the GM 10 Bolt just ain't strong enough for anything beyond OEM applications where lockers and limited slip is involved. All the same everyone can agree the GM 14 Bolt and the Dana 60 are BIG and you will sacrifice ground clearance for strength and guarantee beating the diff off of even easy obstacles if you run anything under 37 inch tires. An alternative dare I say (through gritted teeth) Ford 8.8 inch rear axle, strong enough to run 35-37 inch tires, and still small enough to go places and not add a ton of weight.
What I'm unsure of is the Transmission. Most people prefer automatic due to the ease of control. I want to know that this is the same even if you have a granny 1st gear. I'm also between 4 and 6 speeds. And to tie it off I know the 4l60 is everywhere which is why I considered it an option due to it’s commonality and low cost, although due to it's low HP rating the 4l65 upgrade would be needed.
Lift kit, 6 inches vs 4in+2in. From what I've seen when you get to 6 inches it tends to be too much for tie rods, axles, and u joints. However I've seen and known 4 inch lifted vehicles to almost never have any issues. Most people claim that 4 inches just ain't enough to clear 35-37 inch tires. So the 2 inch body lift could make up the difference without having to modify wiring and brake lines, this may also be the difference when adapting the K5 body to the Tahoe Chassis. This would also allow the frame to protrude out from under the body, this allows for easy installation(fabrication) of rock sliders.
Last tires, most IFS tend to fail with 35 inch tires and up. It’s also not uncommon for even IFS to have death wobble with 37 inch tires. With the beefed up IFS it’s my belief that 35’s will be a walk in the park seeing that most IFS set ups out there are just modified 1/2 ton setups or smaller. If you work on any of these and see the difference you will understand that GM’s HD IFS and Toyota Tundra’s IFS are insane. The issue with death wobble and road force translation can also be halted by the reduction in tread width. Everyone wants to run big wide tires, give me a break. My S10 Blazer could go almost anywhere on stock tires and OEM EVERYTHING(if you ignored the repair bill that is). It’s been tested, tested again, and retested, that running a stock width(or just narrower) tire and still having height will still wield the same or greater tire flex and tread contact, all while reducing torque going into your steering system. Even better for the budget though is that these ‘pizza cutters’ typically cost less and weigh less saving your budget on two fronts. This is especially helpful seeing that the IFS will disengage the driveshaft and the Ford 8.8 is a light/more efficient axle, saving fuel that much more.
SO this K5 estimated weight 3800-5000 lbs, estimated horsepower 300-450hp, estimated fuel economy 18-22mpg(numbers) or 17 mpg being my guess. WHAT DO Y’ALL THINK? Should I go for it or just build another look alike K5 like all the classic off-roaders or overlander's out there? With great risk comes great rewards?
1980-1989 K5 body, 1992-1999 2 door Tahoe(Blazer) Chassis, 3/4 ton GM 14 bolt IFS front end, Ford 8.8 inch rear, LS 5.3 v8, 4l65 or 6l80 or NV4500 Trans. 4 inch Suspension lift, 2 inch body lift. 35 inch tires(BFG K02)
So, understandably K5's are a beast off-road. Could they be better, more comfortable, more reliable, FASTER? We all have a rivalry with the Bronco and it's twin traction beam. We all know that the TTB has too much going on and are costly to build and repair. GM's IFS was just as capable, however it had some setbacks. Everyone knows IFS's weakest link is the tie rods and occasionally the CV axle. On the other hand, custom IFS are expensive. Being a mechanic myself I've noticed that the second gen Toyota Tundra IFS is similar(identical in size and structure) to the 3/4 ton Chevy IFS. Well, apparently through research and a date with a tape measure, I've found that 3/4 ton IFS in the OBS Chevy's will bolt to the 1/2 IFS Chevy's with a cradle drop found in 4-6 inch lift kits. So why all this for IFS, as a general rule most off-roaders(when honest) use is that solid axle can negotiate more extreme terrain although with less speed and more discomfort and the threat of death wobble at high speeds. IFS can do similar work with more haste and more passenger comfort at the cost of strength, performance, and a minor amount of stability. So if you're not rock crawling and occasionally envy the 4runner in front or behind you on the trail then this mod would make a degree of sense(although extensive). I've found that so long as you have a solid rear axle and pick a good line you really have no loss.
EVERYONE knows the GM 10 Bolt just ain't strong enough for anything beyond OEM applications where lockers and limited slip is involved. All the same everyone can agree the GM 14 Bolt and the Dana 60 are BIG and you will sacrifice ground clearance for strength and guarantee beating the diff off of even easy obstacles if you run anything under 37 inch tires. An alternative dare I say (through gritted teeth) Ford 8.8 inch rear axle, strong enough to run 35-37 inch tires, and still small enough to go places and not add a ton of weight.
What I'm unsure of is the Transmission. Most people prefer automatic due to the ease of control. I want to know that this is the same even if you have a granny 1st gear. I'm also between 4 and 6 speeds. And to tie it off I know the 4l60 is everywhere which is why I considered it an option due to it’s commonality and low cost, although due to it's low HP rating the 4l65 upgrade would be needed.
Lift kit, 6 inches vs 4in+2in. From what I've seen when you get to 6 inches it tends to be too much for tie rods, axles, and u joints. However I've seen and known 4 inch lifted vehicles to almost never have any issues. Most people claim that 4 inches just ain't enough to clear 35-37 inch tires. So the 2 inch body lift could make up the difference without having to modify wiring and brake lines, this may also be the difference when adapting the K5 body to the Tahoe Chassis. This would also allow the frame to protrude out from under the body, this allows for easy installation(fabrication) of rock sliders.
Last tires, most IFS tend to fail with 35 inch tires and up. It’s also not uncommon for even IFS to have death wobble with 37 inch tires. With the beefed up IFS it’s my belief that 35’s will be a walk in the park seeing that most IFS set ups out there are just modified 1/2 ton setups or smaller. If you work on any of these and see the difference you will understand that GM’s HD IFS and Toyota Tundra’s IFS are insane. The issue with death wobble and road force translation can also be halted by the reduction in tread width. Everyone wants to run big wide tires, give me a break. My S10 Blazer could go almost anywhere on stock tires and OEM EVERYTHING(if you ignored the repair bill that is). It’s been tested, tested again, and retested, that running a stock width(or just narrower) tire and still having height will still wield the same or greater tire flex and tread contact, all while reducing torque going into your steering system. Even better for the budget though is that these ‘pizza cutters’ typically cost less and weigh less saving your budget on two fronts. This is especially helpful seeing that the IFS will disengage the driveshaft and the Ford 8.8 is a light/more efficient axle, saving fuel that much more.
SO this K5 estimated weight 3800-5000 lbs, estimated horsepower 300-450hp, estimated fuel economy 18-22mpg(numbers) or 17 mpg being my guess. WHAT DO Y’ALL THINK? Should I go for it or just build another look alike K5 like all the classic off-roaders or overlander's out there? With great risk comes great rewards?
