Lengthen driveshaft or ZeroRate the axle forward?

[guido666]

I'm a broke college student, and after installing my lift, my front driveshaft is too short.

I talked about that here...
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=154885

My neighbor got me a 4" longer driveshaft out of a '79 flareside. It's about 2" too long.

Should I have the long driveshaft shortened, the short driveshaft lengthened, get a new driveshaft made, or install a ORD ZeroRate so that I can just move the axle forward 1.5"/2"? Pro/cons would help too.

 

[guido666]

Or I could use the ZeroRate to move the axle forward, use the longer driveshaft, and get some more clearance for my 40" Boggers!

 

[cbbr]

use the ZeroRate to move the axle forward, use the longer driveshaft, and get some more clearance for my 40" Boggers!

That sounds like a plan.

 

[Leper]

That sounds like a plan.

Ditto..... now break out the sawsall

 

[guido666]

The two shafts I have (one too short, one too long) look about the same design, and both '79. But the axle end on the long one is longer then the short driveshaft's. Do you think I could swap the ends and take 1.5" off the length?

 

[miniwally]

I would try combining parts and see what you get.
It is only a front and you may not be able to go faster than 25mph or so in fourwheel drive but you will save $$ and get what you need.

 

[guido666]

I figure I'll try that anyways, but I don't think it will shorten it enough, and I would rather have it not be too long and drive though my tcase. The thing that sux is that I am literally broke, it will be a question of how to pay for ANY solution that isn't free. But with it getting cold soon (it's supposed to be cold and rainy, even snowy all this week starting Wednesday), I don't want to do major work like removing axles. I don't have a garage.

 

[JK5]

By moving the axle forward...1.5-2" will give you better angles..
But you will have to cut the front of your core support and the inner wheel.
And crossover steering is helpfull. So moving your axle forward could cost you more cash.

I moved mine forward due to the size of my tires...they were hitting the firewall. I have a 6" lift with no body lift with 44" TSL's. A buddy of mine has a 4" lift with a 3" body. He runs 39.5 boggers at this time. No issues with tires hitting...his springs aren't that flexy. He hasn't moved his axle forward.

If it were my rig...I'd shorten the shaft..grind the c/v for more angles...especially since you're on a buget.

I have a good selection of shafts..maybe we could work out a trade.
I have a shaft from my rig before I moved the axle forward...that may work for you. I also shorten or re-tube shafts at affordable prices. I have a choice of .125 or .200 wall DOM tubing.

You're welcome to come out and see my rig...if you think that may help.

 

[guido666]

By moving the axle forward...1.5-2" will give you better angles..
But you will have to cut the front of your core support and the inner wheel.
And crossover steering is helpfull. So moving your axle forward could cost you more cash.

I moved mine forward due to the size of my tires...they were hitting the firewall. I have a 6" lift with no body lift with 44" TSL's. A buddy of mine has a 4" lift with a 3" body. He runs 39.5 boggers at this time. No issues with tires hitting...his springs aren't that flexy. He hasn't moved his axle forward.

If it were my rig...I'd shorten the shaft..grind the c/v for more angles...especially since you're on a buget.

I have a good selection of shafts..maybe we could work out a trade.
I have a shaft from my rig before I moved the axle forward...that may work for you. I also shorten or re-tube shafts at affordable prices. I have a choice of .125 or .200 wall DOM tubing.

You're welcome to come out and see my rig...if you think that may help.

Thanks for moving the conversation over here, didn't want to hijack if I didn't have to.

I also run 40"x18"x15" Boggers, on a 4" suspension lift plus 3" body lift. I cut the fenders all the way back to the inner fenders and I still get a little rub at full lock turn, but on level ground. I haven't had a chance to flex it up and see how bad it is.

As the truck sits on level ground, the driveshaft measurements I have taken are about 26.5"-27" (from memory) from bottom of transfer case flange to bottom of yoke, or top to top. I again haven't had a chance to measure when flexed, but I would assume then that I need a driveshaft around 25.5" compressed, 29.5" extended. I'm totally new at this so this is just a guess and I'm hoping you'll make suggestions since I don't have a clue. I'm just trying to give you an idea.

I assume by "Noiton, Ohio" you mean Norton, Ohio, out on I-76 toward Akron?

 

[JK5]

ok...
I'd have to check when I get home tonight...
a measurement from the center of the yoke to the center of the flange would be better...I can do the math.

Yep....Southern part of Norton. 585/21