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kenwood vs. kicker.

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SUPERSUB87

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im looking for some inexpesive subs that can do both mid and lows.
so far i have narrowed it down to two

kenwood kfc-w3011
or
kicker 05cvr12-4

both are 4 ohm
kenwood freqency goes up to 800
kicker to 500

both have rms ratings up to 400watts.

and both have great reviews

here are the links to the website with them

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=14817

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=17651

the amp i will be using is a soundstorm d3000sl. unless anyone has anything to say bad about it.
 
If you have decent front and rear speakers , and a deck with HPF and LPF , you can run the sub outs to just a sub .
 
pauly383 said:
If you have decent front and rear speakers , and a deck with HPF and LPF , you can run the sub outs to just a sub .
Click to expand...

you mean skip the amp and just run from the headunit?
 
No , I mean if your front and rear speakers are decent , you won't need the subs to reproduce the mids .

Mids in the sub just muddy up the sound .

The subs should be crossed over at a low frequency . And your other speakers should handle the other frequencies .

Most modern headunits , from the middle prices up , should have some kind of crossover or sub out built in to go to your sub amp . Otherwise you need a seperate component to perform the crossover duties .
 
oh. yeah forgot i put the mid part in it. ill have a couple 6x9's and 6.5's so the mids aren't really that important, just wanted a little higher frequency to like 500-800. the subs are going to be for lows. i just really need general opinions on them. audiobahns would have been in this line up but they use non-transfer paper cones. so i shyed away from those.

the headunit im going to be using is a dual xdmr 7700 for the preamp outputs, xm, and all the other features. the one problem i have with it is the preamp voltage is low. like 2 i think. so i might get a pioneer or panasonic instead.

the deck has the front and rear preamp outputs but not one for the sub. would this be a problem or could i just splice the wirings and create one like i'm doing for my other car?
 
Dual has some nice features for the price , but I would step up to the Pioneer .

Even Pioneers lowest Premeir model ( MSRP 140.00 ) has 3 sets of preamp outs , and a built in crossover ... as well Sattelite ready with a 99 dollar add on tuner ( My sony has one , fits on a/c box behind glove box ) , and i-pod control .
 
the pioneer i was looking at is the deh-p4900ib. i guess i will just got with it instead. trying to save a lil money. but i will be happy in the long run. besides, the headunits amp is probably going to be just powering the 3.5 in the dash and the amps are going to power the 6.5's and the 6x9's.

as far as the subs go. do you have any expierence with the. or would you recommend any others. rockford p2's were high on my list as well too.
 
Rockord Fosgate subs sound great . I have two 10's and Punch amp . Its more than enough for me :thumb:

Why not listen to some in the store , and listen to different systems in simmilar vehicles and see what sounds ok .The box , crossover , and the vehicles interior will change the sound .
 
i have a friend who has some rockford p2's in his suburban (newer model.) and they do sound great. the stores around where i live are slim to none. i have heard the kenwoods and they are decent. but the kickers are always getting great reviews and are known for a lot of bass.
 
My friend has two Kicker 15's , and a huge amp . Too much for me . I like just loud enough for the girl in the car next to me to hear it ( pretending I am younger LOL ) . But not loud enough for the next county to hear me :thumb:
 
If you want CVR's, why not buy them cheap? ;) $110 is way too much for that sub.

Woofersetc has them for $95. (http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=2450)

Or if you dont mind ebay, here they are nib for $48: http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-KICKER-2007-CVR-12-4ohm-CompVR-Sub-07-CVR12-4_W0QQitemZ250133719611QQihZ015QQcategoryZ18803QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Im confident you would find similar savings on the Kenwood at those places.

Why would you shy away from paper cones? You know it has the best weight/stiffness ratio of any commonly used material today right? Its superior to aluminum, poly and even titanium. Papaer cones are still used on many of the worlds best speakers. This is in no way a recommendation of audiobahn subs however.

Wanting to run subs up to 600-800 hz is crazy, quite frankly. Those subs, placed in subwoofer designed enclosures, are not meant to deviate above 100-120hz or so. Anything above that will sound bad, and bass response will also suffer as a result. Also, what you are describing is midbass (and lower midrange), our ears can easily discern their point of creation (speaker location), therefore midbass should be part of the front stage speakers, not the rear. Certainly not the subs, which would drown out the front and pull your sound stage behind you where is does not belong.

Keep the subs to 120hz or below (ideally 80hz or below) and set your front speakers to pick up the slack.

Go with a Pioneer deck, they are really making solid ones these days, unlike Dual.
 
below 120 hz , sound pretty much is hard to tell where its coming from , thats why they get crossovered and hid whereever .
 
Even 120hz is localizable to most people, but then most people dont really care. I prefer reunning subs low passed at 60-80hz generally. But yeah, most ppl are happy with up to 120hz or so (max most LP's go).
 
ok. thanks for all the info. im thinking about the kickers. reason why i dont like the paper cones is because i have some in my other car (element) and they tend to add a lot of distortion when i go past half volume. im changing them out for infinitys so im going to be a happer camper. as for the subs in my sub(lol) i'm going to start out with two kickers and work my way from there. ill set them for the lower frequencies now. especially with the sealed box. now i just need the money for the system i have in my head and ill be ready to go with it.
 
SUPERSUB87 said:
ok. thanks for all the info. im thinking about the kickers. reason why i dont like the paper cones is because i have some in my other car (element) and they tend to add a lot of distortion when i go past half volume. im changing them out for infinitys so im going to be a happer camper. as for the subs in my sub(lol) i'm going to start out with two kickers and work my way from there. ill set them for the lower frequencies now. especially with the sealed box. now i just need the money for the system i have in my head and ill be ready to go with it.
Click to expand...
What brought you to the conclusion that any of the audible distortion you hear is caused by the speaker cone material? :doah:
 
the other forums for that car. the stock amp is amazing and alot of people rarely change it, they just get rid of the stock 5.25 paper coned speakers for infinity references and there is no distortion. i've tried all the settings that the stock stereo allows for to tune it but there is still a little distortion. they are not high quality paper cones. they are just some stock ones that were thrown in, thats why i came to that conclusion. i dont really mean that all are bad. just my stock element speakers. other than that the element has a decent system (not to mention a great stock subwoofer).
 
SUPERSUB87 said:
the other forums for that car. the stock amp is amazing and alot of people rarely change it, they just get rid of the stock 5.25 paper coned speakers for infinity references and there is no distortion. i've tried all the settings that the stock stereo allows for to tune it but there is still a little distortion. they are not high quality paper cones. they are just some stock ones that were thrown in, thats why i came to that conclusion. i dont really mean that all are bad. just my stock element speakers. other than that the element has a decent system (not to mention a great stock subwoofer).
Click to expand...
Any distortion you are hearing from stock speaker, that is gone when replaced with a better aftermarket speaker, was not caused by the cone material. Again, papaer cones (of various types) are still used in many of the world's best speakers. More likely the problems you replaced were inherant to the ridiculously poor motor in the stock speaker.

Not trying to sound argumentative here, just trying to explain something. :)
 
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