I'm building a new 350 to replace the 305 in my '83. I also want to split the 700r4 and transfer case to put in a new seal. Do you guys pull the engine separately or yank the trans out with it? As I recall from tightening the bell housing bolts they are not the easiest to get to.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
K5 Engine R & R
- Thread starter PaulZ
- Start date
Thanks, yeah I meant to ask that too. How much work to pull the core support?
If you have the time remove the front end. It isn't hard just time consuming. And take pics of the process. Then removing the motor/transmission/transfer case can come out as one if you have the cherry picker to handle it.
If time is short use long extensions and swivel sockets to get to the transmission bolts. Pull motor first then lower transmission/transfer case as one. I still have to take pics because of my not so great memory.
If time is short use long extensions and swivel sockets to get to the transmission bolts. Pull motor first then lower transmission/transfer case as one. I still have to take pics because of my not so great memory.
Hmm, pulling the front clip would sure be nice. Does it come off in one lump? I did the heads when I first got it, and it was tiring for this old fart climbing up there. I finally took the front wheels off and lowered down to the rotors.
Hood, fenders, core support can all be separated. It adds time to the project.
But the ease of access make it much simpler to do the engine work.
You will need a helper to pull those panels. you need to mark where the bolt heads are and brackets are as each of them are slotted, and can drastically mess up the panel alignment if not correct
But the ease of access make it much simpler to do the engine work.
You will need a helper to pull those panels. you need to mark where the bolt heads are and brackets are as each of them are slotted, and can drastically mess up the panel alignment if not correct
I've taken noses off square bodies all assembled with my engine hoist alone more than once...there is only like a dozen bolts,but the grille has to come out to get at the front body mount bolts (I torched them off instead,as they were rusted and the rubber cushions were junk )..
The wiring all had to be unplugged ,and the radiator removed,everything on the inner fenders like the battery,washer fluid tank ,etc--thats the suckiest part of the job ,for me at least,that and the two body mount bolts to the frame up front..
The wiring all had to be unplugged ,and the radiator removed,everything on the inner fenders like the battery,washer fluid tank ,etc--thats the suckiest part of the job ,for me at least,that and the two body mount bolts to the frame up front..
I have done the core support and I have done the whole clip, it's easier to do just the core support and have the easy path for the combo to come out.
No need to take battery or wiring off.
No need to take battery or wiring off.
When I did an engine swap on my crew cab I removed the transfer case itself first, then I pulled the engine and tranny out together. I removed my radiator core support to pull the engine and trans out. My crew cab has a lot of lift so it was the only way an engine hoist was going to get my engine out.
For me the 2 top bell housing bolts are easier to take out then removing the fenders and clip. If you can take out you tranny hump in the cab its even easier, not sure of your in cab seating/counsel but another option.
I take off hood, unbolt bellhousing/converter, unbolt headers, pull out radiator and motor comes rite out. Wiring fuel line and ps/ac is obvious.
I take off hood, unbolt bellhousing/converter, unbolt headers, pull out radiator and motor comes rite out. Wiring fuel line and ps/ac is obvious.
vandelay industries
1/2 ton status
i'm too tired to really get into (might go more in depth on the weekend)
1) i tend to do em separately.
2) There is a special wrench(es) that are good for the bellhousing bolts. May provide link later.
3) Depending on what hoist you have, you can always take the front wheels off and lower the whole truck.
1) i tend to do em separately.
2) There is a special wrench(es) that are good for the bellhousing bolts. May provide link later.
3) Depending on what hoist you have, you can always take the front wheels off and lower the whole truck.
For me it was hard to pull the engine out without getting the core support out, and I almost damaged the fan and some accessories, I could have pulled those out bot 6 bolts and 2 body mounts was easier and made the swap easier
I don't believe that the transmission tunnel is bolted in, in your '83. I believe that GM stopped that with the body change in '81. My '90 Jimmy had it spot welded in with seam sealer.
I use 18" or so of extension with a swivel impact socket. I even have a 36" extension that can come in handy.
When my Dad swapped the engine in his '90 Blazer, we pulled the front clip after the hood was off. You have to wiggle things just right, and we pulled the front tires and set it low on jack stands so that he really had room. It was easier to work in the engine swap, but added a fair amount of time. We also propped the radiator up to start the engine before we put the front end back on. That way we could still get to it easily for any issues.
My 81 had the bolt in hump
Whatever you do, drain the trans before you pull.
Well ok. I parted out an '85 K30 4 speed truck that didn't have a removable tunnel, so I'm not sure when it changed.
If the engine gets pulled first,remember to bolt something to the transmission bell housing to hold the torque converter in place,before removing it..
A 1/2" box end wrench works well..otherwise it'll tend to slide out and fall,leaving a gallon or more of ATF all over the place..
A 1/2" box end wrench works well..otherwise it'll tend to slide out and fall,leaving a gallon or more of ATF all over the place..
If you truck doest have one and those upper bolts are really tough for you to get to, you can cut a inspection cover or 2 in really easily. Maybe 2" x 2". Make a cover and just sheet screw it back on with 18 gauge or similar.
