lift, clearance, cage and other misc ?s sub specific

Discussion in '1936-Present Suburban' started by mini_mull, Mar 5, 2005.

  1. mini_mull

    mini_mull 1/2 ton status

    Jan 22, 2005
    Likes Received:
    Queen Creek, AZ
    At the risk of being one of those people that asks annoying lift, tire, and driveline ?'s that are rig specific, and can't exactly be answered on a board anyhow, I'm going to ask anyway because the Sub forum has been pretty slow for awhile and I figure I'll ask my annoying ?s now while things are slow.

    I'm planning on doing a major swap all at the same time for my '87 V10 Burb to avoid doing things twice and take advantage of help when I have it . :woot: Here's the plan:
    14B FF 4.56gears, matching 10B or 8 lug conv and regearing of current 10B
    3" HD Tuff Country Lift with rear 3" springs (HD for winch in future)
    ORD HD Shackles
    33x12.50 BFG A/T KOs
    US Wheel 84 Series Black Steel Wheels 16x10 w/4.375 BS or 16x8 w/4.25 BS
    There's more stuff too, but I think this is everything relevant to the ?s, if not ask. Very long version is here but it includes extra stuff for later.

    1.Is 3" TC enough to clear the above tires with no rubbing or cutting the fenders (on pavement and/or offroad)?
    2.Will I need to run the 16x8's or will I still have no rubbing issues with 16x10s?
    3.Will the burb still have butt sag with new tc springs on all fours?
    4.Will 3" cause any driveline angle or length issues?
    5.Will I need to drop the tcase?
    6.Will I need shims?
    7.Should I get Zero Rates JIC?
    8.How many inches will the front end drop w/HD springs if I add a bumper (ie 4x4iron front square) with winch (M12000 unless I need M15000)?
    9.Will the back end drop with a HD bumper (ie 4x4iron tire carrier bumper)?
    10.Totally off topic, but will a Smittybuilt bolt in roll bar fit right in a burb, then can I use the weld in kit for the front and just need a tube bent for behind the front seat (need a mild cage to keep me from having heart attacks when the hubby drives up hunting trails I'd go end over backwards on a quad in with a sheer cliff on one or both sides)?

    I'm going with the 3" because I want to stay as low as possible (still family DD with small kids) , but LOVE 33x12.50s on everything 4wd, and hate cutting my fenders. I've researched every topic on this and other 4x4 sites (this ones the best BTW Pirate close second) to no end (my hubby is sick of me staying up all hours of the night/morning online for over a month now). I've seen lots of info on k5s, and 2", 4", 6" lifts, but not alot on Subs or 3". The search engine won't take anything less than four letter words, so that's been a pain. wa, wa, wa. :) I put a 4" with rear blocks on my 87 K10 sb with 33x12.50 BFGs 5 yrs ago with no other adjustments, but I figure things might be different with a Sub's longer wb (bought a new steering arm, but it was exactly the same as the one on the truck, so didn't change it). Sorry for not having more technical questions, but I can usually find sufficient answers to those by searching the past threads at least enough to expand my limited knowledge by leaps and bounds. Anyways, sorry for being so long winded, and if anything doesn't make sense :screwy:, let me know, it's late and I should have been fast asleep hours ago. Oh, and sorry for apologizing too much.:D Thanks in advance.
  2. Muddytazz

    Muddytazz 1 ton status

    Jun 30, 2002
    Likes Received:
    Salem, Or.

    Here is my personal thoughts for ya.
    The 3" springs will work with the 16 x 8's, MIGHT have a slight rubbing with the 16 x 10's, but if your going to be also doing heavier bumpers front and rear with winches, I'd personally step up to the 4" all spring lift. As far as the saggy butt problem, I put in some zero rates in the rear of my burb cause I don't like the saggy butt look when loaded. When I'm unloaded, the rear sits slightly higher than the front yes, but it only like 1/2"-1" higher and doesn't look bad at all in my opinion.
    I'm running 4" rancho's on the front of my burb and had to shim it with a 4* shim(I bought them used from another member on here and they did not come with the original shims so I made my own), but brand new lift springs should already come with the APPROPRIATE(sp?)shims and I did not lower my tcase at all. Some people will say to lower it, some will say you don't need too. Best thing here is to drive it without lowering it first, and if you notice things wantind to bind up, then try lowering it.
    Depending on the springs you purchase will depend on if your front and rear will drop with the added weight of heavier bumpers and winches(that is why I suggested to just step up and get the 4" springs instead of the 3").
    Can't answer the smitty built roll bar issue as I don't have one in mine, others might know this, I'm just planning on building one for my burb from scratch from dash to barn doors.

    Good luck with all this and post up some pics of the progress :thumb:
  3. muddysub

    muddysub 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator GMOTM Winner

    Jun 23, 2001
    Likes Received:
    my garage, Henderson, NV
    1. yes and no... if you flex it up anough it will rub... keep the swaybar on it and youll probably be ok.
    2. 16x8s will be fine, they'll make the tire stand a little taller so may cause more rubbing. 16x10s are cool too but if you air down theyll blow beads easier.
    3. nope (whats wrong with the saggybutt look? i love it)
    4. nope
    5. no, this doesnt really help anyway. it puts more of anangle on the front shaft, and yes its a CV its still bad. and the rear shafts on suburbans are long enough that you wont have any problem.
    6. nope
    7. only if you want the front to sit higher than the rear which u seemed to be concerned about.
    8. 1-2"
    9. yeah prolly about an inch
    10. not sure about the pre built cage... never looked into it.

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