let's talk crossover steering on the cheap

[brans87]

I know ORD is Great guy's! I am just on a budget with everything I do or want to do. So let's talk about how to do crossover steering on a 87 K5 on a budget. Any kit's you would recommend? I see some kit's on ebay with the pass side REID knuckle but not 100% on best deals for my 10 bolt front.

Anyone want to give some insight?

 

[Blue85]

How much lift do you have? Part of the advantage to the ORD system are the short body DLEs, that let you put the DL bend very close to the pitman arm. Without that, it's hitting the crossmember. Now if you have an aftermarket engine crossmember or can fabricate one, you get around that problem.

The old mud truck cheap crossover setup is to flip the tie rod around or use a different combination of TREs to get a steering stabilizer hole on the passenger side. Then build the drag link to connect there - so it's not "full" crossover, but like a Y-link, like Jeep steering. That eliminates the need for the second steering arm, but also gives worse geometry. Many here have expressed concern with using this kind of setup on the street.

 

[max 02]

How much lift do you have? Part of the advantage to the ORD system are the short body DLEs, that let you put the DL bend very close to the pitman arm. Without that, it's hitting the crossmember. Now if you have an aftermarket engine crossmember or can fabricate one, you get around that problem.

The old mud truck cheap crossover setup is to flip the tie rod around or use a different combination of TREs to get a steering stabilizer hole on the passenger side. Then build the drag link to connect there - so it's not "full" crossover, but like a Y-link, like Jeep steering. That eliminates the need for the second steering arm, but also gives worse geometry. Many here have expressed concern with using this kind of setup on the street.

Don`t you need to change the arm on the steering box for that too!? Thought that is what Norcal Chris had done but I can`t find his post about it now.
I`m interested in doing the "Cheep" way on my kids 77.

 

[toomany]

Either way you would need a 2wd box or a different arm for the stock one (if there is even one out there).

2wd swing left/right. 4wd are front/back.

In reality, the most expensive part is the knuckle for the passanger side. Everything else can be found/fab'd fairly cheap.

Fwiw: I've got a matching set of stock flat top knuckles from my 70 I saved before scraping the axle. I already have another set ready to go, so I'd make a decent deal on the stock ones if anybody is interested.

 

[dremu]

You can change the sector shaft on the steering box to swap on the new arm, without changing the box. Can even do it in the truck.

-- A

 

[blazinzuk]

I see no problem doing the y link style steering. It is the cheap way to do crossover but it still requires most of the stuff that a system that uses the arm.

The y link leaves some to be desired in geometry but better than factory, using the steering arm makes the geometry even better.

This kit from ruff stuff

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com...&Product_Code=YLINK&Category_Code=STEERINGKIT

Along with these to make it over the knuckle

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com...duct_Code=INSSTEER-2PK&Category_Code=TRESTEER

And a dropped pitman arm and there you go.

But here is ( from ruff stuff again). Xover
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com...&Product_Code=R2144&Category_Code=STEERINGKIT

Of course you will need a knuckle drilled to accept it and you have to figure out making both knuckles match their tapers using the stock tie rod but there are smaller tapered inserts that can be used.

Lots of ways to go really

 

[max 02]

Found what Chris did on his old blazer.... Hope you don't mind. @NorCal_Chris?

https://ck5.com/forums/threads/73-1ton-k5-norcal-budget-build-my-first-trail-break.269737/page-9

 

[Blue85]

I don't know where you buy just a 2WD sector shaft, but you can get a gear for like $50 at U-pull (take it with the pitman arm attached of course). I don't know if swapping the sector shaft is really less work than swapping the box, but it would pay off if you could get it from a "bad" or leaking gear.

Unless it's for demolition derby, you shouldn't make many compromises on the steering.