k5 brakes problem

[cerryblazer]

hello guys!
i replaced pads and front flexible hoses to my '81 k5 Blazer, cleaning old oil everywhere and replaced with new one.

after replacing parts i bleeded the system but unluckly the right rear wheel screw is blocked

the problem is that now brake pedal travels to the floor almost completly and blazer doesn't brake!

can you help me please?
thank you very much!

Fabio

 

[dune jump]

you should be able to unscrew the bleeder and clear the clog or replace the bleeder. I've drilled them outbefore, very carefully...
I'd just replace the bleeder or you'll fight it every time.

 

[cerryblazer]

thanks Dune Jump!
so do you think the problem could be just the bleeder!??!

i don't want change master cylinder or other important parts!

thanks again

 

[dune jump]

thanks Dune Jump!
so do you think the problem could be just the bleeder!??!

i don't want change master cylinder or other important parts!

thanks again

Could be, I've had a lot of them be clogged up, and unless you can get a good flow and cut off for bleeding that corner, you'll keep air in that section of the line, and air is MUCH easier to compress than brake fluid

 

[cerryblazer]

yes 'cause the other rear wheel bleeder was ok. as front bleeders.
a good oil flow.
but a thing is strange...when i push down pedal brake, the oil reservoir assembly rizes up a little. precisly the rear part of oil reservoir assembly.
what is it?

 

[MTChevy]

yes 'cause the other rear wheel bleeder was ok. as front bleeders.
a good oil flow.
but a thing is strange...when i push down pedal brake, the oil reservoir assembly rizes up a little. precisly the rear part of oil reservoir assembly.
what is it?

the rising you are talking about is normal (if we are on the same page) but i can almost guarantee your soft petal is due to air. not bled out all the way

 

[cerryblazer]

do you think so? i hope!

i think the RR bleeder has never been open.

another thing please...
when i replaced pads i saw that FR caliper had dust boot worn so much to see the line of internal seal.

the problem is that there is the seal in the gap! but there isn't loss of oil!
strange!

how can the oil pushing the piston without come out from the edge?​

 

[lectric80]

There is a large o-ring around the piston that prevents fluid leaking. The bulk of the pressure is held at the back of the piston, so there normally isn't a lot of pressure at the sides and front of the piston.

As for the RR bleeder screw, if you can't get it to bleed or can't get the screw out, try grabbing a new wheel cylinder. That will replace the bleeder screw and allow you to quickly bleed it out. However, you have to tear the rear brakes completely down to replace this part.

 

[lectric80]

Also, the two systems are isolated, so air in the front system should not be able to make it to the rear system unless the master cylinder is bad.

Did you pump the brakes a few times after you bled the front? Whenever I do front pads I have to pump the brakes several times to build pressure into the pistons. Until I do that I have no pedal at all.

 

[cerryblazer]

i bleeded front brakes and oil flowed well with squirt.
i bleeded RR wheel and oil flowed good.

i must RL wheel, i tried to disconnected directly the line but it is blocked too.

I remembered that sometimes the RL wheel is blocked when i pushed down brake pedal in the morning, just started or when there was high humidity.
just a couple of time, after no problem​

 

[cerryblazer]

ehy friends! bleeder released!
finally! air and so much s**t from hole!
actualy brake pedal runs better but i think there still is too much lash.
then i saw that when plastic reservoir assembly rises, some oil comes out of the gasket that holds it connected to the master cylinder.

ehy thanks again for help!