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king pin threads pulled out, HELP?

G

great scott

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I noticed while at easter safari that I had some play from the wheel to the tires. So I did an inspection and found bad tie rod ends and king pin bushings on my D60 with cross over high steer. Now that those parts are in my hands I started to replace them and found the drvers side king pin threads are pulled clean out. How do I fix this, and what may have caused it?
 
So the threads are pulled out of the inner C eh? Guess it's time for a new one... See them on ebay for under $100 usually.
 
that sucks.
Ya, sounds like a new c is in order (unless you are really good at brazing and tapping). Just measure the pitch with a degree finder, grind the weld off for 45mins and have a good weldor weld the new one on.
 
Tell me theres a better way, maybe a great big heili coil or an oversized king pin. What about welding the pin to the C. Of corse I had no idea a new C was only 100$, thats a lot better then I was thinking.
 
Big helicoil would be my 1st choice, but we carry the dedenbear knuckles and can get the axle ends for you, but they're not $100, more like $250 but I don't remember for sure. That's a major inconvenience, to say the least.
 
I think all try the helicoil (if I can find them) first. I just dont have that kind of cash. Any ideas on what may have caused this.
 
Improper torque and lack of locktite on the king pin would be my guess. I bet it loosened it self up and the stress of the knuckle caused the coarse threaded kingpin to start chewing away at the threads in the C.
 
I cant find a helicoil that big, bummer. As for it lossening and wipping out the threads its possible.
 
A machine shop should be able to fix that for you. I would check around. They could weld in a sleeve and re-cut the threads if there is enough material in that area. It may or may not be a lot cheaper than a new "C", but it is worth checking. Another possibility would be to drill and tap oversize, then thread in a plug, then redrill and tap. Where I used to work, we could get very creative to avoid scrapping a $50,000 part because of a machining error. Not to mention throwing our assembly/delivery schedule out the window.
 
Improper torque I had to just torque mine down at best I could with a cheater bar the torque on those things is like 600 FLBs and I dont know many wrenches that go that high.
 
You are correct about this. I just torqued mine down until the point where I thought I would break the 3/4" ratchet attached to a 6' cheater pipe. I used a massive amount of red Locktite to ensure it doesn't back out. I used the 6' cheater to remove the old ones too. It sounded like I broke the C off the axle tube when the kingpin broke free. I also fell on my ass about 4' from where I was originaly standing.
 
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