What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Leaf Spring bushings options

Joel Wilson

Joel Wilson

1/2 ton status
 Premium
Joined
Jun 7, 2017
Posts
633
Reaction score
477
Location
NorCal
Okay, checked into how much it is going to roughly cost to have my leaf spring bushings replaced and it is way not cheap. 680$ for all 4 corners. That is some serious cash for me since I already have the bushings from ORD. So I am thinking of my options. Replace all 4 leaf springs. Not sure of the cost yet, but i also already have invested in Skyjacker overload springs at all 4 corners since the Jimmy comes in at 6400 lbs with all my work tools and goodies. Still a decent option. Also thinking of investing in additional lift equipment. Maybe an air bumper lift? Found a 1.25 ton bumper lift for 600 and change. I don't mind investing in equipment if it will make my life easier in the long run. Any other possible ideas or tricks to changing the leaf spring bushings? Thanks in advance.
 
Are the ord bushing in the springs now?
You can do one eye at a time. Frame on body stands axle on jack remove one eye bolt drive out, bushing, install new, replace bolt.
Move on to next one.
If ord is easy. If factory style rubber a long barrel air hammer is best bet.
 
Wes Harden said:
Are the ord bushing in the springs now?
You can do one eye at a time. Frame on body stands axle on jack remove one eye bolt drive out, bushing, install new, replace bolt.
Move on to next one.
If ord is easy. If factory style rubber a long barrel air hammer is best bet.
Click to expand...
ORD bushings are not installed yet, so looking at pressing out old ones. I tried yesterday one at a time but couldn't get the body to lift enough to get the bushing to clear to be able to work on it. I pulled the one tire I was working one but maybe if I pulled the other tire, then maybe I could get the axle to drop.
 
i recently replaced every bushing and piece of rubber under my 82 k5 blazer with energy suspension poly's from jegs.
I spent no where near $680 so i'm guessing that's what a shop quoted you to do it... do it yourself, you'll be money ahead even if you have to buy the tools to do it.

cheapest way is completly remove one spring at a time, away from truck use a propane torch, aka plumbers torch, from hardware store and burn out the old ones, when they get gooey tap em out with a hammer and punch/chisel, new ones install with your fingers, c-clamp with little effort... they'll catch fire and smoke like crazy so do it outside with a water hose to put out the flames, it won't be hot enough even on fire to hurt the springs.

another way is to use a sawzall and cut through one side using the gap that's already in the end of the leaf spring where it loops around the bushings. once you've split the metal part of the outside of the bushing with the sawzall you can fold it over with a hammer, punch, chisel if you don't have a air hammer, the sawzall through one side makes it easy with or without air tools.

wire brush out the eyes of the springs before putting new bushings in too. use the special greese inside & outside the bushings
 
Wes Harden said:
Yes axle needs to far enough off the ground to never touch so you can work with the bushings.
If you do the remove whole spring route, new u bolts are highly recommend.
Click to expand...

I did the superlift add-a-leaf and u-bolts at same time i r&r'd all spring bushings... Stock Axles, Springs. No money for new springs/lift kit right now.

My approach was I always had 3 wheels on the ground at one time, did everything on one side, then moved to next wheel. I did the rears first, then the front, and spread the work out over a couple weekends, cause my legs are jacked up from a m/c accident a few years ago.

Basically, I jacked up the one wheel I was working on by the frame as close to the axle as i could get, i do not have the ideal 10 ton high lift jack stands so I used 2 six ton's and stacked 2x4's on top of them and underneath the frame rails.

Again, i only jacked one wheel off the ground at a time; i jacked it up enough where the leaf spring i was working on was no longer loaded, compressed with any body weight and the tire was maybe a couple inches off the ground, i left all the tires on for safety and pulled the u-bolts & front and rear spring eye bolts and it was free to work with away from vehicle.

Reinstall, required the extra step of jacking up the hanging axle on one side enough to get all the bolts started.

There's other ways to be sure, but this aporoach worked for me.
 
I do some or all the bushings once a year on the crawler. Using a cherry picker on a corner of the rig is the easiest way I've found.
 
