Leaking Transfer Case

[bigred88]

So my transfer case has been leaking since I bought the truck 2 and a half years ago. Its a really small leak, but I'm tired of having tranny fluid all over the undercarriage, and the occasional lovely smell of it burning when it hits the exhaust. Just wondering, how big a job is resealing the thing? How much time/expletives am I looking at here?

 

[obijuan]

which tcase definately changes things.

 

[George_Pimpdaddy]

best bet is gonna be to get under there and clean it all up either with power washing or brake cleaner. then monitor the leaks as you go to really see what is leaking and from where.. It could be as simple as your slip yoke seal or as involving as doing the case halfs.

 

[BGKYK5]

If it is the truck in your sig, I am gonna bet it is the slip yoke seal on the 241. Shouldn't be that bad to replace. Remove driveshaft. Remove slip yoke housing (4 bolts) pound out old and pound in new seal (go slow and keep it square in the bore). Might as well replace the bushing in there while you are at it. Make sure the seal surface of the driveshaft is in good shape too.

 

[George_Pimpdaddy]

Umm Im pretty sure an 88 would of had the 208 and you don't need to remove any of the housing of the transfer case you can do that seal under the truck as is..

 

[BGKYK5]

89 was the first year of the 241, huh. Then what he ^ said.

 

[wildbluek5]

seal driver trick

Hey, I found a cheap way to add a seal driver to my toolbox.

I ruined the first slip yoke seal by trying to hammer around the edges, so I called several parts stores but nobody had a driver set for the rear seal for less than $200. I even called a trany shop to see if I could borrow a seal driver. The guy had previously done work on my Blazer so I thought he would help me out, but he told me to go buy the $200 set.

I went to the hardware store to see if I could come up with a cheaper solution. I still had the new seal in my pocket, so I went to the plumbing department to see if there were any possible matches.

I found an iron reducer coupling that fit the outer diameter of the seal like it was custom made. I think it was 1-1/2 to 3", or something like that.
The coupler had a large enough backspace to fit over the spline shaft.
I used electrical tape to hold the seal on the coupler, tapped it twice with a hammer, and shizam! it was done.
I think the coupler cost something like $3.95.
I'm tempted to take my $3.95 driver over to the trany shop, and shove it up his......

 

[BGKYK5]

I'm tempted to take my $3.95 driver over to the trany shop, and shove it up his......

Better yet, start selling them for $190.

I have never used a seal driver, I have always been able to find random cheap/free stuff that works just as well (sockets, pipe, scrap, washers between two nuts on a bolt, etc.).

 

[bigred88]

I probably should have clarified that a bit- it's a 208, and it's leaking between the halves. At least that's where I'm pretty sure it is- it was a while ago when I checked. I'll have to look at the yoke just to make sure.

 

[George_Pimpdaddy]

clean it up and make sure thats your issue before you get into the halfs. also ive done a few slip seals and never needed anything but a screw driver for pulling it out and a hammer for putting the new one in just gotta be gentle

 

[obijuan]

if its not too too bad and if its the two halfs and you can get to it, drain it, then sand it down where its leaking and spray it down with brake cleaner like a mo. 5 minute epoxy it and filler up and see if it worked.

ive never had a 208 last long enough to warrant a rebuild when theyre 50 bucks to swap in another one.

 

[Stomis]

88 should be the only year that the 241 was mech driven speedo. If its a 208 then its a leftover from 87. The transfer cases switched with the truck body style.

 

[BGKYK5]

'89 was the mech speedo 241.

 

[George_Pimpdaddy]

'89 was the mech speedo 241.

Yup my 89 sure is