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Lets talk fuel tank(s) for me...

pulling my hair out.. cant find anything anywhere... of course if you search 1987.. you get wiring for that back to ecu, 5 wired dual tank solenoid.. not what I need.

grrrr.. still searching... I am also seeing that my dual tank solenoid is most likely only good to 30psi which is fine while I'm doing carb; however, if I go 8.1L and need 65+ psi.. not going to work. so I best start thinking out more. I guess I'm going to have to lean more towards a single tank. was going to do suburban tank a while ago but I have a hitch in the back and winch plate so tank cant go there. then I have the 2 piece driveshaft so tougher to do in middle of truck.... hmmm I don't want to go back to body lift but may need to do a 2-3" and fit a tank under bed before the rear tire...

never knew trying to decide on what to do for dual tanks/high psi and into a 78 could be so challenging!!!!
 
If the tank valve doesn't hold the high psi needed for a 8.1 then just stick with a single 20 gal tank. How often do you drive it that you really need more than 20 gallons?
 
Chevy305 said:
If the tank valve doesn't hold the high psi needed for a 8.1 then just stick with a single 20 gal tank. How often do you drive it that you really need more than 20 gallons?
Click to expand...
yeah I agree...
I don't drive much BUT @ 9mpg easy driving... that is what.. 180 miles.. max.. LOL... so drive to trails.. hit gas few times in mud holes... then go fillup?

but I agree.. started looking at suburban tanks 31g.. but then all that customization, body lift to get fill neck above frame rail, etc.. grrr hah.. yeah may as well just go 1 tank...and yes I know.. I can do a 2nd tank as a storage only tank and do a transfer pump which I did not want to do. so do 1 tank NOW and decide later after motor swap... which wont be for years anyway...
 
ok so forget everything going backwards LOL..
so stick with stock 20g tank..

but still the question lingers. To do an 87 tank with the 87 float will be fine for carb (still needs regulator) for in tank fuel pump.
BUT then do the 96 pump later. I still do not know how to wire it up. I still see the dual plug plus ground.. so other than ground, I guess the dual plug is hot and.....???
 
I don't see a point in buying two fuel pumps when you'll have to run a regulator regardless. I would just buy the high pressure pump and make sure the return was equal size to the supply so the return doesn't restrict flow and create too much pressure for a carb.

The two wire connector is pump positive, and fuel gauge.
 
So i k ow nothing about regulators... so you set regulator to psi then there is a return line? Didnt know that
 
Ok stuff in my amazon cart... Ready to order.. but let me know if you think this is the best idea for now..

decision of drivers side or passenger side tank...
I'm thinking drivers.. when you pull up to a pump.. drivers side seems best...

so I can get drivers side setup and later get a passenger side tank and do a transfer switch/pump if I need it as I don't drive it much..

my plan is to get a few things done... exhaust, fix steering issue (too much play) and make it enjoyable to drive. bias ply tires don't help but when you add all the others it is a real pita ....

so the question...
drivers side tank or passenger side for initial?
 
Personal preference--but when my truck still had dual tanks I often "forgot" the tank I was using (that didn't leak) was on the passenger side,and I'd pull up to the "wrong" pump half the time,and have to turn the truck around,or wait in line again...when that tank started weeping and I found a good used tank,I put it on the drivers side..(and then found out the sending unit was NG after it was all installed !..:doah:)..

I vote drivers side!..
 
i tend to favor driver side my self as primary tank .

but now with world built cars there is a lot more pass side filler necks on vehicles .

found these on another side . be nice to do this for filling .

fuel tank 4.jpg

fuel tank 3.jpg

fuel tank 2.jpg

fuel tank 1.jpg
 
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I vote passenger side, every time I pull up to a gas station the pumps on the passenger side always seem to be more available than the ones on my driver's side.
 
Finally bit the bullet for drivers..i like the tube crossover idea. Ill get a passenger side tank later then look at doing that like this summer. Plan on taking bed off and going over things
 
I know you already pulled the trigger on drivers side... But I'll still throw my .02 in. I like passenger side for weight distribution, 20 gallons of gas weighs as much as me.

And yes, I realize that the ~300lbs makes very little to no difference in a 6000lbs truck
 
frankin5 said:
When I had dual tank on my old CJ 5, I ran two electric fuel return switches. 1 for the fuel and 1 for the return line. Double throw double pole switch changed tanks and sending units all in one operation.
Standard Motor Products FV1T Fuel Selector Valve
3.6 out of 5 stars 19
$33.89 Prime
7 used and new from $33.62
Click to expand...


I do have a dual tank selector valve and going to use it; however, the issue comes IF and ONLY IF I do an LS or 8.1L swap with high pressure. these are not rated for high pressure....

I have this one.. 1 wire.. 1 fuel 1 vent per side...

419cmYby-eL.jpg
 
sweetk30 said:
i tend to favor driver side my self as primary tank .

but now with world built cars there is a lot more pass side filler necks on vehicles .

found these on another side . be nice to do this for filling .

View attachment 253856

View attachment 253857

View attachment 253858

View attachment 253859
Click to expand...
I had one of those when i bought my 88 crew cab new and it worked great. i want to get one for the crew cab i have now. back then i could just go down to local shop now i guess ill have to have one custom built,
 
so since I'm not going to be doing high pressure anytime soon (well tbi is higher than carb right? I have a regulator coming too)...

so next question..
(should you drive the in tank pump with a relay or is it ok straight from say accessory?)
answered my own question... so the relay will STILL allow for better current, etc so I will use one so next question.. errr first question on relay?
do I need a 30a relay? this is for the fuel pump for a 1987 in tank pump... oh wait.. off to amazon.com to see if it says what size relay that truck has.. LOL... I may answer it before you!!!!

*******edited...
ok I'm back.. well dayum..
Amperage (A): 30
 
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finally installed this into my truck and it works. well sorta. Fuel pump works and all but the gauge is now past F...
so we took the sender out... Will my old gauge work on the newer sending unit?
with the sending unit out, we hit with continuity tester. My old one... reads 0 at empty and 0.08 if we move the float up all the way representing F
if we do that with the new one... it is 8.something.. like 8.02 and goes up to 8.08 when we move it to F...

trying to figure out if I have a bad new sending unit or what...
 
The sending unit should see a swing of about 0-90 ohms. Clean up your grounds and make sure the tank switch is reading the correct tank.
 
went to autozone, napa and advanced auto... they all had to order from the hub. advanced will have it today. will ohm out theirs and see..

will continuity test them. if it works.. ill just call amazon as I bought it from amazon warehouse and see how to get warranty replacement. should be 1 year... if not hell $65 with pump ill buy another. advanced wants $97 with tax and no pump!!!!
 
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