Lift PROBLEMS

[Bigmeats]

I just replaced my 4" front BLOCKS, yes i said blocks, with 4" BDS springs and also installed ORD's heavy duty front shakel.

With the blocks in i had no bump steer, or front drive shaft vibrations. I should also mention i have the raised steering arm for a 4" lift (i installed that with the blocks) Now after putting in the springs The vibarations from the front drive shaft is enough to make me lose my fillings and the bump steer is very bad. I notice that the front drive shaft is extended about 3/4 to 1 inch longer than it was before if that helps. My steering wheel is also off half a turn. Does the extra 1/2 inch of lift from the ORD shakels make that big of a difference, are they giving me a funky angle by pushing the rear of the spring down?

could the angles on the blocks have been preventing the above problems?

Sorry if this is hard to understand, I spent the whole night at blazerboys house doing all this work only to find these unexpected problems(THANKS for the hand bro) and it took me 2 hrs to get home but i made it. its now 1:35am

Nothing like trying to fix something the right way only to create more headaches for your self.

Any and all sugestions would be great!

Thankyou in advance!

Bigmeats

Carl...75 Blazer...Manhattan IL

 

[tRustyK5]

It sounds like the pinion angle has changed from where it was. I guess the old pinion angle wasn't measured before you started huh? That extra 1/2" of lift is the problem, imagine how many degrees the pinion must rotate to get that 1/2". I think a couple of degrees of shim might get the pinion back to where it was working.
I have built some extended front shackles for my Jimmy but haven't put them in yet. One of my concerns was the change in pinion angle. A degree shim should take care of it though. The steering can be re-centered using the drag-link. It has an adjustment sleeve on it. Loosen the 2 bolts and rotate the sleeve until the steering wheel is straight again. I have no idea how you would end up with a bump-steer problem in this situation.
Did you torque the u-bolts with the weight of the truck on the springs? How about the shackle bolts. It sounds like something may be binding.
Just thinking out loud so to speak, hope some of it might help.

Rene (Did those locks make it to you?)

 

[Corey-88K5]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't BDS springs directional? I thought the centering pins were off set, meaning that there was a certain front of the springs, and a certain rear. They had to be mounted in a specific way. Also, You don't really want to put shims on the front. It starts to pull the centering pins out of the pads on the axle. This is a VERY bad thing. The less contact you have with the pins in the pads, the less to help hold the axle under the front when braking.

Also, what T-case do you have? I'm guessing that you must have a 203 w/the full time still in the trans. If you put a part time kit in, that would allow you to not have to worry about the vibration so much. It should dissapear if the shaft isn't spinning.

Corey
88K5

<font color=red>Girls Like Guys In Bow Ties
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.geocities.com/corey_perez>http://www.geocities.com/corey_perez</A>

 

[Bigmeats]

DOH..... WE tightened all the bolts with the truck on jack stands!
somehow i thought we were not suppose to do this(ring any bells Bryan)

Will un doing all the bolts and retighting them with all the weight on the springs help at this point?

We took lots of pics of this project to do a "how to Tech artical" but its looking like its gonna be a "what not to do artical"

Just have to keep smilin!

is that enough smiling yet

Bigmeats

Carl...75 Blazer...Manhattan IL

 

[elkboy]

With my Rancho springs, I had to put in degree shims between the front spring pads and springs to get the pinion angle back in line. I think the front drive line angle is a little more forgiving than the rear because of the CV joint.I also droped the transfer case 3/4 of a inch,wich helps.

<font color=red> Elkboy</font color=red>

 

[tRustyK5]

Corey,
Would you consider a 2 1/2 degree shim excessive for the front? I seem to recall I'm not the only one that has them. In fact my truck has had them for at least 7 years. I have had to make numerous panic stops with those shims in there and it has never been an issue. Obviously a 4 degree shim is going to be more of a problem.
If BDS springs are directional, wouldn't they be marked or labelled in some way when they were new? Maybe they are in backwards, and the arch of the springs is causing more of an angularity problem for the front end. Worse yet, maybe one is in backwards and one is right. That could explain the steering wheel being off half a turn.
Carl, could you measure from the front spring hanger to the center bolt on both springs, just to make sure 1 spring is not facing the wrong way.

Rene

 

[gassman]

bigmeat, I just put BDS suspenion under my 71 blazer with the ORD shackles too. Have had no problems to speak of. Had to replace the HillFourwheel Drive shackles with ORD shackles because the front was to high. My springs came with the shims bolted too the spring package so it was not to hard to figure out what way they went in. Did yours come that way and if not maybe call BDS and ask. I know there's a difference's between the your blazer and mine but don't know why that would affect the shim situation. Hope this helps a little. Good luck.

 

[Bigmeats]

Rene,
well you hit the nail on the head with asking if i tightened everything after there was a full load on the springs.

I started over this morning by loosening everything up and then taking the weight back off the springs and retighten everything with the weight back on the springs. I just got back from a test drive and 99% of the bump steer is gone. Steering wheel is still off half a turn, and i still feel the steering is a little loose. The clanging of the driveshaft is still there at take off but does not vibrate any more at high speeds. Im just woundering if i fubared the u joints last night driving 40 miles with it out of wack. for all i know they may be the original u joints!
thanks to all for their help!!!!!!!!!

Bigmeats

Carl...75 Blazer...Manhattan IL

 

[tRustyK5]

I'm glad that most of the problem is gone. It'd probably be a good idea to swap out the U-joint if it is old anyways. If you still have a vibration with a new u-joint then maybe you might have to address the angularity problem.

Rene

 

[Grim-Reaper]

Rancho Springs in my truck came with 2.5 degree shims and the heads of the pins were long for this reason. Infact without the shim the pin bottoms out on the side that is cast into the pumpkin. Shims are the only want to correct the problem unless you go to the expense to have the pad remachined on the axle.

Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
Grim-Reaper
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/>http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/</A>

 

[BigTex]

Don't forget the easiest solution: lowering the T-case. I had some ugly vibration in my 4" lifted '79. I just lowered the T-case with the factory shims and no more vibration. Just in case you hadn't done this already, it worked great for me.

 

[BlazerBoy]

You know, you invite this guy (BigMeats) to come over, use your garage and your tools... and give him a hand. He eats all your pizza... Then whines when it when it doesnt work just right hehe Man what does this guy want?? lol Just teasin you Carl. Maybe we should write up the tech article and let some one read it who knows what they are doing huh?? By the way does anyone know if Napa makes and longer brake lines for a 75'. After the lift they reached there maximum elasticity... lol Or where else you could get them? Thanks guys for listening to the whiner.. lol later... heheh

BlazerBoy
http://generalblueballs.coloradok5.com