K5 Power Wondow Motor Dying. Made In USA Available?

[uglytruk]

The driver's window in my '84 K5 Blazer 6.2 won't go up if I lower it more than halfway, unless I wack the door with a 2x4.

Last year I inquired about a window motor on eBay, and the seller said they were made in USA. I don't use that computer anymore, and I'm reluctant to buy a Chinese motor.

Thoughts?

 

[Silverado_Valdez]

I've been able to nurse mine back to functionality by hosing the felt tracks down with silicone spray and the motor with WD40; you might give that a try.

 

[shovelbill80]

there's also a window motor modification i read about, but i haven't searched that yet. my windows are slowwwww. maybe you can do that at the same time.

 

[uglytruk]

It's fast, faster than my equally well lubed Suburban, but def has an electrical prob, as it always dies below 1/2 way. Dead, nada, zip...

 

[runamok151]

I've been able to nurse mine back to functionality by hosing the felt tracks down with silicone spray and the motor with WD40; you might give that a try.

i replaced my driver side window a few years ago and lubed the tracks while it was all apart. put it back together w/ the new motor and it was still slow. i took it back apart and found the nylon wheels on the ends of the scissor bars weren't spinning. the grease on mine was so dry and hard it was like lock tite. once i got them moving the window went up and down much better. it was good enough that i just cleaned and lubed everything the same way on the passenger side and i didn't need to buy a motor.

 

[Fordum]

Well, there's dead, and then there's dead.

The motor is a brush type that is fairly well geared down. So, it spins many times per inch of travel.
If it had a bad spot on the winding, brush, or commutator, It would hit it way before half way.

If the motor is truely dieing electrically half way down, then there must be a wiring problem that the window is hitting and knocking a wire loose.

What is more likely is the motor is stalling.
The leverage changes as the window goes farther up and down.
Apparently there is more load on the motor when it gets low.

A bad motor can and often does cause that, bad bearings, worn brushes, bad solder joints.
But, it can just as easily be caused by the mechanism binding, or low power.

First thing, if you happen to have an ammeter on the dash, turn the key on and run the motor down past the bad spot, and watch the ammeter when you try to run it up.
If its stuck, you will see a load that comes and goes with the switch.

If you don't, turn the key on, make sure the door is open, and watch the dome light.
If the motor is trying to work, it should dim and brighten as you work the switch.

If so, I would pull the door panel and check for binding, worn pivot points, or a bad gear track.

You could also consider the voltage boost mod. It involves adding relays in the door with heavy wire run to them from the battery or another strong power source so that the power for the windows does not have to go through lots of small wire and worn switches.

 

[shovelbill80]

guess you cleared that up for me Fordum.....just like the headlights. thanks

 

[uglytruk]

Good points Fordum...

I agree with the gearing, so it's spinning past the presumed dead spot amy times. I really don't believe it's binding. I had it open a year ago, and am really well versed in getting all the joints and wheels lubed up, but I should reallly open it up and double check. My job just keeps me so busy, working nites...

I should have a motor on hand anyways, as I have a few of the square nose, and my '84 Sub could use a bit more speed...

Maybe the little extra binding is all the motor needs to die? It really won't go up below 1/2 way (down). I had to pound on the door for 10 minutes until all of a sudden, up it went, and it's been fine above 1/2 down. Coincidence?

 

[Fordum]

My problem is, I cannot remember exactly what the linkage looks like in your door.
Off and on over the years I have worked on Fords, Chevys, at least one Dodge, and my Mercedes.
Plus, the methods have changed over the years.
The last one I replaced was on a Ford earlier this year, and it uses cables now.

But, a lot of them were the scissors type. The leverage will change as the window moves up.
At the bottom, the motor is under maximum load, which gets easier as it goes up.
If your motor is weak, there may be a point below which it does not have a enough power to move.

But if that were the case, I would not think that you could get it to go up when it was all the way down.

I just checked on some pictures on Rockauto. Its hard to say without having it in hand, but it looks like there is not too much leverage change.

However, it does have the curved gear track. The lower part of it may be bent.

Also, most of those motors have some kind of automatic circuit breaker built in.
If it is dragging somehow, that might be tripping and will not move until it cools off.

You will probably wind up replacing the motor, but it might be worth while to look for other problems first.

 

[Blue85]

What the heck are those pictures all about?

Before you buy any parts, open the door and have a look. I once had a bolt back out from the window mechanism and it would slow way down in the bottom half of travel. As it got worse, the window wouldn't go up at all without pulling on it. Tightened the bolt up and it worked fine.

Check out the rollers, the tracks, the felts, etc. While it's open grab a voltmeter and see how much voltage actually makes it to the motor when it's stalled. You may need new switches or the relay mod. I have seen old switches drop 3V.