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K5 tailgate key switch

78SWB

Money Pit
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Where do I find one? Has anyone been able to find something aftermarket that works and looks original?

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I've been seeing a bunch of them on Ebay, but I've been looking at the sets that do the doors too. ~100/set. I would think the switch alone should be significantly less. Apparently gm used that switch back in the 60s on some cars, from what I've seen that is usually what they are listed for.

You CAN disassemble these things, and clean them up, but that said, mine has been less than reliable both before and after disassembly.
 
I took mine to the locksmith today to get keyed to match the door locks. I don't know if it works but I'll have matching keys. :dunno:
 
I ended up cheaping out and got a TSC ignition switch. It works great. Doesn’t look oem unfortunately but it works now.
 
Scroll down, its pricey but there

https://gmcpauls.com/lock_sets1.htm

I'm seeing the OEM door lock and tailgate sets on Ebay for $90 plus. No ignition, and that still leaves you using two keys. So his price is more than reasonable if they are high quality.

I get sketched out when I see "chrome" however. GM used stainless, and I despise cheap chromed parts that start rusting...
 
What's not working?

The tailgate electrical switch is separable from the lock cylinder, so you can mix and match if needed. And you can bring a tailgate lock cylinder and a key to a locksmith to match it and meanwhile still lock the truck. The switch part can be opened up and cleaned, too. IIRC I soldered new contacts into one many years ago and it never stopped working after that. Another used switch might not be much better than the one you have. The important thing is putting known good stuff into the tailgate when you do it because getting that stuff in/out is a PITA.
 
The important thing is putting known good stuff into the tailgate when you do it because getting that stuff in/out is a PITA.

I'm sorry, I'm going to have to call into question your expertise on this topic. I've had mine apart more times than I can count. If you can't get the key switch out in under 10 minutes you need practice. :rotfl:

Seriously though. Once you do it a few times it does get easier. And I HAVE screwed around with mine enough to know why many hate them so much they go manual.

Now that you mention it though, leaving the key switch out so I could jumper the switch wires would make me feel better about assuming the switch is my issue. I took it apart and cleaned it up, but didnt fix the intermittent function.
 
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There were holes in the brass spring where it touches the contacts when the cam hits the spring. Also the wires broke off very easy once I got to it. I then figured that switch was done for. I went to a pick n pull to look for parts and had no luck. If I had found that website above before putting it all back together I might’ve bought one, but I don’t want to take it all apart again.
 
I'm sorry, I'm going to have to call into question your expertise on this topic. I've had mine apart more times than I can count. If you can't get the key switch out in under 10 minutes you need practice. :rotfl:
I guess if you do it right the first time you don't have to keep going in? :D
 
What did you do about the wiring? Those connectors are ridiculous to deal with, I hadnt thought of needing to find a pigtail of some sort.

Those dont seem to be the kind of connectors you can buy and assemble yourself.

And to address some smart alecks comment (definitely not talking about Blue85) I have been trying to limp this beat up tailgate along without sacrificing my stockpile of OEM parts to it. A challenge, if I can get it to work right without anything other than creativity. So far a relatively losing battle of many hours invested in bandaid solutions lol. Welded up rotted window channels, used nylon instead of felt, cleaned the switch contacts, replaced a plastic roller with a bearing, welded reinforcement to one of the regulator arms, bypassed safety switch, welded up the cracked top edges...
 
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What was the application for the switch again? How did you mount it? Inquiring minds want to know!
 
$12 TSC ignition switch. Acc-off-on-start. Mounted with jam nuts. I just put loop connectors on the factory wires to mount to the switch. Had to also file off the center stud that’s not used for it to fit so it wouldn’t hit the regulator.
 
An ignition switch off a lawn tractor would work the same and they are a lot smaller in size..cheap at many places like Tractor Supply ,Lowe's,Home Depot ,mower repair shops..
 
I had a gate window switch keyed to match the door cylinders and couple ignition keys made for $65.

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I'm seeing the OEM door lock and tailgate sets on Ebay for $90 plus. No ignition, and that still leaves you using two keys. So his price is more than reasonable if they are high quality.

I get sketched out when I see "chrome" however. GM used stainless, and I despise cheap chromed parts that start rusting...
The ignition lock cylinders are chrome, the door lock & tailgate locks are stainless steel faces, which is just like original.
 
Excellent! Then I feel this is a very economical way to go.

Thanks for letting us hear it straight from the horses mouth! (no offense lol)
 

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