Skipto said:
i'm goign to run 38s on the truck and i'm looking not to cut the fenders. if posable i am geting a 454 for it soon to rebuild. i also get great deals on the sepention lift so i plan to go big haha. i want to jum to get in the f er haha. if i don't go all out then no point buying one haha. i want to mud it and never get stuck. (trought my swap haha) i have big plan and a good job to fund this. that and i love working on cars/ trucks. i'm scared of ****ing up the shaf angles and **** sence ths will be my first lift. body lift wont be has big of a deal i have done that befor. the rear floor was harder ahha. all custom haha.
no one answered does the 68 drive line fit and whats the gearing in them front and rear difs ?
Yes I did, I said it's all different.
Just to let you know....
With a little
you can run 38's with about a 4-6" suspension lift with no body lift, and good flex, and you'll still plough through the mud.
If you have a manual, the front d/s will be shorter and the rear longer than if you were to have an automatic. AFAIK there have always been gear options for the dif's offered from the factory, so if you trust them to be stock look inside the glove box for the RPO code, or if not just pop off a diff cover and look on the ring gear for the tooth count.
With 8" of lift you will most like HAVE to go with custom d/s (as apposed to just modified stock). It would be the better way to go anyways. With 38's as well, there isn't a stock gear out there deep enough for you. Source a good 14BFF for the rear, and either a D60 for the front or a 3/4 equipment (hubs and brakes mostly) to modify the 1/2 D44 that's under there into a 3/4 D44. With your hot rod heritage avoid going the D60 rear route, the 14BFF just might have been secretly designed for lifted trucks without GM knowing about it. AMEN GM
I would go with the D60 (front) if you have a good job to fund it, you should be able to get a used one in good shape for less than $1K depending on where you live and the 14b's are max like $200.00 in most places. Or since you probably have a D60 rear hanging around, flip it over get the tubes cut and there are plenty of places that sell the yokes, knuckles, etc. to make it into a front axle. Poof, instant high-pinion D60 to save on some d/s angle problems. Just don't forget the reverse cut gears! Also it will be easy to adjust for caster at this point, since you'll be attaching the yokes.
Then some like 5.16's or deeper if you can find them, Detroit lockers front & Rear, a couple of High Angle drive shafts. Put a TH400 behind that 454 and back it up with an NP205. That should make a pretty killer mud setup. Just to let you know, all the flex in your truck will come from your frame.
With what your looking to do, stock just isn't really an option. Have fun.
i have been told i will need to get the front and rear end tilted so they drive don't bind or wear out on year time. does the lift come with any suck thing or do i have to buy a drop down kit as well to do this plz give me any info that may help. (First 4x4 project) I'm and old Lowrider hahah 