My truck has a 4-ish inch lift and 37's, I just replaced all my front spring bushings. How I do it is two jack stands under the frame by the body mounts at the rear of the front springs, and two floor jacks. Jack it up, pop the wheels off and then droop the axle out all the way, makes it super easy. Then you can do both front eyes at the same time and use the leverage of the weight of the axle to pull the springs straight down. Once you get the fronts bolted back together, move to the back of the front spring, same operation. ORD Kevlar greasables are the only way to go. IMG_20210925_150257_814.jpgIMG_20210925_150258_003.jpgIMG_20210925_150258_182.jpg
 
Last edited:
I think I am going to give it a go again next week, supposed to rain so should be slow at work. I just can't stomach 680$ just for labor alone. I mean I already have the ORD greasable bushings and I am okay with paying 1 to 2x the cost of parts to have something fixed if I dont have time or the energy to do it myself. But 680 is like a big whiskey tango foxtrot. Hopefully I can get those high lift 10 ton jack stands here quickly. Thanks everyone.
 
yeah that 680.00 helps justifying buying the bad ass jack stands. Spring eyes can be a maintenance item, esp if you wheel, or are in sandy grit environment like you are. You'll have the tools to do next time when they'll want $1k labor.
 
First off you never said stock or lift springs . And even stock style can be different sizes .

Next you said overload springs . What EXACT kit & part # are we talking about .? If generic ADD-A-LEAF they can and do provide lift but = HARD RIDE . Plus if stock tappered leaf front should NOT be mixed with ADD-A-LEAF generic leafs . There 2 totally different style leafs and the way they work .

If your lucky and have correct bushings then just drill out old rubber and remove the rest . Grind out any rust to make nice and smooth .

All this info from a rust belt guy and playing with stock to modified square body trucks in 20+years .

Your at a SUPER square body site andsuper tech site for them . So just ask and we will be happy to help .
 
sweetk30 said:
First off you never said stock or lift springs . And even stock style can be different sizes .

Next you said overload springs . What EXACT kit & part # are we talking about .? If generic ADD-A-LEAF they can and do provide lift but = HARD RIDE . Plus if stock tappered leaf front should NOT be mixed with ADD-A-LEAF generic leafs . There 2 totally different style leafs and the way they work .

If your lucky and have correct bushings then just drill out old rubber and remove the rest . Grind out any rust to make nice and smooth .

All this info from a rust belt guy and playing with stock to modified square body trucks in 20+years .

Your at a SUPER square body site andsuper tech site for them . So just ask and we will be happy to help .
Click to expand...
Sorry about that. Dana 44 front, 12 bolt rear, Stock springs, Skyjacker Softride add a leafs, both front and rear. SJA R1120 and SJA F1100. Shocks are Monroe load adjusting. I also measured all the spring eyes per ORD before I ordered so hopefully I got all the right ones. All of the new bushings are ORD Kevlar greasable. With everything that I have added to the Jimmy and what I carry for work, it tips the scales at right around 6400 lbs fully fueled. I might be able to shed 100 lbs if I go through everything and weed out the duplicates. I am not unhappy with the way it rides or sits but going to a better shock or springs is not out of the question IF I can still get the added weight capacity.
 
Quick look on my phone shows WRONG front leaf kit . Its for reg 2.5" wide leafs NOT tappered leafs our trucks got stock up front that start thick and tapper thin and start narrow and flair wide to around 2.75" .
 
Last edited:
Cheavyk10 said:
My truck has a 4-ish inch lift and 37's, I just replaced all my front spring bushings. How I do it is two jack stands under the frame by the body mounts at the rear of the front springs, and two floor jacks. Jack it up, pop the wheels off and then droop the axle out all the way, makes it super easy. Then you can do both front eyes at the same time and use the leverage of the weight of the axle to pull the springs straight down. Once you get the fronts bolted back together, move to the back of the front spring, same operation. ORD Kevlar greasables are the only way to go. View attachment 394584View attachment 394585View attachment 394587
Click to expand...
what's this grey Kevlar bushing??
 
I've got the kevlar in my burb, 6kish miles on them most towing, no complaints. Last week I swapped out 4" hd shackles for 6" hd and the bushings didn't show any wear.
 
sweetk30 said:
Quick look on my phone shows WRONG front leaf kit . Its for reg 2.5" wide leafs NOT tappered leafs our trucks got stock up front that start thick and tapper thin and start narrow and flair wide to around 2.75" .
Click to expand...
Okay, I bought the kit through Summit after I talked to the guy from Skyjacker to make sure they would meet the needs on the Jimmy. Let me know what I should have up front and I can swap them out when I get to the bushings. Still waiting on the monster jack stands.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom