Have 1988 Chevy Blazer, it’s already got Rough Country #8002R in front, #8200 in rear. My question is what mfg. makes a Better-not so soft spring kit & something to tighten up crappy steering up front. This front end is Scary-it will turn on a dime, barely touching steering !! I just put set of Bilstein shocks on my other truck & they Rock
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Lift Kit ??
- Thread starter MrHappy
- Start date
Rough Country is typically a the most harsh riding brand, not soft at all.
If your truck is “darty” and rides poorly I’d suggest checking all the bushings and also look at the frame around the steering box for cracking (common).
If your truck is “darty” and rides poorly I’d suggest checking all the bushings and also look at the frame around the steering box for cracking (common).
Whoever put this lift in on 3/4 to axles with rear leafs twisting & no shims didn’t no what they were doing!! I checked frame for cracking & didn’t see any,which IS a Big problem with these models.And still wonder why Chevy has never done any corrections to fix it ! Thank You for input.
Rear leafs twisting?
You don’t ALWAYS need shims, I don’t run any.
You don’t ALWAYS need shims, I don’t run any.
I've never shimmed either, the rear overload typically always twist.
I run tuff country ez ride fronts, with a bilstein shock. It rides decent.
I have heard good things about bds springs as well.
The shock is going to make a huge difference in ride quality, a cheap lift kit shock will not dampen properly and will affect ride quality.
I run tuff country ez ride fronts, with a bilstein shock. It rides decent.
I have heard good things about bds springs as well.
The shock is going to make a huge difference in ride quality, a cheap lift kit shock will not dampen properly and will affect ride quality.
Ya rear lower leafs are twisting, overload & next two up. U-bolts are not close enough to perch . Yes I believe the shocks are cheap too .
How big are your tires? Why not lower it down some?
Pictures..post them
Tires Falken LT315/75R16 = to 34.6” . They have 90% tread left. I do want to lower it down some. That’s why I’ve been inquiring about a Good Reliable Lift mfg. If these leaf’s are 8” I would like to go TO 6”. It has leaf fronts & rear, No blocks.
Measure the space between axle tube and snubber perch. This help I'd the amount of lift.
How much $$ are you looking to spend?
Is truck ever going to flex for rock crawler type wheeling?
35" will fit with 4" lift and proper wheel back space.
How much $$ are you looking to spend?
Is truck ever going to flex for rock crawler type wheeling?
35" will fit with 4" lift and proper wheel back space.
I don’t want to spend a lot of money on suspension , this Blazer needs a lot of mechanical stuff done also. I’m not going Xrteme rock crawler, just mild. I’m taking it in & having 3/4 ton axles gone thru & thinking of putting in ARB locker in rear. That too depends on what he does or doesn’t find wrong with them. I would like to lower to 4”, I don’t like the height it is now, Way to tall ..For what kind of wheeling I do. So I guess after really talking about it & thinking about it - screw the lift that’s on here & get a 4” lift kit …. Thank You Wes H.
For bang for the buck....
Tuff country 4 inch springs
Ord or diy4x shackle flip with stock height springs.
Bilstien shocks at all corners.
Will ride good, from there you can build off of it and upgrade as you go.
Tuff country 4 inch springs
Ord or diy4x shackle flip with stock height springs.
Bilstien shocks at all corners.
Will ride good, from there you can build off of it and upgrade as you go.
Steering that is sensitive or darty is not a product of stiff or soft springs. The steering box could be adjusted wrong or the caster is way off. Could be both.
I’ve had the same rough country springs for close to 20 years between two trucks and I can say the steering was not “tight”.
Look over everything on the front end. Ball joints, tie rod ends, etc.
As far as the driveshaft angles out back you need to look at the read shaft for a cv joint. Reason being with as much lift as yours has the driveshaft angles typically are too much to get anywhere near the standard of 2 degrees opposing. The cv shaft takes care of the problem but it will require the pinion angle and the shaft angle to match.
If you do drop the rear down you’ll have to readjust the driveline angles again.
I’ve had the same rough country springs for close to 20 years between two trucks and I can say the steering was not “tight”.
Look over everything on the front end. Ball joints, tie rod ends, etc.
As far as the driveshaft angles out back you need to look at the read shaft for a cv joint. Reason being with as much lift as yours has the driveshaft angles typically are too much to get anywhere near the standard of 2 degrees opposing. The cv shaft takes care of the problem but it will require the pinion angle and the shaft angle to match.
If you do drop the rear down you’ll have to readjust the driveline angles again.
just an FYI for you and everyone else; those part numbers correspond to what Rough County lists for a 4" spring for a Chevy.
post some pics and like was said; measure from the top of the axle to the bottom of the bump stop mount
How many inches would a 4" or 6" lift be?
no lift is 8.5"
Stock is about 8.5”.
