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Let's see your rear disc brake line routing

only pic I have handy

070917_South_Carolina030.jpg
 
Thanks guys, great responses. Nice clean layouts.

I guess mine is missing the factory tabs (from hard to flex). Now I have something to copy, I mean emulate! :D
 
DSCN2263.jpg




I could not find a clean way to route mine. so I did the most logical thing and built a big bracket from 1/4 inch steel..goes from one side to the other.....:D
 
shaun89 said:
this reminds me...i REALLY have to get a flare tool to get the correct length on my rear lines
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That is one of the reasons I went with flex line the whole way. I HATE double flaring. It never comes out right with the crappy tools I can afford. :mad:
 
I've been dancing around doing flex the whole way as well. I'm getting all of the rest of the lines custom made so why not I guess?

Are there any considerations or tips I should keep in mind, or just treat it like hardline right to the 'T'?
 
BGKYK5 said:
That is one of the reasons I went with flex line the whole way. I HATE double flaring. It never comes out right with the crappy tools I can afford. :mad:
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i never thought of that...hmmmm where did u get it and how much was it to do that if u dont mind me asking
 
I got my braided stainless lines custom made by these guys. They were about $65 shipped. IIRC, they are both 38" long with 3/16 IF male at the "T" and a 3/8" banjo at the caliper. I think I paid a buck a foot more to get a clear plastic cover over the braided stainless to help protect against abrasion. They are DOT approved (be sure to ask for DOT approved if you need it). I found out about those guys in this thread. There is also some more info in my blog.
 
BGKYK5 said:
I got my braided stainless lines custom made by these guys. They were about $65 shipped. IIRC, they are both 38" long with 3/16 IF male at the "T" and a 3/8" banjo at the caliper. I think I paid a buck a foot more to get a clear plastic cover over the braided stainless to help protect against abrasion. They are DOT approved (be sure to ask for DOT approved if you need it). I found out about those guys in this thread. There is also some more info in my blog.
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o awesome, thanks a lot!:bow:
 
fireplug said:
I guess mine is missing the factory tabs (from hard to flex). Now I have something to copy, I mean emulate! :D
Click to expand...

The factory drum brake setups used hard line all the way to the wheel cylinder, so there were no hard-to-flex tabs. (A caliper moves, but the wheel cylinder is stationary).

I just mounted the tabs on the bolts passing through the caliper bracket and spacer into the stock mounting flange. For flex line, I am using the same ones front and rear. Super simple.

EDIT: wait, I take that back, the rear has stock front hoses for some other vehicle. They are pretty short. The front has extened length hoses. But the fittings are the same and the calipers are the same front and back.
 
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Blue85 said:
The factory drum brake setups used hard line all the way to the wheel cylinder, so there were no hard-to-flex tabs. (A caliper moves, but the wheel cylinder is stationary).

I just mounted the tabs on the bolts passing through the caliper bracket and spacer into the stock mounting flange. For flex line, I am using the same ones front and rear. Super simple.
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What keeps the hardline in place on a factory setup then? Mine was ghetto hose clamps, but I'd like to clean that up.
 
fireplug said:
What keeps the hardline in place on a factory setup then? Mine was ghetto hose clamps, but I'd like to clean that up.
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there r these little loops, kind of like on bicycles where u route the brake/shifter cables. but just a little different for our trucks.
 
fireplug said:
What keeps the hardline in place on a factory setup then? Mine was ghetto hose clamps, but I'd like to clean that up.
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In the shop we refer to them as "hammer tabs". Basically a small thin piece of sheet metal welded to the axle tube on one end. Line sits between the tab and the tube with a rubber isolator. Loose end of tab is generally tapped down tight with a hammer.
 
cybrfire said:
In the shop we refer to them as "hammer tabs". Basically a small thin piece of sheet metal welded to the axle tube on one end. Line sits between the tab and the tube with a rubber isolator. Loose end of tab is generally tapped down tight with a hammer.
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Huh? LOL!

I'll have to google that one.
 
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