What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

lift plan

chris85

chris85

1/2 ton status
 Premium
Joined
May 16, 2006
Posts
1,320
Reaction score
1,225
Location
vicksburg, mississippi
Hey ya'll. Just wanted to let ya'll check out my plans for lifting the jimmy and give up any comments/advice that may be helpful.

It is an 89 jimmy and I want a total of about 6 inches give or take a little.

For the front I want to do 52" spring swap with some 2" lift springs. But on the 52" swap I plan on moving the front spring hanger directly underneath the body mount. I've read that some people on here have done that and it allows the axle to stay in the same location. That'll keep me from needing a zero rate, hopefully.

For the rear I plan to put on a 4" shackle flip and 2" springs again.

Now for tires I am having trouble deciding. I want to run the 37x13 boggers, but I know 1/2 axle won't handle them for long. Eventually I want to do a d60/14b swap. So i've been throwing around ideas. Should I just go with some 35's for now until I'm ready for the 1 tons, should I just go ahead and put the 37's on and "drive carefully" lol, or should I try to be patient and do everything at once? Would 10 bolts hold up to 36's ok?

There are no rocks here in MS, just mud. And the amount of wheeling I get to do is not much. Kinda the reason I don't want to do the d60 right now, because I think it might be overkill for my needs at this point.

Anyway, let me know what ya'll think. thanks
 
Sounds like you have a good plan so far but if it were me I'd wait and do it all at once. I thought I'd save time by putting my lift on then swap my one tons and that would be less I had to do. Boy was I wrong. I had to tear everything back down again. One good thing that did come out of it though was that I learned alot about my truck since I spent a pretty good amount of time under it deciding what to do next. But whatever your budget will allow and how quick you want to use your truck will be the deciding factor.
 
i geuss if you blow your 10bolt to hell on 37's(which you will) then that's a good reason to go 1ton. i threw around the idea you are...but just decided to bite the bullet and get a 60/14FF combo....which i just aquired the other day. but it seems that i am dumping more and more money into the axle just to get it where i wanna be.
 
you will blow then 10-bolts with 35's... do the dana 60 and 14-bolt FF swap all at the same time. also, if you are going for six inches, do 1350 cv's and 1410 yokes for your differentials. this way you have strength, and if your pinion angle is right, you wont get driveline vibration.
 
Personally, I would not move the front hanger directly underneath the body mount. I was gonna do the same but because of the arch of the hanger, it has to be pressed in. I was not able to move it much with a 30 ton shop press but some people have had luck with it i guess. But more importantly, you have to drill new holes into it that end up being very close to the old ones and right at a crease in the metal-not very strong

I'm in the process of doing the swap as well, and have changed my mind to move it in front like everyone esle and make my own square driveshaft with extra slip. Do a search on it here and at pirate4x4, theres tons of info and i shouldnt cost more than $35. Your stock dshaft wont handle the extra slip and angle even wit hthe hanger under the body mount so you might as well.

Another option is to fabricate your own front hanger that is already flat. Wouldnt be too hard and could be made beefy as hell. I consiered this too, and maybe might still do it.

If your diong the 52" your gonna want (read: need) crossover steering because of all that flex. If your going to get a d60 eventaully anyway, then wait because you will have to get flattop knuckles for your 10b and have them tapped and reamed and all that which equals money wasted on something your not gonna keep around when you go 1 ton.

I have yet to brake anything in my open d44 on 35"s. But then again, my truck spends a whole lot more time up on jack stands in the driveway then down and dirty out wheelin. If your mostly doing mud, I'd keep the 10b if your sticking to 35-36". If your doing mud I dont see much reason for the 52" swap either. Just something to think about
 
well I guess I need to start looking for a d60 and 14b.

What year model trucks do I need to look for to get the axles from?

What about the dodge d60? I believe I've read that these can be used on the blazer/jimmy. What year model for the dodge d60 do I need to look for?

thanks
 
chris85 said:
well I guess I need to start looking for a d60 and 14b.

What year model trucks do I need to look for to get the axles from?

What about the dodge d60? I believe I've read that these can be used on the blazer/jimmy. What year model for the dodge d60 do I need to look for?

thanks
Click to expand...

I would go for 84-87 models... if you want to go with military gm axles, call Dave at Walker Auto in Hesperia, CA. (760) 244-8060. He usually has them brand new in the crates. so you may wanna check. I paid about $3200 for mine brand new. The D60 had a Dana Trac-Lock in it too from the factory. I can wheel it pretty hard and not break anything. The D60 is a direct bolt on, you do have to buy the U-Bolt and spring plate for the passenger side, but everything else bolts up. Also, change the yoke out of the D60 to either a 1350 or a 1410, because the D60 comes with a 1310.
 
chris85 said:
what about years for the dodge d60?
Click to expand...

most dodge front ends are ball-joints, instead of king-pin knuckles... would avoid dodge unless you find a king-pin style. Im not familiar with what years... but you could check this link out and see. If you read this entire article, you will be able to make a choice on which D60 you want.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/60_front/
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom