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Let's talk battery isolators

Plumber'sCrack

Plumber'sCrack

1/2 ton status
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Oct 6, 2021
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Location
Jacksonville, FL
Rewiring the mud truck again, getting rid of my rats nest from the first time I did it 10 years ago (ugly but funtional) and want to put an isolator in it this time, while also having a master power switch. Where are the electric guru's in here? School me
Both batteries are in the back. Gonna mount the fuse/relay box on firewall where my wiring abortion currently resides.

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Following I know very little about isolators
but as time has goes by I always go back to my previous wiring jobs and hate them. When I do redo them I've prefer non insulated crimp barrels with heat shrink along with my label maker and plenty of zip ties to help clean everything up. Making it easier to troubleshoot shoot an ID wires.

What gauge wires are you using for your battery cables
 
#ACRsFTW

quite a few ways to do this.... diode isolators have improved.. but I'm still an ACR fan myself... I'll see if i have time later to go more in depth.. or drudge up one of my old rants/posts...


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TJ1978 said:
What does it even do?
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isolator systems do exactly that.. they keep multiple bats separate so you always have a back up generally..

this can be VASTLY manipulated tho, if you start throwing various bat switches and wiring configs at it too..

marine 1, 2, all switches can add many varieties to wiring a rig... my K5 is pretty over the top in that regard.... Mutt is actually simpler, and cooler IMO.. and it will always stay charged by the main bat with an isolator in the system...... you can run the rig on one bat, have your winch, lights, etc all on another... in a pinch, you can combine/parallel the 2 bats and have juice again..

leave your stereo, lights, etc on...
 
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just as a "what can possibly be done" with bat components...

that Mutt dual bat tray has an ACR mounted in the center of divider wall.. on either side of that is a remote fired bat switch.... those switches kill all juice right at the bats.. stout connections.. those switches can be operated manually via the yellow knobs on em in a pinch... like a drag car has in back...

but generally they are each remote fired by a momentary switch in the ashtray..... the center red momentary is to parallel the bats in an emergency using the ACR...

excuse the unfinished parts of this pic.... :doah:




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it's pretty cool when you get in the rig and hit the switches and hear the actual switches "clunk" in the back of the rig... I should do a vid of that... :haha:




maybe tomorrow I'll get into the plus's and minus's of diodes and ACR's IMKO...
 
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FTR.... this can also be done vastly easier employing a semi cheap diode isolator, relay and switch.. and that can be modified to some degree also per need.. ala Hellroaring, etc... or even a cheap 1, 2, all marine switch to some extent...

so don't let my over the top kook level build stuff scare anyone away.. :o
 
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ryoken said:
FTR.... this can also be done vastly easier employing a semi cheap diode isolator, relay and switch.. and that can be modified to some degree also per need.. ala Hellroaring, etc... or even a cheap 1, 2, all marine switch to some extent...

so don't let my over the top kook level build stuff scare anyone away.. :o
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That's next level stuff right there. I ordered this fuse/relay box so that will help my cause

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MEMO43 said:
Following I know very little about isolators
but as time has goes by I always go back to my previous wiring jobs and hate them. When I do redo them I've prefer non insulated crimp barrels with heat shrink along with my label maker and plenty of zip ties to help clean everything up. Making it easier to troubleshoot shoot an ID wires.

What gauge wires are you using for your battery cables
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Haven't made new ones yet. My old ones were made from welding leads. Stout.
 
I use a sure power 1314-200, smart solenoid. It will close if either battery is above 13.2v and open at 12.8v. There is 1315-200 that only senses the main battery voltage. I may have the part numbers backwards not sure.
Is an Eaton company.
 
I use a blue seas si-acr to isolate my “house” battery. It allows both batteries to be charged from the alternator or my solar panel if we’re parked. I’d mount them as close to the battery you’re isolating as possible.

The batteries in the back need large gauge wiring from the power source to reduce current drop. 0 gauge welding cable works well. I also use a blue seas disconnect switch as close to the power source or where ever is convenient for wiring and access.

Additionally, I always run a large fuse when power leaves the battery.
 
This is more or less how our setup is done aside from solar wiring. I put the battery disconnect on the main line to the rear in your case. In our truck, it is on the lead going into the camper.
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Plumber'sCrack said:
Rewiring the mud truck again, getting rid of my rats nest from the first time I did it 10 years ago (ugly but funtional) and want to put an isolator in it this time, while also having a master power switch. Where are the electric guru's in here? School me
Both batteries are in the back. Gonna mount the fuse/relay box on firewall where my wiring abortion currently resides.

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I went real cheap in my isolator situation. Went with the blue one from Napa auto parts for one battery in my snow wheeler. I hooked it up under the hood, then ran a main line to the Bimart coach battery in the bed. I run solar as well, so I hooked up a battery monitor gauge. So far, with 100 amp, folding Harbor freight solar panels and upgrade controller, everything works great, and with the solar, I can keep my roof top tent, heater, fridge, all my led lights going for however long I need. I put the battery in a battery box and attached a battery shut off with the pull out red key on that. That way I can run off the coach battery only if I’m out having fun.
 
My setup is very simple. Dual factory battery trays, dual alternators, so no isolator required. Between them is a manual open/parallel switch for dual alt/batt winching or jump starting.
 
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