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lift troubles...ARRRRRRRRGGGHHHHHHHHHHHH *updated progess pics*

78Suburban

78Suburban

1/2 ton status
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Has anybody else had a heck of a time getting their front lift springs on? The old ones came off pretty easy, but it seems like when I jack the front of the truck up, the frame twists around in such a way that I can't get both spring eyes to bolt in at the same time. The axle was also cocking up at an odd angle. Me and a buddy wrestled with it for hours, and its been a heck of a frusterating day. I think I need to disconnect my front driveshaft and install my extended brake lines, and maybe then I'll be able to roll the axle around and make everything line up. Any tips on making life easier when doing the lift would be much appreciated.

I'm doing 4" RC fronts with 1" zero rates, not moving the axle from stock location.

Also, I've heard I need to clearance grind some tabs on my front shaft. Is this where it connects to the axle, or back at the t-case?

Any tips or tricks would be awsome. Has anyone else had as much trouble with this as me, or am I the only one that has had some difficulties?

thanks,
James
 
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take your u-bolts off and just install the springs then jack the axle up to the springs it will be alot easier
 
yellowK20 said:
take your u-bolts off and just install the springs then jack the axle up to the springs it will be alot easier
Click to expand...

x2 on this.

This is what I had to do as the same thing happened to me.
 
yellowK20 said:
take your u-bolts off and just install the springs then jack the axle up to the springs it will be alot easier
Click to expand...

X3 I did it this way and once we got the axle close I still had to wrestle with the springs to get them to sit down on the pads properly i.e. the spring bolts into the hole in the spring pad.

Ira
 
me and my uncle loosened up the top shackel bolt and then everything got alot easyer, we couldnt get the bolts 2 line up
 
Yep, it's heinous. Ya know, it's a GREAT IDEA to pull your truck *halfway* out of the garage when doing the front axle, so you can't close the door until you get the project done, particularly when it's dark, and cold, and late, and you are alone and shuffling an axle around on a coupla furniture dollies and swearing up a storm and ...

oh. Huh?

Yeah, it's a PITA. If it were me, I'd put stands under the frame on all four corners, then wrestle the springs on, one at a time, then do the axle.

It sucks, but it's worth it when you're done. That's what I kept telling myself, especially when I had all the fun with the 52"s and kept dropping them on and off to tune them.

-- A
 
take your u-bolts off and just install the springs then jack the axle up to the springs it will be alot easier
Click to expand...

X4...This is how I put all my front springs on too. I have two special 4-foot tall jack stands, which I put under the frame, just behind the leaf springs. Then I have three floor jacks for the job of removing a differential. After I unbolt the U-Bolts, I lower the diff with the floor jacks, which are placed on each end of the diff, and in the center where the drive shaft yoke is because a diff has the prepensity to roll forward due to the wieght of the pinion gear.
 
quote=1-ton]X4...This is how I put all my front springs on too. I have two special 4-foot tall jack stands, which I put under the frame, just behind the leaf springs. Then I have three floor jacks for the job of removing a differential. After I unbolt the U-Bolts, I lower the diff with the floor jacks, which are placed on each end of the diff, and in the center where the drive shaft yoke is because a diff has the prepensity to roll forward becuase of the wieght of the pinion gear.[/quote]

This is not entirely true. Diffs will go where you LEAST want them to, sometimes forward and sometimes back onto your toes, so as to be maximally irritating. :D

-- A
 
This is not entirely true. Diffs will go where you LEAST want them to, sometimes forward and sometimes back onto your toes, so as to be maximally irritating. :D
Click to expand...

:haha: :haha: :haha: Dana-60's and 14-Bolts are some heavy SOB's. I know I have had a couple of scary moments, in where I was wreslting with them, and thought my differential was going to drop onto my drive way with a crunching thud.
 
as far as the drive shaft goes, try it on once you get the springs on and check the fit, if it does bind you need to cut the tabs on the c/v side (t-case side)
 
Man, this sucks badly... I laid down to get some sleep at 11:30, and now its 3:40!!! haven't gotten even one second of sleep. I've just been laying here aching, tossing, and turning with visions of wrestling axles and beat out old bolts in my head.. AAAHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!! :(
 
you'll get there....... just get some rest and wake up pissed off and determined to get your truck put back together in the morning

The learning curve can be very painful sometimes
 
I would never have thought to put the springs on with the axle attached. Seems kind of crazy to me.
It's way easy when you're just lifting the spring in there
 
Most definitely easier to install the springs and lift the axle to them. You'll have to disconnect your brake lines first though to gain enough room to get those spring in and out.

Don't get too frustrated yet. You still have to crack open the bleeders on your cailper. Save some of anger for them when they snap right off and set you back more money and another day.
 
Yep, springs first. Disco the sway bar if you haven't already. D-shaft no matter. My front still wanted to go to the rear. I used a car bumper jack hooked in/around the knuckle with the foot up against the body mount at the door hinge. Click, click, thump into the hole.:D
 
yellowK20 said:
take your u-bolts off and just install the springs then jack the axle up to the springs it will be alot easier
Click to expand...
X eleventy....I had a tough time lining up the center pins but I just used a couple ratchet straps to help line things up.....................(My frame isnt the straitest though)
 
Chaddy said:
..........(My frame isnt the straitest though)
Click to expand...

I've got a sneaking suspicion that this may be the case for me. I think the major problem I was having is the brake lines were completely stretched tight, and that simply was not leaving me enough room to get those springs in there, since they're arched so much. I guess I'll have to put the new brake lines on, when they arrive in the mail.

thanks,
James
 
my progress

well, I woke up this morning refreshed and ready to work. My buddy wasn't over yet, but I was able to jack the front of the truck up enough to bolt in both front springs. Then after I had taken these pics we were able to wrestle it around enough to let the center pins start to sit on the holes in the perches, and I now just have to put the u bolts on. I have one u bolt through each spring plate. I'm trying to reuse the u bolts because they have low miles on them, but they are kinda hard to line up through the spring plate holes. I did have one of them made at the spring shop, and I'm considering getting them to make the other 3 from scratch too.

I also noticed that the hole in the spring perch is about the same size as the bottom of my 3/8" center pin. I suppose the soft metal on the pin will be forced into that hole when I torque the u bolts down?

Anyway, I've made encouraging progess today, and I'm well on the way to being done with the front of the lift.

liftfront5.jpg


liftfront4.jpg


liftfront3.jpg


liftfront2.jpg


liftfront1.jpg


Isn't that the most beautiful death trap you've ever seen :eek1: :waytogo:
 
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