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Timing light accuracy depends on the fact that when the number #1 cylinder is on the compression stroke, and the Harmonic Damper timing mark is lined up exactly on the "zero" mark on the timing tab, that both the intake and exhaust valves are 100% closed. With a GM factory camshaft, which is indexed to the crankshaft when machined, this is true. But, with an aftermarket camshaft this is not true.
Say that with an aftermarket camshaft, when the Harmonic Damper timing mark is lined up with the timing tab zero mark on the #1 cylider compression stroke, that the intake valve is still slightly open, instead of both valves being 100% closed like on a factory camshaft. Now say that, In order to have both valves 100% closed, you have to roll the Harmonic Damper timing mark back to "negative four degrees" (-4) on the timing tab. This (-4) degrees now becomes your true "zero" mark for a timing light. Now when you advance the timing 8 degrees forward of the (-4) degree timing mark (which would be +4 degrees), you are truly firing the spark plug at +8 degrees before both valves are 100% closed. Do you get the idea?
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I'm calling BS once again.
Valve opening and closing events have absolutely no relation to ignition timing.
Do you even know what ignition timing is? Can you explain that to us?
Normally I give damn near anyone the benefit of the doubt but you're beyond off the wall with the comments in this thread. I've never heard such nonsense in my life.