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1990 k5 blazer. i was planning on doing a 4 inch shackle flip in the back and 4 inch superlift springs for the front with 2" add-a-leafs all the way around.
If it were me I'd skip the add a leafs, they are not going to give you 2" of additional lift , they will however make your springs stiffer. If you want 6 , either go with 6 , or it you are set on a 4, you could do a 1" zero rate front and rear and a 1" body lift to get to your goal of 6.
Be ready to lift the rear higher later if you want it to be level especially if you use blocks or a shackle flip and springs in rear and just springs up front.
Mods, new shocks, brake lines or move brackets, and steering mods, either a dropped pitman arm or raised steering arm.
You may also need driveshaft mods to accommodate the longer length and maybe an angled shim or rotate the spring perches on the rear axle to help with angle. A lot of people switch to a CV joint on the rear shaft with a lift and point the rear axle at the t-case.
ive actually already got a 3 inch body lift and 3 inch blocks front and rear, but im trying to get rid of the blocks. so i think im just gonna get the springs and shackle flip and keep the body lift.
Well, lets see, i have the same year blazer with a 6" lift system (new spring packs front and back). The brake lines have to be lengthen, youll need either a drop pitman arm or a raised steering arm or an adjustable drag link (these only if you're running stock steering like me). if you are keeping the sway bar, you'll need drop brackets for that. Obviously longer shocks. That's all i can remember for now.
ill try to post pics tomorrow... i think im just gonna get a four inch shackle flip for the rear and four inch lift springs for the front. After that im getting 37x14.50 toyo open country mt's
Blocks in the front!!! you doing the right thing by taking them off. the best way is get a full leaf pack. We also have a 79 blazer with an 8" lift (blocks on rear) and seems to bounce quite a bit and we check them before and after any trails. first couple of times they got a little loose but now they are good
I would suggest staying with the 4" lift. Cheaper overall cost and less potential to need to upgrade other components. If you stay at 4 you can just bolt on the rear shackle flip and be good, where as if you go 6 you would need additional lift in the rear to stay even.
4" suspension and 3" body lift will be plenty of clearance to run 37's.