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legit d44 vs d60

what to go with?

  • opt for a stock d60

    Votes: 24 39.3%

  • opt for a build d44 (chromo + beef joints + whatever else)

    Votes: 8 13.1%

  • wait till i break my small pool of spare shafts for the d44

    Votes: 19 31.1%

  • go eat bacon nekkid?

    Votes: 10 16.4%
  • Total voters
    61
Masiony

Masiony

1/2 ton status
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Sep 2, 2005
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Springfield, OR
ok, i have a legitamate question on getting a d60 or upgrading my d44.

my rig is an s10 blazer with full width 3/4t axles and 38.5 TSL's. its running about 3500 lbs empty or more like 4k loaded with tools and camping gear. im not pushing a high horse motor, but i do have about 20k ft/lbs at the wheels due to my gear reductions. i know on a full size, this would be pushing the limits of the d44 and most would say just get a d60. my axle survived a week trip at the rubicon, but i feel like i need to baby it. now dont get me wrong, i generally am not a throttle jockey but i do like some peace of mind. but im not sold on the extra weight and clearance (or lack there of) of the 60, and it might truly be overkill for me.

lets say hypothetically that i have a $1k budget for front axle upgrades in the future. do i look for a 78-79 HP60 or do get the works on the d44? i've heard it said that a built 44 is similar to a stock 60 in strength, but the thing is, with a built 44 there is warranties on the parts that i am likely to break. there is also a thing i read about 30 spline stubs for 44's now.

i would need to get at least one high steer arm for the d60 if i went that route, so i would be limited on what i could get with a d60. i could potentially get a lot more bang for the buck with a build 44 considering i already have the housing, steering, locker, and gears.

so does anyone have any real world experience with something similar to this?
 
I would say shop for a deal on a 60 take youre time you are in no rush and run the 44 till it breaks or till you have the 60 all bullit proof and ready. carry stock spares for the 44 they are cheap and when its all said and done. sell the 44 to a jeep guy and get back most of the money you got in the locker and gears.I would not put any more money into the 44.02
 
I voted for the 44. It has survived under my truck pretty well and since yours is so light I would stick with it. Plus you've got a load more clearance up front. I believe the chromo shafts have a lifetime warranty on them to.

I mean you could just go to a 60 and have the extra security. Or you could just carry some spare shafts like I do and save yourself $800 + $500 + $300.
 
the 44 will not go to waste, we will be building a few sfa s10's eventually. plus, my 94 burb might be able to use it someday as well. i really dont have much into it with the gears and locker yet, this is just a preemptive thing. i'm personally leaning towards a built 44 for the warranties. i know i am pushing it with my tire size and the tq, but the lack of weight has got to do something for it right?
 
If your budget is $1K then a D60 is probably out of the question. You'd need a new locker, steering arm, possibly rebuild parts of it and then you're still left with 30 spline outers and lockouts. All of that and a 78-79 HP D60 usually runs nearly $1500 around here. I broke a 30 spline D60 outer shaft and hub on 37" MT/R's, its not that hard to do (my buggy weighs 4200 lbs. loaded).

The aftermarket shafts, u-joints (and maybe ball joints) have warranties but the wheel bearings, knuckles and ring and pinion won't. Besides, replacing stuff on the trail sucks, especially when you have to throw your weaker spares in there and baby it for the rest of the week(end). As for 30 spline outers, I didn't think you could get bigger shafts through the D44 spindle :confused:

So yeah, its a tough call :doah:

If I were you, I would stick with the D44 and hope that the knuckles and R&P survive. With Longfield joints and Yukon or Alloy USA shafts you will be just under $1K and you probably won't break those parts (though I haven't heard good things about the Yukon 19 spline outers)
 
one thing i might add. i was very dissappointed with the power steering system that i currently have (astro box, stock s10 pump). i am considering full hydro or at the very least hydro assist. if i go full hydro, i might just weld the front and forget about it to save the cost of the locker. the steering would probably not be in that $1k, but the 4.56 gears would be because i still need to match the rear.
 
If you trailer your rig go with full hydro. Just be careful about steering when your wheel/tire is bound up, full hydro will have more than enough power to snap knuckles.
 
Your 44 appears to be a HP hence the gears are stonger and stuff then a LP 44. The outers are the same strength as a LP 44 but the pumkin parts are what is the same strenght as a LP 60. I personally would go for the HP60, I am a litle biased though, I like to build with the end result in mind if you put money into a weaker part in the end you still have a weaker part just have spent more money on it. Putting the money into a HP60 won't be a waste it will be everything that you need in the end may cost more initialy but in the end will be cheaper. I do agree that it will be a stretch to do it for $1000. However my three have made me $985 and I still have one after buying and selling and stuff, so it is possible to do it cheap :D
 
I won't say you need to go out right now and buy a D60, but I also don't recommend dropping a bunch of $$ into the D44. Run the D44 as it is and carry spares and don't get stupid with it while you keep an eye out for a D60. There are decent deals out there you are persistent but it may take awhile, plus once you do get one you take your time building it and spread the cost out over time. I bought a complete running 1-ton Chevy for $750, and a buddy of mine is constantly on the look out for front D60's and I can't count the number of ones he's picked up over the years all for under $500 each at the absolute most.

As already mentioned by someone else that $100 or $1,000 you may save gets thrown out the window when you in the middle of nowhere laying in the mud and snow fixing a broke truck.
 
do the d60...just save a lil longer and do it right...when i had my 1 ton swap done, everyone said d44 @ 1st unless i could afford d60...it was about 2k more for the d60 w/Detroit, but i don't have to worry about breaking it...and there are a few upgrades so it seems to be a VERY reliable AND strong axle...
 
6.2Blazer said:
I won't say you need to go out right now and buy a D60, but I also don't recommend dropping a bunch of $$ into the D44. Run the D44 as it is and carry spares and don't get stupid with it while you keep an eye out for a D60. There are decent deals out there you are persistent but it may take awhile, plus once you do get one you take your time building it and spread the cost out over time.
Click to expand...

ditto...

this is what i did, ended up finding a deal on a 60 to where all i had to do was trade my geared/open front 10blt to my buddy for a stock 60, he let me take my time rebuilding/locking/gearing the 60 and when i swapped the 60 in, i just gave him the 10blt for his s10 project
 
fourwheelerjeff said:
Solid Axle has come out with some 30 spline 4340 stub shafts.
Click to expand...

What are the cost of those, and how much for a 30-spline locking hub or flange?

Just seems like even more $$ to throw at a 10-bolt/D44 to try to make it last.
 
Whatever you do if you upgrade your shafts in D44 DON'T buy Yukon. You will replace them more then your stock shafts. Buy Alloy USA, Warn, or Superior. Bobby Long's Ujoints are a great strength upgrade too. CTM's are nice but spendy.

Honestly in your spot I would run it till you break it. Once you break it ask yourself how hard was it to break, and will Chromo's make it strong enough for what you want to do.

A D60 is gonna cost you $2000 even if you do it on the cheap unless you get real lucky and it has the correct gear ratio for you. $1000 for an axle, $400 to lock it, $400 to do bearings, seals, brakes, $200 for steering stuff, $____ for etc. Then you still have 30 spl stubs which would probably last you awhile with your setup but are definilty not the end all of breakage.

Harley
 
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