K5 Buying ?'s

[SkyJumper]

Hey Guy's and Gal's, I just joined up last night, and I am in the next month or month and a half going to be purchasing my 2nd Blazer.

As I mentioned earlier in the intro and SE region threads, I have been a Ford Bronco die hard man all my life, had 7 or 8 of them over that past 26 yrs of driving time. But last yr I bought a 94 F/S Blazer, with the IFS, and sold it. Now I am going to purchase a true K5 S/A up front.

With that being said and being relatively new to the GM world, is there anything I should be looking out for or looking for on a K5. I am well aware of mechanical issues to look for, I mainly need advice on the best and worst of the K5 world. You know, best yrs, options, or drive train, and chassis that stand out for the better.

I have been reading up and will continue to do so over the next month to be better equipped with info on these trucks.

Thanks in advance for any info you all can share.

 

[badmix]

1st. congrats on joining. 2ndly check the tacked thread at the top on "BUYERS LIST" it has alot of good info and some of the info your looking for.

There arent too many options available. Either Diesel 6.2, 305 or 350cid, and either Carb'd (pre-85 i believe) and TBI.

Not sure on trans, most come with 700r and very few had 4 speed which will be harder to find if that is what your wanting.

IMO, with the way things bolt up to these things, Id be looking for a clean body and frame more than anything. You can put any motor, tranny and axles under these, but hard to find clean body and body work is expensive unless your a DIYer.

Lemme know where your at, always nice to hang with other K5er people. I am planning a trip in 3 weeks to do some off roading in Citrus.

Anyways, good luck in you search

 

[meanboyjr]

And here's the link: K5 Buyer's Guide/Checklist

 

[SkyJumper]

Thanks meanboyjr. I already read that list on the thread. As I was not asking about what to look for from an inspection stand point, or mechanical either. I been around the block more than a several times. Just new to the GM world.

Thanks badmix on the useful info you gave, I am in Cape Coral, 30 miles north of Naples on the west coast.

What I am asking is from the K5 itself, is there a preferred series of yrs to buy over other yrs, or options to look for to be on the K5, things of that nature, not inspection wise.

 

[badmix]

It depends on your taste, some like the Military Versions, some like the updated TBI engine, etc. Also some like the side by side headlight/highbeam and some like the stacked look. The body and interior will basically be the same between them all.

It comes down to front end, engine and tranny.

 

[meanboyjr]

Thanks meanboyjr. I already read that list on the thread. As I was not asking about what to look for from an inspection stand point, or mechanical either. I been around the block more than a several times. Just new to the GM world.

Thanks badmix on the useful info you gave, I am in Cape Coral, 30 miles north of Naples on the east coast.

What I am asking is from the K5 itself, is there a preferred series of yrs to buy over other yrs, or options to look for to be on the K5, things of that nature, not inspection wise.

IMHO, it all comes down to personal preference, and what you're planning to do - or not do - with your new rig. Camping? Crawling? Desert? Woods? Mud? Modify? Run stock? Daily driver & family hauler?

The only thing you were clear about was the need for a straight axle, so that pretty much means anything from '69 to '91. Everything else is open to discussion - transmissions, t/cases, engine options, body styles, etc., depend on what you want and how you're going to use it.

I prefer the older ('73-'79) K5s. I run my '76 bone stock, but that's because it's just used as a camping/hunting/fishing rig and a DD, and it works just fine in those roles as it is. YMMV.

 

[SkyJumper]

I plan on running 35's in way of Pitbull Rockers, a 6" lift w/4.56's with lockers. Mudding and water and camping are the future ave for this build, I prefer to find a stocker and build it my way. It will be a DD, and at times towing my small 12' boat.

Home made welded rock sliders, front and rear bumpers. Maybe later on, a 4 link up front with coil overs.

What yr did GM go TBI or FI? I like the dash configuration on the 80's vs the 90's.

Sorry for the confusion, I know that with every manufacturer, there was yrs when subtle changes were made that ended up a winner or loser to the buyers, and pro's and con's in the same manner. So that is what I was looking for.

 

[meanboyjr]

What yr did GM go TBI or FI? I like the dash configuration on the 80's vs the 90's.

IIRC, 1987 was the first year for the TBI.

 

[paratrooper307]

Be honest about what kind of work you are willing to do. If you are looking for a bargain, chances are it will have powertrain/drivetrain issues or body issues or both. Don't bite off more than you chew or you will end up resenting it and never getting the project done. Sometimes it makes sense to pay a little more for a vehicle with fewer issues. I like to save some money and put in a little DIY time myself, but I'm not into rebuilding the truck from the ground up either.

 

[SkyJumper]

Be honest about what kind of work you are willing to do. If you are looking for a bargain, chances are it will have powertrain/drivetrain issues or body issues or both. Don't bite off more than you chew or you will end up resenting it and never getting the project done. Sometimes it makes sense to pay a little more for a vehicle with fewer issues. I like to save some money and put in a little DIY time myself, but I'm not into rebuilding the truck from the ground up either.

