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k5 buyers guide?

L

lay low llama

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springfield mo
I was looking at buying a k5 for myself but first i need to arm myself with some knowledge, I just sold my z06 and need some kind of project to fill the void in my sole so i want a blazer. I did a search and did not come up with anything but i very well may have missed the obvious. could someone help me out with what to look for in a used blazer, what is desirable and things to avoid. any help will be appreciated.
:bow:
 
What are you planing to do with the K5, mall or rock crawler or some thing in between? Big thing to do is check the floor pan for hidden rust areas, that means get up under it/ pull the carpet back, look it over real good.
 
I am going to use it to drive around the farm and mess around every once in a while, may be hit some trails. Just want a good solid rig.
 
I'd stay '87 and up for the TBI.

Check the frame for cracks at the steering box (very common problem)

Floor pan cracks where the front seats mount. Especially if a big boy has been driving it for a while.

Ask if the top has ever been off. Once that seal has been broke it just never seems to not leak.
 
I sold my highly modified 2000 Z28 and bought my blazer for the same reason. I needed a project of some sort. My biggest advice is to check for leaks everywhere. Look at the visible freeze plugs on the side of the block. Try to get a blazer with 1-ton axles on it already. Otherwise make sure you know the gear ratio in the truck (mine had 3.08's). Most of all, be patient. I wasn't. I also wasn't very educated in what can be done to these trucks before purchasing. There were quite a few better deals than what I ended up with. There will be a deal where the owner had already done all the cool mods. They never sell for what people put into it.
 
blazenwhip said:
I'd stay '87 and up for the TBI.

Check the frame for cracks at the steering box (very common problem)

Floor pan cracks where the front seats mount. Especially if a big boy has been driving it for a while.

Ask if the top has ever been off. Once that seal has been broke it just never seems to not leak.
Click to expand...


Not true.

My top has been taken off several times a year for the past 10 years (that as far as I know the history). And more recently, it stays off from May-October, while being parked outside un convered. I don't get a single drop of water on the inside when the top is back on.


To add to what to look for:

Rear floor supports
Area by the tailgate, hinges/floor
If the rear window works
Try not to buy someones project if you can help it. This can be a cheaper route, but some of the work may not be up to par and you have no idea what all they did to it.
 
toomany said:
Not true.

Truth is it may vary b/t trucks. Obviously some may not ever leak, but many do. Some may not have cracks, rust etc, but many do.
To say that it's not true that it will leak is not true. :wink1:
Click to expand...
 
toomany said:
Not true.

My top has been taken off several times a year for the past 10 years (that as far as I know the history). And more recently, it stays off from May-October, while being parked outside un convered. I don't get a single drop of water on the inside when the top is back on.
Click to expand...

It depends on the condition of the outside seal. If it dried out and cracked then it will leak. when it leaks the inside seal keeps it from dripping on the inside, but it will run down between the seals and down the side of the top and run down on the inside and end up on the floor. If you look where the top meets the cab and "bed" that corner is where it will run in.
 
The seal for the hardtop is one of the least things to worry about on a K5. Rust, rust, rust...be ruthless in your search for it if the seller claims "rust free".

Rockers, front floor, seat belt anchor area for the front belts, rear wheel arch area, tailpan, underside of doors, underside of tailgate.

For mechanical, they're a pretty simple truck so much less intimate knowledge is needed. Common stuff to watch for is 305's passed off as 350's, engine claimed to be rebuilt when it hasn't been. TH350 in a truck that should have a 700R-4. Mis-matched diff's as far as gearing goes. First clue for that is no front driveshaft...

Look for busted or cracked shock mounts at the rear.

Rene
 
For me, the single most important thing to look for is the body. It's a must to have a "rust free" body. By "rust free" I mean a body that currently has no rust, and never has. You can find many Blazer ads in which the seller claims "all the rust has been cut out", etc.

Not good enough. I want virgin oem sheetmetal. That also means getting a Blazer that hasn't been in a wreck, and doesn't have a bunch of Bondo on it.

The next most important feature is the frame. Once again, no rust, but also no damage and no modifications to it. As has been pointed out, the area around the steering box is a notorious weak point. Look for any cracking around the bolt holes in the frame by the steering box. There is a weld-in frame reinforcement plate for the steering box area. That would be okay, (even desirable) assuming the rest of the frame is excellent and that plate has been properly welded.

Third for me is the wiring. I'm not an electrical genius, but I can follow GM's wiring diagrams and figure stuff out. If the seller (or another previous owner) has hacked into the wiring harness, that can be a real can of worms to sort out.

I look for unmodified vehicles from "honest" sellers. There are many modified Blazers whose modifications have been very poorly done. I don't want to get involved with one of those. As far as the "honest" part, integrity is very important to me. If a seller lies to me, the ball game's over. I listen to the story behind the vehicle and see if there are any inconsistencies.

My (personal) favorite year is 1988. You get the TBI engines (get a 350) which were first offered in 1987. You also get the upgrades in the 700R4 transmission that GM did for the 1988 (and beyond) model year. (The "personal" part is I prefer that front-end styling to the '89 and newer.)

GM built a gazillion Blazers over the years and for some reason a pretty good one can be bought quite cheaply. I think it's well worth the time to search out a good one from the southwest.

Good Luck and Merry Christmas!
 
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tRustyK5 said:
The seal for the hardtop is one of the least things to worry about on a K5. Rust, rust, rust...be ruthless in your search for it if the seller claims "rust free".
Rene
Click to expand...

Not if it's a leaking seal that is causing a lot of the rust!
 
Rust issues are mostly areas that easily trap debris, and don't drain easily. A classic example is over the wheel arch. There are drain passages for water to run out of, but they easily pack with dirt and mud, which stops drainage and keeps wet muddy debris in that area 24/7 until it rots. If the previous owner rinsed that area often chances are good it isn't rusty and never was.

The general rule of thumb I use is if I can see even a bit of bubbling in the paint from the outside of the truck, the rust is already bad. K5's rot from the inside out.

I've owned K5's since 1989, and I've never had one that leaked at the hardtop seal. I generally apply a thin coat of Vaseline to the seal surface before re-installing the hardtop...

Rene
 
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