CK5
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Nate52
Registered Member
End goal is to skim the mud w/ nitrous, if I sink I won’t have the tires to keep digging. Also I can’t hold the nitrous down forever. It’s a “if you’re not first, your last” kind of strategy. If it doesn’t work, I’ll still have a bada** streetable K5 that I can take duck hunting and tailgating. Im still working through some of the parts and details as far as getting the engine into the Blazer. If anyone has advice or recommendations on any of these items I’d gladly take it.
Radiator w/electric Fans- I’ve heard Ron Davis is good but might be pricey.
Long tube headers for the swap- read on another thread that ‘98-02 F-Body Long tunes could work?
Motor Mounts - with performance in mind id like to keep The center of gravity as far back as possible without major Modification.
Transfer case - I have a leaky np205 in the blazer but got a 243 or 246 (electric shift) with the engine/tranny - Would it be easier to sell those too and get a 241C OR have the 205 built and adapt it to 4l80 OR get a front axle with a driver side differential (think Ford Dana 60)?
Thinking 4.56 or 4.88 axles with 35 or 37 inch tire and 4 inch Lift to help them fit. I know I’ll need at Least 35 spline axles to handle the power, and selectable lockers, but I’m not sure what else.Maybe it would be worthwhile to buy axles built by someone else? I love to learn and DIY but I’d hate to get in over my head on something too complicated on my first try at it.
Radiator w/electric Fans- I’ve heard Ron Davis is good but might be pricey.
Long tube headers for the swap- read on another thread that ‘98-02 F-Body Long tunes could work?
Motor Mounts - with performance in mind id like to keep The center of gravity as far back as possible without major Modification.
Transfer case - I have a leaky np205 in the blazer but got a 243 or 246 (electric shift) with the engine/tranny - Would it be easier to sell those too and get a 241C OR have the 205 built and adapt it to 4l80 OR get a front axle with a driver side differential (think Ford Dana 60)?
Thinking 4.56 or 4.88 axles with 35 or 37 inch tire and 4 inch Lift to help them fit. I know I’ll need at Least 35 spline axles to handle the power, and selectable lockers, but I’m not sure what else.Maybe it would be worthwhile to buy axles built by someone else? I love to learn and DIY but I’d hate to get in over my head on something too complicated on my first try at it.
Personally I’d avoid the electric shift T cases, but that’s me.
The Ford axle trick is fairly popular. Be aware of the multiple different variations in the Ford front 60s. Some are “super 60s” and some are actually a d50 inner
If you are serious about running the fog on the engine, you probably want to consider the things to do that right, like stainless valves, forged pistons, and a make up fuel pump to make sure you don’t lean it out
The Ford axle trick is fairly popular. Be aware of the multiple different variations in the Ford front 60s. Some are “super 60s” and some are actually a d50 inner
If you are serious about running the fog on the engine, you probably want to consider the things to do that right, like stainless valves, forged pistons, and a make up fuel pump to make sure you don’t lean it out
Nate52
Registered Member
Why avoid the electric? Just curious.
Electric shift is just what came with my junkyard donor. I figure I’m going to have to spend money on a front axle and/or T-Case either way, so might as well try and get the most bang for my buck.
I’ve got forged pistons, rods and crank, and stainless valves. I have to get a new pump to feed the bigger injectors for the N/A setup anyways. Nitrous is a little ways away though. I want to get it tuned, in the truck, and drive it a little bit before I blow it up.
Electric shift is just what came with my junkyard donor. I figure I’m going to have to spend money on a front axle and/or T-Case either way, so might as well try and get the most bang for my buck.
I’ve got forged pistons, rods and crank, and stainless valves. I have to get a new pump to feed the bigger injectors for the N/A setup anyways. Nitrous is a little ways away though. I want to get it tuned, in the truck, and drive it a little bit before I blow it up.
I wouldn't trust the aluminum case being a high HP mud truck. Secondly, the lower gearing isn't a concern so the 4L80E/NP205 would be my choice.
Nate52
Registered Member
That Makes sense from a cost perspective too. Adapting to my 205 will be cheaper than a 241C or finding a Ford Dana 60. If I can solve it’s leak I’ll be in good shape.
