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Lift the IFS, or swap in a solid front axle?

PhoenixZorn

PhoenixZorn

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Ok, so this project is not anywhere close to getting started, maybe by this time next year... but what's the best way to get 35s on my Yukon?

Option #1: Get Fabtech's 6" IFS Lift kit for about $1500.00. It modifies my Short Long A arms in the front and puts a 4" block and add-a-leaf in the rear... I'd still have a 10 bolt rear, and weak ass axle shafts in the front, but I'd definitely be able to squeeze the 35s under the fenders with no problems.... maybe even 38s with some trimming and fender flares. Total cost, about $1500 plus new tires and wheels, so $2500.

Option #2: Pay $1000+ for a Solid Axle Swap kit (including necessary extras) and use my 10 bolt front end from my 86 K5, swapping in 3.42 gears for the 3.08 that's in it now.... I'll save money on the axle, and eventually need to buy a new one, but it is the most cost effective (read: cheap) option. Total cost with fab, about $1200-1500 plus tires and wheels, so $2500.

Option #3: Pay $1000+ for a Solid Axle Swap kit (including necessary extras.) Add in the cost of a used D60 front and used 14BFF rear, buy new 3.73 or 4.11 gears, depending on the use of 35s or 38s (I still want the whole 1800RPM Highway cruising, hence the tall gearing) and do it proper like. Then there's the extra cash to refinish the rear springs from the 86 to lift the front end 4", and the ~$800 to buy new 56" springs for the rear. Add in fab work, and I'm looking at about $3000 to put a Solid 1-ton running gear on this truck, which is more than half of what I paid for it... plus the cost of tires and wheels, so $4000-4500.

Option #4: Ruin the resale value of the truck entirely by doing some major fender trimming/rebuilding so I can fit 35s without a lift. Only benefits to this idea are that it's cheap, and it keeps my center of gravity low, while still raising the ground clearance by 2 inches over stock. I'd rather stay away from this idea, unless someone can show me pics of a truck that's been done like this and still looks good.

In doing this project, I'd like to keep my average mileage as close to 18-20MPG highway as I possibly can. I'd like to be able to cruise at 1800RPM at 65MPH (currently 1800RPM at 55MPH) and I'd like to keep as much of the original stability of the truck as possible.... meaning if I don't have to lift it, I'd rather keep it low and stable than high and wobbly.
 
i vote option 3. if you do something else you're not gonna be happy with the truck.

this truck like more of a cruiser than a wheeler, so i wouldn't hog out the fenders and run 35s. (even though that would look cool)

maybe you can find another yukon for cheap and hog out the fenders on it and run 35s.

after thinking about a bit more, buy a beater and wheel it. you'll have a lot more fun when you're not worrying about your "baby". :)
 
I say option 2 so you'll have a more capable vehicle quicker, and you can then wait to build your money back up to get the better axles and such. But anyway anything that involves keeping the IFS ain't gonna do in my book. IFS has no place on fullsize 4x4s IMO.
 
how about a body lift they are cheap and easy to do and will lit you fit in a larger tire with no suspension mods
another thing to thing about is that your 10 bolt will not work the diff is on the wrong side so you whould have to change the transfer case also
 
your forgetting about a tcase...
 
Inu-Hanyou1776 said:
But anyway anything that involves keeping the IFS ain't gonna do in my book. IFS has no place on fullsize 4x4s from what i have read on the internet, i have no knowledgible input.
Click to expand...

there ya go, fixed it for ya.

it really depends on what you're going to do with it as far as offroad capability of the truck. as for the "$1000+ SAS conversion kit", check out the IFS forums here on CK5. Sky Manufacturing has a kit that is in the final development stages right now. i'll be getting one of the first ones. stay tuned for more info...
 
I think that the bushwacker cutouts allow 35 inchers, and that would keep all of your truck mechanicals stock (which can mean weak, or can mean simple to repair). If you just wanna keep it a street cruiser with a little mild wheeling, I would just cut them out. Here in Michigan they normally need to be cut out to get rid of all the rust anyhow.
 
i say option 2, and think about how you want to really set up. stay clear of ifs if your really going to wheel this thing. set up right it can ride just as good as ifs. my suburban had 63 inch gm rear springs up front for the solid axle conversion with drop hangers. and the springs where only plus 2,s i had built and ended up with about 12 inches over 42,s. and exept for the crappy the tires it rode awsome.
 
SAS that thing and never look back. I've tried the body lift route on my 93, and I was always disappointed. With 33's I could knock the front end out of alignment at will. My 95 got 33's with no lift and a little trimming. This worked out better, and the truck was a K2500 with the stronger front end. If 35's are all you're after, grab a HP 44 (much cheaper than a 60, and uses your existing T case) off of a Ford and go for it. While you're at it, swap in a 14FF in the rear. With 4.10's your diesel should run fine without a gear change. Make sure the FF is open so you can detroit it. If you are patient you should be able to do the swap for under $2000.
 
if its your dd and you only hit the mud and small trails. ifs should be fine.
if you really want to wheel the hell out of 94 sheet metal rig then option 2.
just beef up the 10- bolt and it will be good up to 37's. even without beefing it up you should be fine. my friends are mud freaks and they put 40's and 42's on 10 bolts and none of them have had serious problems. but i think they are just lucky. option 3 is just crazy if your only running 35's. but then you know you would have a dependable ride. really dependable on the trails.
 
muddybuddy said:
got any pics of ur rig?
Click to expand...

I suppose I did promise pics a few days ago... I'll get a few tomorrow... tried just now, but there is no light anywhere near the truck, so the pics look like crap.
 
Keep it stock! Buy a $500 mid 70's beater slap on a cheapo 4" lift sawsall the finders and slap on some 35's. Much cheaper option............
 
If you go option #1 substitute the "Fabtech" for "RCD". Much better parts. Desert race chase trucks predominently use RCD stuff when they use any off the shelf stuff at all.
 
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