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leaf spring rate question

79bonanza

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Mar 31, 2010
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Georgetown, Kentucky
hey guys hows it goin.

ive been doing some wheeling lately and i have to say the rough country 4'' springs are really limiting my articulation in the front. so the question would be, can i remove a leaf from my spring packs to make the spring rate lower? and will it even be worth it on the trail ?
 
You could remove the shortest leaves (removing the overload won't change things much but it is bad for the springs. Most likely your shackle angle is limiting droop because it is set up for a spring that gets longer under droop.
 
do you think if i put longer shackles on the front it would help it any

If your shackles are anything like most stock lift springs end up with, your upper shackle mount is further rear than your spring on the shackle.

You want your shackle to be angled rearward at about 10* for decent droop and still very good street manners.

Even at 15* it would be good
 
A longer shackle would help very minimally, and running a longer shackle with a close-to-vertical angle would increase leverage on the bushing a lot (another reason to run a proper angle). Like was said, it really needs to be kicked backward so that it can hinge forward and allow the spring to get shorter as the arc increases.

Just in case you haven't seen this yet:
http://coloradok5.com/52inchspringswap.shtml
I'm not referring to that link for the 52" spring swap. Halfway down that page he goes a little in to depth on moving the frame eye forward to gain shackle angle. That would work just as well for the stock length 46" springs, although the hump in the frame might not let you move it as far forward as you'd really want. I know Ryoken is running 46"s so I'm guessing he's got a bunch of pictures in his build thread too.
 
yea ive seen all the schakle angle stuff for leaf springs and stuff, well i already have a truck sporting 52'' and 64'' but its still in the process of being built lol i just have this other truck for playing with during the build of this one so i dont get burned out on it lol i just wanted a "simple " solution to get these rough country springs to do alittle better. im not really wanting to move spring mounts and stuff on this truck.

thanks for the advice tho
 
i just wanted a "simple " solution

Longer springs :p

Just busting your chops.

You probably will get a little softer ride from removing a short leaf or two, but you won't change the total vertical travel you have. With a leaf sprung suspension, you can cycle the suspension and measure the bump+droop=total travel. You can then change the ride height by changing the spring rate (removing/adding leaves in this case), but without changing any of the geometry, you're just losing bump travel to gain droop...it still comes out to the same total.
 
ahhh so no simple fix lol besides longer springs lol. i wish you could just run 52'' with stock steering setup but owell i guess lol.
 
ahhh so no simple fix lol besides longer springs lol. i wish you could just run 52'' with stock steering setup but owell i guess lol.

There's no reason you can't run 52"s with stock steering. The only issue with that combination is that the stock steering has atrocious roll steer, and the whole point of a flexy suspension is to increase that same roll condition.

You can totally put 52"s on a truck with stock steering and drive it around just fine...I don't personally feel the 52"s drive significantly different on the street, so I don't feel that the steering would be all that different either. But all the roll that you will gain from the 52"s will come with that much more roll steer when you're flexed out.

I don't feel that it would hinder the vehicle. You don't have to make use of the full suspension travel. I am very weary of wheeling the stock steering at all though based on my experience of pulling steering arm studs off (pretty serious rock crawling though, borderline buggy trails).

I'll put it this way. If I hadn't said f-it, I'm not fixing this again until I have crossover, I probably would have done my 52"s/64"s and one tons first, but left the sway-bar on and ran stock steering. Then I would have went to 40"s and needed hydro assist, which is when I would have done crossover. I would have left the sway-bar to limit the stress from roll steer on the stock steering, but I would have done the 52"s with the Dana 60 so that I didn't have to drop the axle more than once (god damn that thing's heavy). I wouldn't have had a problem running 52"s with stock steering, but I wouldn't have gained much in the front suspension because the stock steering is limiting it with the risk of a lot of serious breakage like knuckles, steering boxes, and it's not like the frame at the steering box is tough to begin with.

If you're planning on crossover and 52"s eventually, go ahead and put the springs in there now. Just be mindful that if you really let that driver's side droop, you'll be pulling downward on the pitman arm and upward on the steering arm. There's no reason you couldn't eliminate that worry with a cheap limiting strap though, but it might keep you from gaining much in the first place. I was breaking steering arm studs with basically a completely stock truck with the sway bar removed and a 3-4" lift spring with the same crappy shackle angle you get with any other 46" long spring. My draglink was actually a bit higher in the back due to the raised steering arm, so I had more forgiveness for droop than the stock design does. I blame removing the sway bar for my problems because that allowed just a couple inches more droop when the passenger side was stuffed.
 
well i could run 52'' up front right now but i just dont want to have to worry about pulling my steering knuckle studs out or riping my steering box off the frame. i know i could put a limiting strap on it and run it but i never planned on running cross over or 52'' on this truck anyway so i guess ill just keep my same springs. its just not worth it to me to do it right now lol maybe on day eventually lol
 

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