79cheyenne79
Registered Member
My valves are tapping. I was told that it is a matter of taking the valve cover off starting the engine and tightening down a bolt until it stops. Any suggestions. I have a 350.
CK5
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Knock Knock
- Thread starter 79cheyenne79
- Start date
Depends if you have the stock hydraulic units or solids. Either way, that's the wrong way to do it. Motor needs to be cold, each cylinder on TDC, comp stroke when you do that pair of tappets. Solids, take up the slack until you have a 'light spin' on the push rod. Hydraulics, take up all lash so again you have a 'light spin' on the push rod, then tighten nut 1 full turn.
If they're still noisey they need replacing (the lifter units).
Is you're oil good?
If they're still noisey they need replacing (the lifter units).
Is you're oil good?
JEBSR
1/2 ton status
sorta, but not exactly...
You can take the valve cover off and loosen each one till it starts to tap (if it is not the one already tapping) then tighten slowly until it stops again. At that point you want to turn the adjusting nut 1/2-1 turn to preload it. Don't preload it to fast though. You can tell by the way the engine cuts out if you are doing it to fast.
You can also go to your local parts store before you start and get some oiler clips that fasten to your rocker arms while you adjust them to keep oil from spewing all over the place. Last time I bought a set they were like 8-10 bucks at the local parts store. They will save you from cleaning up a mess.
You can take the valve cover off and loosen each one till it starts to tap (if it is not the one already tapping) then tighten slowly until it stops again. At that point you want to turn the adjusting nut 1/2-1 turn to preload it. Don't preload it to fast though. You can tell by the way the engine cuts out if you are doing it to fast.
You can also go to your local parts store before you start and get some oiler clips that fasten to your rocker arms while you adjust them to keep oil from spewing all over the place. Last time I bought a set they were like 8-10 bucks at the local parts store. They will save you from cleaning up a mess.
79cheyenne79
Registered Member
What are oiler clips? I have an idea but do you know the specific name? And thanks for the info!!!!!!!! Im trying to get my puppy (350) to act right before I do any other repairs!!!!!!
JEBSR
1/2 ton status
If I remember correctly mine just said oil deflectors on them. That is pretty much what they do as well, they clip onto the rocker arms and block the oil from squirting outward, diverting it downward back into the rocker arm and into the head.
two ways..
You can adjust valves with it running,but I prefer to do it with the engine off,set on the TDC of whatever cylinder's valves your adjusting..this method usually works perfectly,avoids a big oily mess,and prevents the possibility of bending a pushrod or having a valve kiss a piston,if you crank down the rocker arm nut too fast while its running..
I used an old stock valve cover with the center cut out ,to prevent oil from going everywhere while adjusting valves if I feel I must do it with the motor running..
I've even used duct tape!-(yeah,the trusty "Red-Green" method!) over the pushrod holes in the rockers, to keep oil from splashing all over,it sticks well if you wipe the rockers clean and use a bit of carb cleaner or thinner to take the oil off the rockers,before applying the tape..but after I was taught how to do it with the motor not running,I haven't had to adjust any valves the other way in years..
You can adjust valves with it running,but I prefer to do it with the engine off,set on the TDC of whatever cylinder's valves your adjusting..this method usually works perfectly,avoids a big oily mess,and prevents the possibility of bending a pushrod or having a valve kiss a piston,if you crank down the rocker arm nut too fast while its running..
I used an old stock valve cover with the center cut out ,to prevent oil from going everywhere while adjusting valves if I feel I must do it with the motor running..
I've even used duct tape!-(yeah,the trusty "Red-Green" method!) over the pushrod holes in the rockers, to keep oil from splashing all over,it sticks well if you wipe the rockers clean and use a bit of carb cleaner or thinner to take the oil off the rockers,before applying the tape..but after I was taught how to do it with the motor not running,I haven't had to adjust any valves the other way in years..
79cheyenne79
Registered Member
So how do you adjust them with the engine running?
JEBSR
1/2 ton status
Like this
JEBSR said:
79cheyenne79
Registered Member
cooling system
I replaced my t-stat last weekend because I read that the regular temp is 195 on a 350. My rad was leaking until I used this aluma liquid to stop the leak. It seems to be working. But now my temp goes up to 250. And this morning it was 24 degress outside and I went to start the truck up as usual and it over heated when I was on the highway. I have just been putting water in the rad. because I didn't know where the leak was coming from and didn't want to keep wasting money on anti-freeze. Would that have effected anything? I thought the water might have frooze up in the engine. I don't know if the problem is the water pump, maybe a faulty t-stat. What do ya'll think?
I replaced my t-stat last weekend because I read that the regular temp is 195 on a 350. My rad was leaking until I used this aluma liquid to stop the leak. It seems to be working. But now my temp goes up to 250. And this morning it was 24 degress outside and I went to start the truck up as usual and it over heated when I was on the highway. I have just been putting water in the rad. because I didn't know where the leak was coming from and didn't want to keep wasting money on anti-freeze. Would that have effected anything? I thought the water might have frooze up in the engine. I don't know if the problem is the water pump, maybe a faulty t-stat. What do ya'll think?
JEBSR
1/2 ton status
The problem with things like aluma-liquid is that it stops leaks by stopping things up. Unfortunately it can also stop up things you don't want it to stop up. If it is that cold you need to make sure that your coolant mixture is right to keep from freezing and cracking the block. I would pull the thermastat and flush the entire system to try and clear any obstructions, then replaced the thermastat with a 180* unit, put the correct coolant mixture in and give that a shot.
79cheyenne79
Registered Member
what is the correct coolant? a gallon of coolant and a gallon of water?
JEBSR
1/2 ton status
I would go between 5o/5o and 60/40. Read the label on the antifreeze that you buy though as some are a little differant in their suggestions. Oh yea make sure you don't get pre-mix and dilute it. Have seen that happen and cause major issues.
79cheyenne79
Registered Member
Do you think it's a good idea to take the t-stat out and hook the hose back up and do the radiator flush also
