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Kingpin Wear (To replace or not)

fallout232

fallout232

1/2 ton status
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May 11, 2008
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Location
Dallas Texas
I have searched and found tons of threads on Dana 60 rebuilding and mentions to king pin wear however I havent located any pictures of acceptable wear and need to replace wear, I recently aquired a D60 and have it torn down right now. I am debating on replacing the Upper Kingpins and have shot a few pics of my kingpins. 3/4 of them is shiny with some wear grooves and the back sides facing the pumpkin appears to be corroded. Now If logic stands correct the back side is like this because it sees very little load due to the knuckles putting pressure on the outward facing side of the pins. The Bushings which I discarded because one of them was broke in half showed very little irregular wear. and the springs were flat and wore out. So need your opinion go ahead and replace or run um like they are. Cost isnt the issue as I am completely rebuilding the outers right now it is more the added effort to get them out.
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those look worn to me and also scorn up. to me its that far apart time for reman job. when in dout change them.
 
Those don't look as bad as mine, but if you say there's corrosion, I'd replace them if it's going into a street rig. There's less chance of deathwobble that way.
 
Thanks for the words of wisdom, this is the first Ive dealt with a 60 and just wanted to make sure that I wasnt replacing good parts. I usually follow the mantra as well that if your that far into it might as well replace them. With highs over 100 for the past couple weeks and more to follow not looking forward to fighting them. It looks like it is going to be early fall before I get this axle up under my truck, but good things come to those who wait. Thanks again.
 
just curious.....did you have a hard time getting the lower knuckle plates off? I've been working on a 60 myself and have been held up for quite a while because I can't get the plates off. The only thing I got left to try is gettting an oxy/acetylene torch.
 
search d60 kingpins...i've seen quit a few ingenious ideas as far as removing those kingpins....from welding stock to them to using a come-along on the wrench to the other end of the axle.....they can be a pain to remove from what i've seen & read.
 
Change 'em know while you have it apart.

Lower kingpin was much tougher that the upper on mine. Ended up pounding them out from above through the dust cover.
 
just got my 60all the way apart as well, lower plates required alot of persuading with a BFH (pounding at the corners to get it to twist back and forth) untill sucessively larger wedges were pounded between the plate and knuckle and it popped out. One corner hole on each plate is now "egg" shaped so its time for new lowers.

The upper kingpins had minor and major scoring so those will definately get replaced. In my mind its better to spend the a$$-pain replacing them now then end up in a ditch (or worse) on the way home from the Mtns because the death wobble got me. Come-on 700 lb-ft of fun :D
 
If you go to a machine shop and ask for about a 6" length of 7/8th (I believe) hex shaped fall off you'll have the 'tool' to insert into the king pin and put a wrench on. I've seen that tool go for some decent $$ so thought I'd mention it. It will likely twist some as you torque on it.
 
sweetk30 said:
yep snap-on 7/8" hex drive i have is almost 95 bucks. :eek1:
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I made one out of a piece of 4340 stock from work for free:D. But, a 7/8 tall lug nut works too. Just make sure it is a quality 1 piece lug nut not one of those ones with the thin chrome cap on a short open lug nut:doah:

Dik
 
chris85 said:
just curious.....did you have a hard time getting the lower knuckle plates off? I've been working on a 60 myself and have been held up for quite a while because I can't get the plates off. The only thing I got left to try is gettting an oxy/acetylene torch.
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Mine took some persuasion but i was able to twist them and pry them out. If you have a big pipe wrench that will fit over the edge of the lower kingpin flange you might be able to use it to put some leverage on them to twist them, or as others have stated go through the top seal with a punch and BFH.

For the uppers I am probably going to use a cutting wheel to grind a relief around the lower edge to take the pressure off them Supposedly they twist off pretty easy this way just gotta be careful not to hurt the "C". Dont know what Im gonna do about torqueing the new ones down yet.
 
Close enough for me. That is the very definition of torque. If your cheater is horizontal and you are applying the force (weight) at the right distance, the torque has to be right.
 
Mudstud said:
Seriously- Is that a fairly accurate method?
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BGKYK5 said:
Close enough for me. That is the very definition of torque. If your cheater is horizontal and you are applying the force (weight) at the right distance, the torque has to be right.
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There is a small calculation to perform but that is the basic jist of it. It is an accepted standard in Submarine Repair in the US Navy. There was a large "discussion" on the PBB about this not long ago. It is not as accurate as using the proper torque wrench but it will get you "close enough" when dealing with torque values that large.

Dik
 
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