This will be a build of my liking. I am looking for a mainly stocker that has a rust free body and under carriage, this being Florida, it is not too awfully hard to find one. But I have done plenty of builds in my time. But as I stated earlier, always a Ford. The concept is always the same, just a make and model difference. But, as it is, the build will come immediately after purchase, and will be finished in a short amount of time. Welding bumpers and sliders and what not comes afterward, and will be driven while that phase of the build is being carried out. But the suspension and tires and rims and gears/lockers and exhaust will be done up front.

Myself and my Wife are both Federal Employee's and work in the same location, so driving it is not a issue, have multiple cars. And I am always a patient man when it comes to building one.

I have had real gone experiences with BDS suspensions, and that is the route I am going on this unless I find some feedback on ORD, but got to read more on here for anyone running that. Looks like alot of you all are not too thrilled with Rough Country, Tuff, and Superlift, Rancho. So looks like I may be buying another one from BDS.

Tires will either be Pitbull Rockers or SS-SSR's. I see alot of you all are running Shackle reversals or flips in the rear, I am seeing some on here with some nice after market kits, look pretty beefy.

Am I right in saying the NP205 is the x-fer in these trucks or am I wrong?

Oh, one more thing, are the frames on these boxed at all, or C-channeled?

Thanks guys, all been nice and informative. Nice to see that on a forum.

 

[Confedneck]

c-channel frames, but diy4x is building boxing kits, insert and weld!

205 would be difficult to find in a late 80s k5, not sure if any had it factory...

my burb has 6" superlift springs, and rides like a tank..

 

[paratrooper307]

In that time period I think only 3/4 or 1 ton trucks still had 205s, more likely you're going to find a 208 or a 241 on later model examples.

The 205 is very heavy and the low range isn't great, but it is gear driven and robust. 208s are alright, but 241s are a lot stronger.

 

[meanboyjr]

The 205 is very heavy and the low range isn't great, but it is gear driven and robust. 208s are alright, but 241s are a lot stronger.

And then you have the 203s from roughly '71-'79. Lots of folks drop in a part-time kit and call it good, unless they're building a more serious rig, in which case the 203 range box can serve as a donor for a doubler. I think the 241s started in '87 or '88. IIRC, the 208s don't have a fixed yoke/SYE available, if that's important.

All of these in GM applications are similar to the Fords, with the general exception of bolt patterns (and drops).

 

[Polski-Chevy]

I plan on running 35's in way of Pitbull Rockers, a 6" lift w/4.56's with lockers. Mudding and water and camping are the future ave for this build, I prefer to find a stocker and build it my way. It will be a DD, and at times towing my small 12' boat.

Home made welded rock sliders, front and rear bumpers. Maybe later on, a 4 link up front with coil overs.

What yr did GM go TBI or FI? I like the dash configuration on the 80's vs the 90's.

Sorry for the confusion, I know that with every manufacturer, there was yrs when subtle changes were made that ended up a winner or loser to the buyers, and pro's and con's in the same manner. So that is what I was looking for.

If your gonna run 35s, check the steering box well, and you will want to order...
http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/steeringkit.htm

The General was consistent in those days, that's why were confused

 

[SkyJumper]

If your gonna run 35s, check the steering box well, and you will want to order...
http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/steeringkit.htm

The General was consistent in those days, that's why were confused

I happen to be reading a bit the last few days on here and found that out. I see where alot of folks on here have experienced cracking at the frame where the box bolts up. If I was reading correctly, and when I looked up BDS for a suspension match, the kit looks to have the option for the patch panel and bracing.

Thanks for the info.

It would seem with the similarities that the Bronco and Blazer would not be too much in different with each other. And basically they are not, like brothers, but they each have there qualms here and there that separate them.

 

[496truck]

87-91 gas engines were TBI fuel injection. Very simple, reliable system.
700R4 auto OD trans were somewhat improved after 87ish.
NP208 t-case in most of the early 80s till about 88. Not a bad case and there is a SYE kit for it through Tom Woods.
NP241 t-case in about 88-91. Slightly better than the 208.
350 engine... speaks for itself. I don't know anything about the diesels.
Front axle (early 80s and up) is a GM corp 10 bolt, pretty equivalent to a Dana 44. 89ish they were upgraded to 30 spline axles over the previous 27 spline.
Rear axle is also a 10 bolt (early 80s and up). Not particularly strong but not horrible if not abused. Best, and first, upgrade while doing the suspension, replace the rear axle with a 14 bolt semi float rear 6 lug axle out of one of the 88-98 IFS trucks. The spring perches will need to be cut off and moved and welded but it is a MUCH better rear axle and will certainly hold up to the 35" tires in your build plan. Or a set of 8 lug 3/4 ton axles (10b front 14b rear) from a solid axle K20 pickup or suburban will bolt right in to the K5 and you'll most likely get better gearing and bigger brakes. I'm not even going to address the Dana 60 front and 14b full float rear at this time, mainly because of your stated tire size and intended use. We'll leave that for another thread.

Welcome to CK5 and what we affectionately refer to as the "brotherhood". There is more useful info and helpful people here that know these trucks inside and out than anywhere else. Hope I answered your main question.