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KnKut drill bits - worth the money?

GOD DAM IT YOU SON OF A B!TCH :angry1:

I have not seen power block yet . I got it dvr'ing so I can speed threw the crap .

thanks for blowing the surprise for me . :haha::popcorn::thumb:

I find a good set of bits and a drill dr. and play with drill dr. and write down notes for a cheet sheet goes a lot longer than $$$ bits .
 
There good bits but like anything they can be broken burned up etc like other bits. I have had a set for couple years and now need a drill doctor to fix some. Word of advice on high end bits ( Hide them from Everyone)!!!!! Just my .02
 
sweetk30 said:
I find a good set of bits and a drill dr. and play with drill dr. and write down notes for a cheet sheet goes a lot longer than $$$ bits .
Click to expand...

By no means a pro at sharpening them, but the drill dr is no joke. I received the 750X as a present, and have used it a few times now, to do a couple batches of drill bits at a time. The way they cut afterwards is definitely like brand new, and the before/after difference is noticeable for sure.

I've also found making sure I take my time, use cutting fluid (or a bunch of old engine oil lol), and make sure I don't try to use a 1/2" bit to start a hole, ends up making the bits last a lot longer. I have a pretty good stock of bits up to 1/4" I bought before the drill doctor. Now, unless I make a mistake and break one, I don't expect I'll go through nearly as many.

As much as decent bits cost today, a GOOD sharpener will pay for itself even without a ridiculous amount of use.
 
chips are good curley ques are best I was told when drilling .

if its SCREMING :yikes: at you your just burning the bit up .

fyi on some newer dril bit designs they need to be advanced or retarded on the drill dr setup or the head will be cut at the wrong angle and junk . the twist is different . found this out on my snap-on bit I have had for some time.
 
If you want good drill bits get some cobalt drill bits that are made in the USA. (Not cobalt coated, and I don't mean Kobalt brand) They are not regular bits and are more durable than regular HSS and if you start cutting stainless or high strength alloy steel you will really appreciate the cobalt bits. To me they work in between HSS and carbide. They last a lot longer than HSS but they are not as brittle as carbide so you can use them in a hand drill.
 
yea..Im pretty brutal on drill bits, usually burn up. lol. Ive been using my HF step bit here lately..Ive got piles of old bits that always hope i find one that works, lol.

Maybe ill look into the sharpener,,will they help with burnt up bits as well .
 
A good drill index will pay for itself in saving frustration looking for bits...
 
badmix said:
Maybe ill look into the sharpener,,will they help with burnt up bits as well .
Click to expand...

Burnt up tips I assume? I don't see why it wouldn't. As far as I can tell the "grinding" portion is done with a diamond coated drum. I'm sure you could even re-sharpen a broken drill bit, but it would take a fair bit of time on a larger bit, since you don't remove much metal as the tip is sharpened.

Maybe I'm odd in how I drill, but even getting up to a 5/16" hole I'll use four or five bits...the first bit is what takes the most time, the others cut through the existing hole pretty quickly. Seems to me the tip is what normally gets dull, avoiding using the tip on the larger bits (and being judicious on speed and lube) seems to make them last a lot longer.
 
I had an old timer tell me to drill to size right away. That a good solid punch mark was all you needes. He said taking a larger bit and drilling into another hole would mess up the cutting edge on the large bit, because it was hitting midway down the bits face
 
It's kind of strange how it seems that they advertise the stupid plastic case more then the drill bits.They do sound nice though. It would be great to have some good reliable drill bits.
 
With a very sharp bit it seems that you can start and drill a big hole pretty quickly and easily, but in my experience the tip ends up "failing" and you end up with a bit that won't bite anymore. With more bit surface hitting the item being drilled, I would *think* that would tend to heat the bit up more.

I'm sure that step drilling is harder on the non-tip portion, but at the same time, getting a sharp 1/16" bit through 1/4" steel then step drilling to size seems to make the larger bits last quite a bit longer.

Certainly not discounting the old timers experience, my method may well be invalid, I started doing it before I had the sharpener, so I was able to buy/use up the much cheaper 1/16" bits and conserve the more expensive larger ones. Now that I can resharpen bits, probably not a big deal to just drill proper size right away.
 
My shop teacher who was a machinist before he started teaching,claimed using a pilot hole is OK only if you used a bit 3 times smaller than the final hole size--otherwise you risk the larger bit snagging and breaking off..he said using a drill to enlarge a hole already drilled does "beat up" the point and web and can chip it,if it doesn't break...

