I’ve got everything wired up and all the grounds done. Only thing left is the fuel pump. Looking for a keyed hot for it. Might have to piggyback off the dizzy wire. The fuel gauge and volt gauge work which are the only two I can really check until it runs. I’m having an issue with my reverse lights, for some reason they’re always on when the key is on. I didn’t think I could wire the switch up wrong. I’ll have to figure that out. I’m also kind of confused about the brake lights, my old pedal assembly had two switches and one switch has two two sets of prongs. I plugged one in and the brake lights work fine so I’m not sure why there’s another set of prongs on it and I have no idea what the other switch was for. They’re both the push style switch.
CK5
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K5 wiring
- Thread starter Jake_C_
- Start date
The extra prongs on the brake light switch are for the cruise control.
I’d hunt for an unused keyed hot spot in the fuse box. The distributor will want a clean signal so don’t tap that one for anything.
I’d hunt for an unused keyed hot spot in the fuse box. The distributor will want a clean signal so don’t tap that one for anything.
@nvrenuf @Wes Harden i should have guessed the cruise control, especially considering I unplugged it before. I do have an ohm meter I’ll check that today. It’s really going to suck if I have to replace that switch. I’ll take @nvrenuf advice and not piggyback off the dizzy wire.
Found a keyed hot for the fuel pump, should be the last wire before I can fire it up. I did make a mistake while splicing it though. The fuel sending unit has a wire for the pump and a wire for the sender for the gauge. One wire is pink and one is tan. Seeing as most of the pink wires have been hot I figured the same was true for the pump. Apparently not. I cut the sender wire and the gauge pegged. No biggie though I just spliced them back together. Cut the correct wire this time and tied it into the keyed hot. Except since the gauge reads off of resistance and now there’s more resistance because the wires are spliced, the gauge doesn’t read exactly right. Before i cut it it was a little past empty and now it’s at about a 16th of a tank. I tried different splicing methods and that’s as low as I could get the gauge to read. Not sure how to fix it right now because no matter what it will need spliced somewhere.
Also I checked the reverse lights switch and there’s continuity no matter if it’s in reverse or not. I unplugged the switch and read the wires again and nothing. So somehow the brand new switch is bad. Kinda sucks. I’ll have to get it out and check it out and potentially replace it.
I think the lowest resistance splice will be solder. Mine reads the other way needle is on E still @ 8 gallons in tank.
Good suggestion I didn’t think about solder, ill
Have to try that.
These were the best solders I could muster.
Reads pretty much right at the empty line. Truth is there will still be fuel in the tank when the float bottoms out anyway so hopefully this doesn’t get me in trouble in the future. Oh well lesson learned.
Reads pretty much right at the empty line. Truth is there will still be fuel in the tank when the float bottoms out anyway so hopefully this doesn’t get me in trouble in the future. Oh well lesson learned.
They look pretty good. I would have put shrink tube on there. Be sure to get them taped well
Yeah I didn’t have any shrink tube but I did tape them.
