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K5 Blazer Rear Window Issue, and an Introduction

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dudeiwin86

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can anybody provide me with a pricture of a schematic of how the rear window works?

the dash switch works..
i hit it and can hear the motor power up and down.

however, the window doesnt move.
i dont see any Cable back there... i think it has been removed from the motor to where i *think* it is supposed to go.

---

i just bought this K5 for a daily driver while i work on my other "toy". and am trying to fix it up to be more enjoyable.

(i cant find a "newbie introduction section" so... there you go for my first post)

so far i have uncovered more problems than i expected...

i didnt know to look at the frame where the Steering box mounts...
its cracked... and re-welded with a half-ass weld job. now i know but its too late.

she needs paint work, but has absolutely no Cancer, and very little surface rust under the body. but thats exactly why i fell in love. its a blank canvas for me. and all of the problems are fixable, since the base is a good one.

love K5 blazers, have since i was young. glad to finally own one... just wondering if im going to regret getting a TBI (1990) version rather than an older one..

...anyway... any help displaying how the rear window works, and the different piece for me would be greatly appreciated... im a visual person and a search has yielded nothing.

thanks
miles
 
Looke up LMCtruck.com and they have a pretty good picture of what is in the tailgate. Choose the online catalog for your year and page through until you find the tailgate parts page.
 
awesome, thanks for the tips guys.

i wish i knew about the frame issue before i bought the truck, but its not bad.
it has been welded up, but its just a pretty poor weld job.

ill have to get some one to re-weld it nice and pretty when i put on some big bumpers or something.
 
Make sure that you install some frame braces when you re-do the repair. That'll keep it from cracking in the future. The cracks are definitely not the end of the world, and are a very common problem.
 
Russell said:
Make sure that you install some frame braces when you re-do the repair. That'll keep it from cracking in the future. The cracks are definitely not the end of the world, and are a very common problem.
Click to expand...

thanks for the re-assurance. i got a little sick to my gut when i first spotted it, but upon investigation (thanks to you guys) i feel better about it.

now to investigate this rear window further.

the LMC catalog didnt really show how it worked. they did have parts, from what i could tell, but the rear window diagram was less than stellar.

i need to get in there and identify the window motor (i can hear it spin forward, and spin reverse when i hit the switch on the dash). but i havent identified it back there yet.

what is the black box... it has power wires going to it on the side and bottom. and what looks like an NPT fitting on the bottom. what is that fitting for?

i assumed that was the motor, but i cant feel anything on the back of it that i *think* would turn the cable (if i had a cable at all)

but there is no cable going from the "motor" over to where i *think* it should attach to spin that gear to raise and lower the window mechanism.

im half tempted to buy a whole new rear window motor assembly, but money's too tight for all that so im trying to nail down exactly which parts i need.

wonder if a Haynes manual would be worth the money....
 
dudeiwin86 said:
wonder if a Haynes manual would be worth the money....
Click to expand...

Get the service manual if you are going to buy a book. Haynes manual sucks (is generic) and can be read for free at Autozone or equivalent.

As for the TBI, why would you possibly think that a carb would be better? I have a 71 w/ a carb and 91 w/ TBI. I wish that I had just swapped in a stock TBI rather than building another carbed motor for the 71. Someday :thinking: ...
 
72blazerguy said:
Get the service manual if you are going to buy a book. Haynes manual sucks (is generic) and can be read for free at Autozone or equivalent.

As for the TBI, why would you possibly think that a carb would be better? I have a 71 w/ a carb and 91 w/ TBI. I wish that I had just swapped in a stock TBI rather than building another carbed motor for the 71. Someday :thinking: ...
Click to expand...


less OBDII intrusion...

i have hopes of someday putting a Cummins in it, and i know that i must only be harder with more computers on board

(im used to tuning for motor swaps.. i have a latemodel dodge charger with heads/cam and have helped work on many stroker engines and blower motors)

i guess i would just enjoy the simplicity of the older stuff, and not having to deal with computers.

if i want to throw a cam in it, i can adjust the carb and the distributor, rather than having to flash a new tune onto the "brain" which i understand is very complicated for the 90' model stuff... (as in remove.. burn.. install)

where as with the later model stuff, i can plug in my programmer and just flash the ECU.

shrug.

i know nothing about carb'd stuff, so part of me wants to learn as well. maybe im back-asswards and making more power (cam swap, stroker, etc) is easier on the TBI stuff... but im doubting it based on what i know.

the #1 reason i bought this truck is because i spun a rod bearing in my charger... i need something reliable to get me around while i rebuild it
(back to stock for trade in on a C5 Z06 :) )
#2 is because i want a 4x4 for some offroad fun, and something i can work on once in a while and get "where i want it"
#3 is that my girlfriend loves the chevy styling and it never hurts to have her support in my toys :)

at this point i think i may fix the small stuff in the blazer, get it more "user friendly".
rebuild my charger (stock), trade it in for a vette
then sell this for what i paid or slightly more and hunt for a late 70 or early 80 model K5 Blazer that might be more suitable for a long term project.

id love to hear any input on my thoughts/direction because (if it isnt blatantly obvious) i dont know a whole lot about these trucks, but im a quick learner with background in fast cars :)

thanks for everything
miles
 
dudeiwin86 said:
i guess i would just enjoy the simplicity of the older stuff, and not having to deal with computers.

if i want to throw a cam in it, i can adjust the carb and the distributor, rather than having to flash a new tune onto the "brain" which i understand is very complicated for the 90' model stuff... (as in remove.. burn.. install)

where as with the later model stuff, i can plug in my programmer and just flash the ECU.

shrug.

i know nothing about carb'd stuff, so part of me wants to learn as well. maybe im back-asswards and making more power (cam swap, stroker, etc) is easier on the TBI stuff... but im doubting it based on what i know.

miles
Click to expand...

