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lift finally and questions

daylton

1/2 ton status
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Feb 26, 2012
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Fair Oaks CA
before i lift my truck 79 jimmy is there anything i need to get (steer brace kit etc....)
 
im going 4" with springs no blocks or shackle flip.. and i have 33" tires for now eventually 35" tires
 
i would do 3" front and 1" zero rate with axle forward 1" or the 1.5" forward to help clear the back of the fenders with 35" for off road flex.

then 4" rear for stock sag look. if no sag rear grab a zero rate ontop of the 4" springs and run it stright up no movment of axle.

but 4" or more in rear of blazers/jimmys can possible require c/v head driveshaft for vibrations. got to install and road test to be sure if needed.

raised steering arm good to help stock steering.

and if me and lots of dd duty or most flex get greasable bushings all the way around for better flex and ride as you can grease them every now and then.
 
Yes, definitely get a steering box brace. Also inspect the frame at the box for cracks, just because it's stock doesn't mean it's not cracked.
 
okay may be dumb question but what is the purpose of a zero rate spring?

Gives you an honest 1" of extra lift that doesn't increase the spring rate (as in make it more stiff which a lot of aftermarket lift springs do). Plus it gives you the ability to move the axle forward because these trucks tend to hit the back of the fender before the front.
Don't get too caught up in the ck5 recipe though. If it's just a driver and light wheeler an off the shelf 4" lift with steering correction and a frame brace is just fine.
 
well, i just got into the wheeling community, and i am doing light but increasing everytime i go out. so would that be the better case than doing a reg 4" n cutting fender wells?
 
Personal preference. I started with lots of lift and no trimming and over the years have lowered the truck a few times. This last go around it's getting 40's on 4 inches of lift with massive trimming. Offroad design offers great packages for lifting these trucks from a few inches to whatever you want. Might want to check their site out for more ideas.
 
Would moving the axle a inch forward require cross over? Or will the stock push pull work just fine?
 
Would moving the axle a inch forward require cross over? Or will the stock push pull work just fine?
1" you can compensate, more than that it gets hard, the drag link becomes too short and very little flex will make big bump steer.
 
What do you mean by compensate, like making changes to the steering system?

Sorry for my questions, don't mean to hijack but I think it fits in this thread.
 
What do you mean by compensate, like making changes to the steering system?

Sorry for my questions, don't mean to hijack but I think it fits in this thread.
meaning shortening the drag link.
The adjustment gives about 1" of room shorter, but no more.
You will need to trim a bit of the end of the rods too so they can get closer and make the drag ling shorter.
 
hmm interesting, i got quoted from ccor at 489 with 52 inch springs for the rear.
it seems it is more work to move the axle forward an inch, does it give you any better flex being a zero rate or no
 
hmm interesting, i got quoted from ccor at 489 with 52 inch springs for the rear.
it seems it is more work to move the axle forward an inch, does it give you any better flex being a zero rate or no

The EZ inch does absolutely nothing positive or negative to affect the "rate" or "flex" of the spring, hence the name "zero rate". Its not a block, its not a spring, all it does is give you 1 extra inch of lift by bolting into the spring pack. It also gives you the option of moving the axle either forward or back 1'' or 1.5'' if need be for numerous reasons, fender clearance, driveline angles, wheelbase length, etc... Just owner preference. :waytogo:
 
oh... okay hmm still not sure what route i want. probably without the zero for now and if i change my mind switch it ?
 
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