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Lift and drivetrain decision - looking for theory validation

87Whitey

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Aug 22, 2005
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Hey all, this is my first post to the forums, I am glad I found this site...I have looked and searched on many topics and found a lot of great information. I have been wheeling burbs for the last 2 years, come from a Jeep background in which I have owned, built, and wheeled Jeeps (YJs, TJs, XJs, SJs) for the last 17 years. Sorry for being so long, but figure more info is better

I have some bonus money coming in from work and am ready to do some upgrades to my 87 burb. I would like to see some comments on my thoughts since spring rates and there effect on burbs is an area I do not have a lot of knowledge. I am not building a rock crawler, I am trying to build for a long highway ride (to get to the backcountry), choppy forest trails, muddy sites, water fording, and some technical trails that have mild rocky areas...
I spend most of my wheeling time in Southern CO around the Ouray area so trails like Black bear and Poughkeepsie, then around Blanca peak

Todays specs:

87 Burb 1/2 ton with 350 FI, 700R4, and NP208 (these are all in great shape)
Corp 10 front and rear
Stock leafs with Quad front shocks
32x11.5s on stock rims
fresh exhuast system from manifold back (high flow cat, and flowmaster 50)

What I would like/plan to do:

Snorkle:Plans for a built it custom to go up the passenger side with an outlet near roof line
Axles: Replace 10 bolt rear with spare 12 bolt I already have, I would re-gear front and rear to 4.56 or 4.88 (thick gearset for 12bolt) and add a TrueTrac to the 12 bolt leaving the 10bolt front open...I figure since I have the 12bolt sitting around I would spend the money on it instead of the 10bolt under the burb now.
Tires: 35 or 36 x 12.5s on the stock 15" steel rims (do you think a 16" upgrade for greater load capacity would be worth it?)

Lift: I want to go as low as possible to keep COG lower...I am thinking a 4" lift and some fender trimming would clear these...I plan to use a higher rate spring such as the BDS, Tough Country HD's, Rough Country, or Superlift
I am not looking for the most flex and would prefer reduced axle rap to flex...how rough are the Rough Country on the Burbs...I always here the K5 guys complaining, but the Burb has significantly more weight and a longer wheelbase....this is the area that I have the most need for help on, I carry alot of wieght when I travel...roof rack, gas, spare parts, tools, camping gear, 2 100+ pound dogs...since this is not my daily driver I would sacrifice unloaded vehicle ride for increased loaded ride. Also, would a stiff spring (ie..less flex) in a 3" lift and some fender trimming be sufficient for 35's on the stock rims
I have this nailed on Jeeps (ie...spring rate, lift height, ratios,etc...) just need some helpful advice from you long term K guys

I appreciate the help on this, I am building now for a trip to BC and up into Alaska come mid-summer 2006, so I am trying to create a long distance, relatively sound (break free), all trail vehicle.

Thanks
Steve

:bow:
 
I have RCs and there fine for me there a little rough but ITS A TRUCK so I dont want it to drive like a car. I had 35" MTRs with the 4.56s it was too low ( I dont have OD) but was fine with th 37" h1 radials I had. I recomend the MTRs for a dd. If you plan on the snorkle, make sure your not choking your motor out. Hope some of this helps
 
Excellent info guys
I think I will hold on the 12bolt install and grab up a 14FF
there are actually a few 3/4 and 1tons trucks around here for decent prices...may try to grab one up for a doner
 
yeah the 14bff is definetly worth it, i put one under my 89 3/4 sub. personally id go with what i wish i had done to begin with. tuff country 4" EZ rides in the front and some HDs or BDSs in the rear... i ran 4" and 36" TSLs for a long time and trimmed the fronts out. pound the inner fenders back so when the tire rubs they cant grab any edges.
 

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