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K5 Blazer 6.2l No start, no Lights...

Bocheetus

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Hows it going all, I got an 83 K5 with 124K on it. I bought it from Idaho about 5-6K ago. I've been slowly bringing the truck back to stock form, Lots of short cuts have been taken on the truck. But its been running like a Champ. Last night while driving home, the Volt meter on the dash shot up to 18+, the windows rolled up EXTREMELY fast. I hurried home, parked it, and went to bed.

Woke up this morning, went to start it and no lights came on, no Glow
Plug light, no dash lights, cant roll down the windows, front nor rear. I check the batteries, and they were dead. So i replaced them. Still nothing. I checked all my fuses, and replaced one that was popped. all the others were good. I tried to follow all my wires to make sure they didnt get pwnd by my work boots or somthing. Nothing. I was told to check fuseable links, so Thats next on the agenda, figured id make a post and hopefully get some Help...
Thank you,
Dylan
 
I was going to suggest fusible links too. That was my first thought. Sounds like you're on the right track.
 
Man, that don't sound good.
Check your alternator. If its the one with the built in voltage regulator, check the case ground.
In other words, make sure that the case sees the ground terminal on the battery through all the different connections.

If its externally regulated, make sure the regulator has a good ground reference.

You said batteries.
Check the connections between them. If you lose the connection between them, its possible that the alternator is hooked to one's positive and the other's negative.

The reason I am focusing on this instead of getting it cranked, is that the voltage regulator obviously failed and let who knows how much voltage into the system.

This needs to be addressed before you crank it again. Otherwise you risk burning something else up.

Also, hopefully the cause of that is related to why it won't crank.
Find one and you find it all.
So, check the battery cables between the batteries and the input to the system.
Especially check the grounds of the batteries.

If the alternator failed instead of losing ground reference, it may be what killed the batteries. You might want to disconnect it electrically for now.

If all the battery connections are good and are the grounds, then you just need to take a voltmeter and hook one side to ground and follow the main power lead with the other from point to point until you lose voltage and the problem will be between the there and the last place you measured.

Everything being dead is a good thing. That means that the problem is going to be fairly early in the power line from the battery before it does much branching.

J.
 
I think fusable links are pretty rare to go bad, though I could be wrong, Ive never actually run into a vehicle that the FL was bad, usually something else.

Keep us posted!

Andrew
 
I've seen it happen a few times. Usually when people hook up their batteries backwards. Usually the ones near the starter and on the firewall next to the junction block.
 
It sounds like the voltage regulator has went out. I know on the 6.2 CUCV the 24 volt generator's voltage regulator will go, the voltage will shoot up and it will kill the batteries. This also happens on the HUMMV. The charging systems are different but I could almost guaruntee thats what it is. Bad thing is you may have to replace your battery along with the alt.
EDIT: The ground could also be bad along with everything else now.
 
Like these guys are saying check the cables.And any possable shorts.With the voltage spike you may have blew you alt.High voltage can do wierd things but the windows going up seems off.I would think maybe a power window system controled by a bcm would be more believable.Im pritty sure your system is all hard wired and switch controled only and would look for a short.
 
Hmm, you and I got completely different takes on the original post.
When I read the part about the windows, I assumed he meant they rolled up fast when he rolled them up.

But, you are right, you can read it to say they went up by themselves.

Hopefully he will straighten it out.

J.
 
Ok guys sorry for the Delay, My work schedule recently changed drastically. And ive been exhausted, Ok so i installed a New Starter, New Alternator, New battery cables, and new Batteries.... Glow plugs still wont warm up, After a few hours of playing underneath the truck and under the hood. I gave up. I took it to a Local Shop that has a Large Truck and Diesel area. "Precision Automotive Repair 2850 47th Avenue, Sacramento, CA 95822-3808" Ive towed a few guys there before, and I felt really comfortable with them touching my Truck. Ill keep you updated, the best i can. Thanks for the input guys.

Two Side questions,
How to i adjust the linkage on the 4x4?
Also, whats a good muffler to go with the Diesel? I have the stock dual 2.25" set up, i chopped the Stock mufflers off, they were horribly clogged... barley any pressure was coming out. I love the sound of the straight pipe, but im sure my neighbors don't... lol.
 
Ok guys sorry for the Delay, My work schedule recently changed drastically. And ive been exhausted, Ok so i installed a New Starter, New Alternator, New battery cables, and new Batteries.... Glow plugs still wont warm up, After a few hours of playing underneath the truck and under the hood. I gave up. I took it to a Local Shop that has a Large Truck and Diesel area. "Precision Automotive Repair 2850 47th Avenue, Sacramento, CA 95822-3808" Ive towed a few guys there before, and I felt really comfortable with them touching my Truck. Ill keep you updated, the best i can. Thanks for the input guys.

Two Side questions,
How to i adjust the linkage on the 4x4?
Also, whats a good muffler to go with the Diesel? I have the stock dual 2.25" set up, i chopped the Stock mufflers off, they were horribly clogged... barley any pressure was coming out. I love the sound of the straight pipe, but im sure my neighbors don't... lol.

Ive got Thrush Welded mufflers on my 6.2 and they sound pretty good, they are a cheap version of a 40 series flowmaster.
 
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