If you are just looking for raw HP, carb is probably the way to go. I built a 383 stoker and love how it runs, but don't like the performance on severe angles. TBI will run at those angles, just depends on what you are looking for.
 
i have heard about that being an issue with carb's, however any wheeling i due will probably not involve severe angles.

the truck will always be a daily driver first, and a toy second. but i just know i cant leave any vehicle i own stock, so i want to have the potential from the start, even if it takes me 10 years to build it... otherwise ill always be thinking "what if".

well see, right now she goes from A to B just fine, so im loving it, and im loving having a big tank on the road and not having to worry about every pothole and puddle.
 
That black box with the "NPT" fitting is the window motor. The cable screws into that fitting on the bottom, then curls down to the bottom of the gate, and up again to the regulator. The cable is probably lying at the bottom of the gate...it looks like a slightly bigger version of a speedo cable

If you're gonna wheel this K5 stick with the FI. Carb's bring the suck off road...

Welcome to CK5

Rene
 
finally found a picture with some leads.

looks like i need a new cable and the "transmission" or "drivebox" that mounts on the regulator.

after i get those i should be back in business...
80$ for the freakin transmission at classicparts.com tho.. ugh.
wonder if anywhere local might carry or be able to source that piece...

its this part:
http://www.classicparts.com/1978-91...ssion-Blazer-Power-Window/productinfo/11-613/

has anyone ordered the regulator from LMC?
does it come with the "transmission"?
i dont see that part listed anywhere on the LMC catalog... im wondering if i order a whole new regulator it will include it... for only 20$ more, since i will probably order the cable from them @ 30$
 
ill look into it, just to see,
however.. low and behold i was getting some stuff out of the back today and i peaked under the passenger seat.

"whats this box? whats this thick blue wire...?"

sure enough.. its the 'transmission' for the rear window regulator, with the drive cable stilll attatched....
whoever took it out of the rear window just pitched it in the car and its been rolling around for who knows how long...

the cable is broken on the end that attaches to the motor.. almost looks like it was cut with shears because the cut is clean....

i ordered a new cable from LMC today, and im going to see if i can bolt that 'transmission' back into place tonight when i get home from work.

feels good not having to spend 80$ on that box.... hopefully thats all it takes to get it functioning correctly, and i can use my rear tailgate and remove the top :)
 
my rear window is unplugged.

Im trying to figure out where the plug in for the rear window is because i believe it is unplugged for my 1990 k5 blazer. bought it a few weeks ago and was told it s unplugged.
 
There are a couple spots where the rear window is plugged in. On a 90 there is power that comes from the fuse block (an orange / back wire and a pink wire both about 14 gauge which are both plugged into the front of the fuse panel) that runs up over with the main harness to the window switch on the dash. From there they pass through the firewall just above the throttle pedal in a large grommet. The wiring then drops to the driver's side frame rail where there are two connectors. The wires then run along the driver's side frame rail back to the driver's side rear quarter just below the endgate where there are two more connectors. From there they pass into the endgate where there is a limit switch which will not allow the tailgate glass to move unless the endgate is closed. That switch fails on a regular basis and is found on the driver's side of the tailgate on the inside. From there it goes to the window motor.
 
Older thread but hope I can find some answers..
I am having issues with my rear window going up on my 1986 GMC Jimmy. This is my first one, just purchased a couple weeks ago and I am quickly learning that this has been pretty common problem for most if not all Blazer/Jimmy owners at some point.

Last night I changed out the existing motor with a new motor, the window will roll down (very slow)but still does not go up..When I hit the automatic switch on the dash in attempt to roll up the window the dome lights in the cabin dim/flicker.. I am able to easily roll the window all the way up and nearly all the way down when I hook the regulator cable to a cordless drill. The window itself rolls up and down smooth with no abnormal sounds or restrictions. I am also wondering how do I even lower the tailgate to make this work easier for me to tackle. I cannot release the latch within the inside of the tailgate to release it down. When I try to use the key on the exterior of the tailgate I can hear the motor stirring but no action.. I live in Arizona and I am 6'7" so I was pretty much dying in the back doing this work, so I need to be able to get this tailgate down at the very least.
 
The window needs to be down to open the tailgate. Reach over the tailgate and pull the handle to open. When I first picked up my K5, I had to push in on the tailgate hard while simultaneously pulling the handle to get it to open. After adjustment, that was no longer an issue.

Make sure the window channel in the tailgate is properly aligned with the upper channel in the top by adjusting the latch on each side. Some silicon lube on the window channel/rubber helps a lot.
 
JT88K5 said:
The window needs to be down to open the tailgate. Reach over the tailgate and pull the handle to open. When I first picked up my K5, I had to push in on the tailgate hard while simultaneously pulling the handle to get it to open. After adjustment, that was no longer an issue.

Make sure the window channel in the tailgate is properly aligned with the upper channel in the top by adjusting the latch on each side. Some silicon lube on the window channel/rubber helps a lot.
Click to expand...
Ok thank you, I'll give that a try. I tried releasing the tailgate when it was mostly down and I felt like I was going to snap the handle right off. Didn't realize the glass needs to be completely down.
Any idea why the key on the exterior of the tailgate may not be functioning at all?
 
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