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Kill Switch??

M

MilpitasK5

1/2 ton status
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Milpitas, Ca.
Has anyone rigged a Kill Switch to their K5? I would like to look into this because after hearing some horror stories about other blazers being stolen, I can barely sleep at night. Not to mention the fact that my K5 isn't my daily driver anymore so it sits in front of my driveway now...
If you can tell me how to go about by doing this cost effectively, I would greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Chris
 
Its easy if you have HEI ignition. The easiest thing to do is mounts a toggle switch hidden in the passenger compartment, or in the engine bay. Find the power wire to the HEI ignition, cut it, splice into the cut line and run it threw the toggle switch. When the toggle is in the off position the truck won't start because there is no power to the distibutor. When it is on, you have power and the truck will start. The only problem is if the thief knows what is going on, he might find the kill switch, or if he opens the hood, he could cut the lines to the toggle, and bypass the toggle switch.
 
If you are worried about it sitting, and it's an '85-up, maybe earlier years as well, PM me, I can refer you to someone who can get a column guard, which will prevent theft. Right around $65 delivered I htink. No modifications to the vehicle necessary, and its a visible as well as physical deterrent. May not be as cheap as some wiring and switches. Also not nearly as easy to bypass, and doesn't involve adding components that can cause troubleshooting headaches, or leave you stranded somewhere. (unless you lose your keys /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
 
I'm going keep your info for now 'cause I'm really on a budget. Need to get a new Carb., and U Joints really soon. I'll definately be interested though.
Thanks,
Chris
 
Thanks for the input. How do I know if I have an HEI ignition? Yeah, I know, that's stupid but I'm learning as I go.
 
Since mine is TBI, I have one infront of my relay for my computer and fuel pump.

I was going to do the HEI thing, but then any thief worth a darn will know how to hot wire the HEI and the starter... /forums/images/icons/frown.gif
 
What year is your truck. Thats one of the things I was going to mention. It helps people help you if you list what your truck is, and what mods have been done to it. Either in a signature line, or in your profile. I believe any truck 73 and newer has HEI, but it might be a little latter. I don't remember for sure.
 
aren't the column guards just to keep people from cracking the casing and using a screw driver or what ever to start it? or is this more then that?
 
a false bat kill switch like on 1/4 mile cars on the normal bumper. and a real on under the seat. plus a relay to the coil on the dash with the rest of the unmarked switches.
grant
 
A stock HEI distributor has the coil on top of it. Non-HEI has a coil wire running from the distributor to a coil mounted away from the distributor.
 
I have a kill switch in mine. The PO installed it but didn’t use connections on the wires. So the wires were just wrapped around the switch terminals. One day me and my dog were riding and the truck died. My wife and son had to come and rescue me and the dog. She was still in her bathrobe and none too happy. I had just replaced the heater core unexpectedly and a bunch of other work the previous weekend so I called a towtruck (AAA) and brought it to a local garage with the instructions to fix it and call me. It was ready about 2 hours later and cost me $10.00.
The moral of the story – use connections on your wires. (as if anybody had to be reminded of that – Duh!)
 
As long as you can get into the truck, and under the hood, you will be able to start one of our trucks...with some exceptions.

The column guard does hardly anything in my mind, to preent someone from starting it. Still just have to run 12v from the batt to the coil terminal on the dist. cap, and jump the starter terminals.

The column guard DOES prevent someone from slide-hammering the lock cylinder out, or busting out the drivers side of the column to drive off with it (stock is plastic) but the *real* preventive feature is that you can't steer. (you don't move the lock cylinder or punch the other side of the column, you won't be steering) Still, I'd guess (based on wrecking yard and auction vehicles) that 95% of all GM's our vintage that are stolen, have been punched where the column guard covers.

Just like anything else, with time, they will get it. But the column guard is an actual physical deterrent. You can't just wire around it.
 
Hey dyeager535, where can i get one of these devices, How much are they, Do they have a website I can look at to see exactly what they look like? Thanks.
 
Yup the 2 swings with a hammer and then a screwdriver is the way most of the old GM's go down that I have seen so that would be a plus. I have been thinking about something like that because as you say it is a visable deterant. It is nice when you have a kill switch that keeps your truck in the parking lot, but it sucks to come back to a broken window and steering column and depending how you rig up the switch a flooded engine.
 
It's better to put a switch on the neutral safety switch wire under the dash. It comes out of the steering column wiring harness. I think it's purple, but check to make sure. When you put a switch on this wire the starter won't crank. This way the thief won't drain your battery or flood the carb. Even if they get under the hood they won't get it started. If you also use a steering lock or column lock it's unlikely that a thief would get that off and then diagnose your starting problem. I'd rather find a broken window then not find my K5.

HEI's came on 75 and later GM's.
 
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