He used to insist we use a "center drill" to start a hole,which leaves a concave surface for the larger drill to ride on ,not just a square edged round hole...also said in a pinch you could use the larger drill to "start" the hole,then drill it with a small one to make the pilot hole,then finish up with the final sized drill...and if a hole only needed to be slightly larger,to use a reamer,not a drill,because the drill bit will almost always want to snag and snap right off..

Despite all I was taught,I bust more drills than I wear out...
I am not that great at sharpening them either..as I age I find drilling holes with a hand held electric drill one of the most difficult and tiring chores,that seems to kill my spine,arms and chest muscles more than even splitting wood does..and its hard to buy any decent drills for cheap money at stores now too--they either are china crap that turn orange and melt,fold over-or are brittle as glass,and good ones are 3-5 bucks each..lately I look for used ones at yard sales and flea markets,that are often like new and made of good old USA steel by some name brand company...
 
I certainly don't typcially drill really thick stuff, but I have noticed the chinese (or suspected chinese) large bits readily break in pre-existing holes.

Maybe part of the reason I don't break many bits is that I am normally using a not very powerful cordless drill. If a bit takes a good bite, it will just stall.

I prefer not drilling if I can help it. Welding is a lot easier and quicker in many cases, where you can do so.

FWIW, I've only had luck finding reasonably priced bits on ebay (that are allegedly from Brazil, not China) and they seem to be pretty decent. But I don't go full bore when drilling, just enough speed to cut, and plenty of oil. Seems to work for me.
 
I look for the larger sized bits at yard sales and flea markets...I have scored a Silver & Demming 5/8" and 3/4" bit with the 1/2" shank like new,for 1-2 bucks each..beats paying 10-15 bucks at a hardware store,for a bit you may use only a few times...

The two worst drilling jobs I did --one was drilling 3/4" holes on two pieces of 1/2" thick plate that I used to mount a crane base on my flatbed...

I tried using a hand drill,that proved useless after I got up to 3/8" ,it just stalled and hummed..

So I used the drill press, but its a "Companion" ancient Sears one with a 1/3 HP electric motor that stalled about 1500 times even with plenty of lube on the bit and light pressure...the lowest speed isn't slow enough...nor is it powerful enough for holes over 1/2" really..

I dulled my only 1/2" bit about 4 times before I tried using a 3 fluted 3/4"countersink I had found in a pile of scrap made of high speed steel--it went thru the plate a lot easier than the drill did..despite using the drill press,I spent a good 2 hours drilling a dozen holes..

Worse than that job, was installing a receiver hitch on my '82 GMC..

I had one rated for 10,000 lbs that was like brand new off a later GM pickup that was a bit narrower than my frame rails were,so I used some hunks of 6" C-channel bolted to my frame,to have something the hitch could be bolted too...

I had to drill about a dozen 1/2" holes lying on my back,with the hot chips landing on my arms and chest,pushing upwards hard enough to lift the truck up an inch...then had the drill snag and slam my hands against the frame about 50 times,till they felt broken and were bleeding...by the time I got that hitch bolted up and tight,I felt like I'd been run over ten times by the truck..

The final kick in the nuts is the fact I have never towed anything ONCE since I put it on,nor did I ever get around to installing the "T" splice harness for trailer lights...:doah:..but at least it's there,if I do have to tow something now...:surepal:...:screwy:..
 
I don't know if you have a TSC near you but they carry a brand if drill bits called Mibro I think they're called. It's a set from like 1/16 to 3/8 and cobalt. I've had really good luck with them and they were pretty cheap.
 
There are 2 Tractor Supply's about 10 miles away from my house,unfortunately thats far enough to discourage me from going there very often...--every time I go there I wish I had about 300 bucks to blow!..

I'm into garden tractors as much as 4x4's and I see all the things I "need" there,...like kevlar V-belts,pulleys,tubes,tires,and you cant beat their prices on bolts and other hardware,its sold by the pound,not individually in plastic bags for a buck each like at Lowes or HD...they have good deals on pet foods and other stuff there too..(Though their oil and filters seemed pretty pricey compared to other local stores)...I can spend a few hours just gawking at stuff there!..
 
Farm and Fleet is like Tractor Supply x 2 or 3, but they only have them in a few states. We call it the man's mall. "If they don't have it you don't need it!" :thumb:

They carry tractor parts, implements, hardware (bolts by the pound and cheap), power tools, tools, auto parts, ammunition, hunting stuff, fishing stuff, camping stuff, boating stuff, work clothing, chocolate and nuts, candy, pop (soda), pet supplies, agriculture stuff, lawn and garden stuff, and the list goes on.

The only problem is the one near me is right across the road from a Gander Mountain, talk about a money trap, those two places within walking distance of each other!
 
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