Kandy Kane

[Blue85]

I assume you're going to try swapping one spring and if you're not happy with the leveling you'll order the other one. A set of 2.5" rear springs would probably bring the back up more like 3.5" and you could skip the blocks, but maybe you're just trying to avoid adding stiffness.

I think these trucks just don't want to be level.

 

[Shawn]

I assume you're going to try swapping one spring and if you're not happy with the leveling you'll order the other one. A set of 2.5" rear springs would probably bring the back up more like 3.5" and you could skip the blocks, but maybe you're just trying to avoid adding stiffness.

I think these trucks just don't want to be level.

Yeah just trying one spring now to save money. Buying new 2-3" springs was tempting but trying to keep it low budget. Also curious if its the spring itself or something else so this will hopefully show this. If it continues to lean this bad after the new spring is installed, then I will need to take it somewhere to have them look over the frame and other things.

 

[Wes Harden]

Very cool on the rear brakes being orginal. That dies lend credence to 79k miles.
Be aware those shoes were asbestos. Clean up any dust and get it away from you and family.
Yeah 33-12.5 on rallies looks really good.
Try balance beads instead of wieghts.
Or bust the bead and rotate the tire 180°

 

[Shawn]

Very cool on the rear brakes being orginal. That dies lend credence to 79k miles.
Be aware those shoes were asbestos. Clean up any dust and get it away from you and family.
Yeah 33-12.5 on rallies looks really good.
Try balance beads instead of wieghts.
Or bust the bead and rotate the tire 180°

Great... Hopefully I didn't breath any of that. Didn't even dawn on me. I vacuumed most of that up with my small shop vac so I'll be careful emptying it and try to wear something.

Thanks for the tips as always. I'll see how they do on the highway and rotate them 180 if needed.

Got the new rear springs installed. Went with General Spring part # 22-403. They were FAST. Had them in 2 days.

1969 - 1972 GM Pick Up, Suburban / 1969 - 1988 Full Size Blazer, Jimmy Rear Leaf Spring, 2350 lbs capacity, 6(5/1) leaf

General Spring carries GM Pick-Up rear leaf springs for 1969-1972 Chevrolet Suburbans. Call or order online today!

www.generalspringkc.com

Unfortunately, the rear 3" blocks and new springs are way too high so I will have to put the 2" blocks in. I'm sure the rears will settle after 100 miles. The other thing I noticed is the center pin is hitting the top u-bolt plate so I need to grind that down. The orange ratchet straps help move axle or spring to line up with the center pin.


Little too high in the rear.


Right and left rear spring difference with no weight.

Also the drivers side rear was a different spring


Also did new shackles. Its nice that Dorman makes a decent shackle. Part # 722-066


After all of that, it still leans 1" to the drivers side so I may take to a frame shop and make sure everything checks out.

 

[Shawn]

Pretty much done with the lift and back on the ground. 2" blocks now in the rear. Took it for a quick spin. Does ride smoother than the stock springs which is nice for a change.

 

[Shawn]

Well... due to a non working fuel gauge I ran out of gas the other day so that was fun walking home and getting the ol red container and hitting the gas station....

I've been troubleshooting this issue for the past week. Fuel gauge always reads at 3 o-clock position which usually means a bad ground or sender connection.
-Replaced the gauge itself... same issue
-Purchased another sender and tested it without removing the tank... same issue
-Opened up the cluster to test for ground and 12v... good
-Ran a multimeter from gas tank sender lead to the cluster terminal and it shows an open circuit. BINGO

Started to trace the wire and found it coiled up along the frame close to the engine mount. Was not connected. The wire it connects to runs down the passenger side of the block close to the starter but I could not find the end of the wire until I pulled the starter then realized what the last idiot did when they replaced the starter. They wired the sending unit wire to the starter. WTF


Removed the wire from the starter and re-connected to the tanks sending unit wire and what do you know.... I finally have a functioning gas gauge.

 

[Wes Harden]

3 O'clock normally means open circuit to ground. If you put an incandescent bulb, like an 1156 between the gauge wire and ground it should read @5/8th level on gauge. If it does the gauge and wiring are good. Is either sender or tank ground.

 

[Blue85]

Why was the truck starting? Both the normal start wire and the fuel level were connected there? When you cranked the engine, did the gauge slam over to 9:00?

 

[Shawn]

3 O'clock normally means open circuit to ground. If you put an incandescent bulb, like an 1156 between the gauge wire and ground it should read @5/8th level on gauge. If it does the gauge and wiring are good. Is either sender or tank ground.

Yep definitely open circuit. I was surprised I missed the coiled up wire disconnected and ended up wasting time on gauge and sender. I just wanted to rule those out. Once you figure out where 12v+, negative, and the sender wire is on the cluster, its easier to troubleshoot. Good info on the light bulb.

I kept the cluster in plugged in but had the gauge removed to test. KO=Key On 12v, G=ground, SU=sending unit wire. Pic is from the video below.

Good video here on troubleshooting the gas gauge:

Why was the truck starting? Both the normal start wire and the fuel level were connected there? When you cranked the engine, did the gauge slam over to 9:00?

It was on the starter solenoid post that you never use. The start wire was on the other post. I'm surprised it didn't cause any issues and the gauge never went to 9:00 when starting that I noticed. Unfortunately, these are the shenanigans you always find with previous owners. SMH

 

[Blue85]

Oh yeah, I think that post is to bypass the coil resistor during cranking, so not used much since we got rid of points ignition.

 

[Wes Harden]

View attachment 513375

It was on the starter solenoid post that you never use. The start wire was on the other post. I'm surprised it didn't cause any issues and the gauge never went to 9:00 when starting that I noticed. Unfortunately, these are the shenanigans you always find with previous owners. SMH

The "I" terminal has no ground. When solenoid is engaged the "I" terminal gets 12v. Putting 12v to 12v has no effect. The gauge would act no different, it already has 12volts across it just waiting for a ground.

 

[Shawn]

The "I" terminal has no ground. When solenoid is engaged the "I" terminal gets 12v. Putting 12v to 12v has no effect. The gauge would act no different, it already has 12volts across it just waiting for a ground.

Makes sense. I couldn't remember how exactly that terminal worked. I just had to laugh when I saw that and glad the mystery was solved.