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K5 Blazer hard rock ride… wanna soft its shocks .. highly angular drive shaft crises

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naveedmerchant

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Any idea which 4x4 shocks and spring leaves are better for all offroad and on road with comfty ride?

Mine is 88K-5 SUV originally diesel replaced with 94 350GM gasoline . My rig came with lift kit with shocks and leaf springs but its very hard and jumpy. I am guessing its because it was originally with heavy diesel engine and its springs and shocks were meant for diesel engine. Also noticed my drive shaft is highly angular so do I need any kit to lower drive train or is there a lift kit which does it all?
 
Do you have any photos?

It sounds like you have a really tall lift kit installed. What size tires do you need to fit?


-G
 
I recently installed Cooper STT 315/75r16 tyres.

I was thinking to change the whole thing all together shocks springs , remove existing lift kit and just get all in one set to sget ofter ride with heavy offroading capability .. I am also having issues with my highly angular drive shaft and need to align this with drive train... was looking to get which can do all in one

its pics can be seen on https://www.flickr.com/photos/46385354@N07/albums/72157650066056327
 
You only need a single shock on the front, instead of that archaic dual shock setup.

Buying parts from America and having them shipped over is probably crazy expensive, not?

Martin
 
I have no issues in getting parts from usa as desperate to get my rig fixed and I am even ok with whole stock replacement of shocks springs lift kit etc... I need guidance what I need to buy springs which can work on both extreme off roading and on road with comfort... I am also getting confused what can I do for my existing angular drive shaft and whether I need someone something to align my drive train
 
The best option would be custom built springs. These are built in a low volume capacity and are more expensive. They will offer the best on road ride and the best performance off road.

I would call Off Road Design. They are blazer specialists.

As far as the driveshafts. You may need the axles rotated to cancel out vibrations.
 
For springs-

http://alcanspring.com/

And

http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog.htm

-------------------------------------------------------------

For shocks-

http://www.bilsteinus.com/products/truck-off-road/5100-series-lifted-light-trucksuv/

You only need one shock on each side up front. I would remove the forward most shock on the front, both sides.

-----------------------------------------------------------------

For your drive shaft angle issues, the best option is to cut & turn and re-weld the leaf spring pads on the axle, so that the pinion angle is 1-2° LOWER than the transfer-case output yoke angle, THEN get a 1350 CV drive shaft from High Angle Driveline-

http://www.highangledriveline.com/

You can also make your angles a bit better with a leaf spring axle shim-

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lift-Kit...Spring-Axle-Shim.aspx?t_c=1&t_s=101&t_pt=5502
 
naveedmerchant said:
lift kit
Click to expand...

There's the problem. There are only a couple brands of "lift kit" springs that ride decent at all. Often times stock rear springs are better than aftermarket, just by doing a shackle flip (NOT by using lift blocks). Custom springs are the hot ticket for a really good ride, but if you don't want to pay for that, look at Tuff Country EZ-ride and some of the BDS springs.

For driveline help, post up some pictures and hopefully measure the angles of the pinion, T-case and driveshaft.
 
KidJethro said:
For springs-

http://alcanspring.com/

And

http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog.htm

-------------------------------------------------------------

For shocks-

http://www.bilsteinus.com/products/truck-off-road/5100-series-lifted-light-trucksuv/

You only need one shock on each side up front. I would remove the forward most shock on the front, both sides.

-----------------------------------------------------------------

For your drive shaft angle issues, the best option is to cut & turn and re-weld the leaf spring pads on the axle, so that the pinion angle is 1-2° LOWER than the transfer-case output yoke angle, THEN get a 1350 CV drive shaft from High Angle Driveline-

http://www.highangledriveline.com/

You can also make your angles a bit better with a leaf spring axle shim-

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lift-Kit...Spring-Axle-Shim.aspx?t_c=1&t_s=101&t_pt=5502
Click to expand...

This. Very good advice:waytogo:
 
I can't see the pictures here at work, but have a couple of comments.

The first question I always ask is how use are you to driving older lifted trucks? The ride quality when stock is drastically different than just about any car or newer SUV on the road.

What air pressure are you running the tires? Those are either D or E load rated tires so if you are running anywhere near the max pressure listed on the sidewall they will ride like bricks.

The factory diesel engine really isn't that much heavier than a gas engine and therefore nobody makes off-the-shelf stiffer springs for them. Because of that I doubt the issue is stiffer than normal springs, or stiffer then what they would put on a gas version truck. Older lift springs tended to be a lot stiffer than stock, and the higher the lift the stiffer the springs ride with all other aspects being equal. If you knew for sure what was currently on the truck I would feed confident recommending a regular old set of lift springs such as Tuff Country as they typically are much softer than older lift kits.
 
Zeus33rd said:
For springs-

http://alcanspring.com/

And

http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog.htm

-------------------------------------------------------------

For shocks-

http://www.bilsteinus.com/products/truck-off-road/5100-series-lifted-light-trucksuv/

You only need one shock on each side up front. I would remove the forward most shock on the front, both sides.

-----------------------------------------------------------------

For your drive shaft angle issues, the best option is to cut & turn and re-weld the leaf spring pads on the axle, so that the pinion angle is 1-2° LOWER than the transfer-case output yoke angle, THEN get a 1350 CV drive shaft from High Angle Driveline-

http://www.highangledriveline.com/

You can also make your angles a bit better with a leaf spring axle shim-

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lift-Kit...Spring-Axle-Shim.aspx?t_c=1&t_s=101&t_pt=5502
Click to expand...

That's perfect .. Thanks
 
I'd also remove the swaybar in the front. Folks here convinced me that is was OK, and it was. Made a world of difference in the ride.
 
Years later for this but I came across this post and just had the same vibration issue fixed. Only had to drop the crossmember with some spacers. Totally got rod if the issue and helped with the, in their words, extreme angle on the drive shaft.

I thought I would add this in for anyone else who this information could help.

Hopefully you still have it, are enjoying it and got all the issuse fixed.
 
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